End of Times - What flashlights will you bring?

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Ra Twisty, Ra Clicky, Fenix E01, and a Photon light, since all of these would be with me anyway. Of course, the locator beacon would be turned on, so as to leave a good looking, blinking corpse.
 
Surefire Shotgun Forend Weapon Light, Surefire M900A Vert-Grip Weapons light modded with a LF D36 LED module, and an X300...:devil:

All mounted to EXACTLY what they are made for 😀.

Oh yeah and My M2 Combat Light w/ Malkoff M60 and bored out 18650 C2 Centurion w/ Malkoff M30...
 
Since these type of threads about end of times and nuclear winter seem to turn into discussions about guns, ammo, bunkers and survival gear, I'll go ahead and say it: you don't need to bring anything but the firepower to TAKE what you need. :xyxgun:

Come and take it from my house. :shakehead
 
Now this is what I've always thought of CR123 lights. Take it for what you will. There are not very many CR123 battery powered devices in the hands of the general public. In fact, they are probably in the great minority when compared to AA, AAA, C, D, etc. So, while they are less common, and usually more expensive (due to higher manufacturing costs, and supply and demand), in an emergency situation where people are suddenly demanding common batteries, such as hurricanes, etc., common batteries may be harder to find than CR123's, which very few people tend to use.

Just a thought.


Now, as for lights, I know I've posted before, but I'll do it again. I see four main needs in regards to lighting in a TEOTWAWKI/EoTW situation.

1) a low output, efficient headlamp, powered by common batteries that will have a long, unregulated run time. A number of headlamps powered by three AAA batteries, from Petzl, Princeton tec, etc. fit this need.
2) a low output, efficient compact flashlight that will use a multitude of common batteries (different cell chemistries including rechargeable Ni-MH, Li primary, alkaline). This is your main light, to be used in front of other people, that way they won't say "hey, I like that, don't have one, and want it." Several models are available from Peak that fit this ideal, as well as the Fenix E01, which has proven very durable.
You may even wish to stock multiple's of this, as they would be good "good-will" gifts to any potentially hostile persons you may meet, especially if you meet them in the dark.
3) a multi-mode light, either user programmable for output, or selectable through various UI's. It should also be able to run on a multitude of cells (by changing battery tubes) including alkaline at lower outputs, Ni-MH, Lithium primaries or rechargeable's.
If you prefer the most durable light around, I would suggest a Ra or Surefire Light, as both manufacturers produce quality lights that can handle a beating. However, neither offers AA power options, so perhaps something along the lines of a Quark or Fenix/Nitecore/Jetbeam might be more preferred.
4) a weapon light, mounted on the boom-stick of your choice. This should preferably be of neutral/warm output LED. Efficiency won't be as good, and neither will output, but being able to differentiate between things more than 50 feet away is never a bad thing. This will probably require a specialized battery, such as CR123's, to be compact yet powerful.

Also, maintaining a supply of batteries on your person is a good idea. Keep2Go tubes seem durable, and are an apparently good way to store 4 CR123/2AA, etc. batteries in a relatively compact water proof compartment. A Pelican case may be more preferable to keep large quantities of batteries, though, as the larger models will also be able to secure a solar charger as well as a large supply of primary and rechargeable batteries, and backup lighting instruments.

Also, as JSlappa pointed out, EMP may not necessarily be as damaging to relatively small flashlights as some think. But it never hurts to have backups. I'm going to do a little research on EMP sheilding, and report back.:shrug:
 
in an emergency situation where people are suddenly demanding common batteries, such as hurricanes, etc., common batteries may be harder to find than CR123's, which very few people tend to use.

Just a thought.

That is a possibility, and certainly something to consider. I've discussed battery availability with some people who have experienced extended outages, including Katrina, and they indicated that AA and D batteries were the first batteries to become depleted from store inventories. In these discussions, C and AAA cells were mentioned as the most available. I don't think C cells are as commonly used in the general public as they used to be, so it would follow that they would be more available, similar to your reasoning with CR123.

However, I think a few other variables should be considered. For instance, location. In my area (rural), you can't just go to the local gas station and find CR123 batteries. You must source them at a dept. store, electronics store or pharmacy. You can always find alkalines at the corner gas station. Another consideration should be those devices that are commonly used in the general public, and what batteries are in them. There are all types of devices around most houses, many of which are useless in a SHTF situation, that contain partially depleted alkaline cells that I can use in my flashlights. For the general population, you can't say the same for CR123.
 
Now, as for lights, I know I've posted before, but I'll do it again. I see four main needs in regards to lighting in a TEOTWAWKI/EoTW situation.

1) a low output, efficient headlamp, powered by common batteries that will have a long, unregulated run time. A number of headlamps powered by three AAA batteries, from Petzl, Princeton tec, etc. fit this need.
2) a low output, efficient compact flashlight that will use a multitude of common batteries (different cell chemistries including rechargeable Ni-MH, Li primary, alkaline). This is your main light, to be used in front of other people, that way they won't say "hey, I like that, don't have one, and want it." Several models are available from Peak that fit this ideal, as well as the Fenix E01, which has proven very durable.
You may even wish to stock multiple's of this, as they would be good "good-will" gifts to any potentially hostile persons you may meet, especially if you meet them in the dark.

If someone is hostile toward me during a SHTF event, is looking to get things to survive, and is willing to use force to get them, why would I want to lose the only advantage I have over them? Personally, I would not want to give any potentially hostile person the ability to more easily attack me for my supplies at night. They may want more than flashlights. They could try to take all your supplies, use or sell your kids as slaves, pursue relations with your wife or daughters, and kill you for trying to stop them. I'd use the advantage of being able to see at night to get myself and my family away from them while I could. Here's some words of wisdom from a children's book. "If you give a mouse a cookie, he's going to want a glass of milk."
 
Z3T/MN16, U2A and E1B with a brick of primaries..

Wifey will get the C2L, kids will get the 6P's :thumbsup:



That reminds me, i need to order a brick of primaries...:sick2:
 
Quark AA Tac, cause it can use AA's I salvage and the lithium primaries that I have stored with the food I store.
 
If someone is hostile toward me during a SHTF event, is looking to get things to survive, and is willing to use force to get them, why would I want to lose the only advantage I have over them? Personally, I would not want to give any potentially hostile person the ability to more easily attack me for my supplies at night. They may want more than flashlights. They could try to take all your supplies, use or sell your kids as slaves, pursue relations with your wife or daughters, and kill you for trying to stop them. I'd use the advantage of being able to see at night to get myself and my family away from them while I could. Here's some words of wisdom from a children's book. "If you give a mouse a cookie, he's going to want a glass of milk."

This is also true. I was thinking from more of the "I came across this armed person. He could be my best friend or my worst nightmare. Let's try to be friends first, but be prepared to deal with the whole "You gave me a cookie, I want a glass of milk" syndrome."
My $0.02

But, in a PAW situation, you really shouldn't be moving around unless you absolutely have to. Be prepared to meet people who find you. That sort of thing.
 
The EOT/SHTF thread

Well, I would carry around a Taurus Judge 6.5" barrel revolver loaded with .410 00 shotgun shells alternating with squirrel shot and .45 LR slugs. Mount a weapon light on it, a Peak SR2000 for a blinding wall of light.

Around my neck on a lanyard, a single AAA white light running whatever AAA I have at the moment. Wrapped in rubber on the same lanyard (for quiet) is a Peak Matterhorn AAA with a red LED so I will be hard to see at a distance.

On my side in a 9mm ammo holster, my Leatherman Charge Ti with bit kits, extensions, Gerber little crowbar/exacto knife gizmo (love it!), 4" adjustable wrench and Fisher space pen. It will contain my EDC NiteCore D10 since I need to vary the amount of light needed.

In my cargo pants pocket, a Peak AA with five 365 nM UV LEDs so I can check for scorpions in my bedding.

I guess I could build an end of the world light, something that will run on AAA/AA/C/D/CR123A/18650 laptop cells. I'll take a 2D Mag, put a post heat sink in it, lexan unbreakable lens, premium o-rings, strike bezel and direct drive a Cree XP-G LED. Since the Cree will run 350mA and 140 lumens at 3.0 volts, 3.4 lumens at 2.58 and 10mA volts it should run weeks on 2 D alkies. No regulators to break or eat power. If it gets soaked with water, dry it out and reload new batteries and press on. LED, wire, switch and a battery or two...

Guess I would have to build the ultra-long runtime lantern. Take 24 CR123A lithiums and put them all in parallel for a 3.0V 36 amp hour pack. Put a single 5mm LED on it that will run around 15mA at 3 volts. This will give 2400 hours of light or used 4 hours per night, around 1.5 years of use. Consider that as the mega pack discharges, the LED will pull less current so it will be usable for about 3 to 5 years. Another way to make the lantern is a Pelican case, wire the batteries with springs, F4 tape and some solder. Drill a small hole to poke the 5mm LED through and seal it with RTV.
 
Those who will be shining around their flashlights at night = easy source of BATTERIES for those with NV goggles + rifle + scope.
 
Led Lenser P7 because it will be easier to find AAA cells then some plug to charge li ion cells.
And also because of its power and runtime (no regulation so not left it the dark).

And if I could not bring the P7 a Nitecore D10 would be also great... and a L0D.

The rest that uses only "special" cells would not be a good idea I think.
 
if it happened......
i think i'll take all my flashligt (which are only 4, Nitecore D10, Nitecore NDI, Olight I15, n the newest Jetbeam RRT-0). all use 1xAA 😗
 
Must haves:

LX2- my general use light

E1B- 123 drainer (I have dozens of almost dead 123s that work on low mode for hours)

C2 M60- Paired with my Glock 22

Mini-mag Rebel- AA batts are commonplace

E2L- Decent brightness and long running

If possible:

E2DL -Teeth and tailstand

G2 Incan- EMP proof (just in case)

6PL -Long runtime
 
What a silly thread. Light up that flashlight, you may see a small flash from a flash suppressor.
Food
Water
Shelter
First aid kit
Firepower, and lots of it.
 
Well, I think you would want raw runtime.

I'd go with a 3d or 4d Maglite with a Niteize 10mm drop in. This would give about 70 hours of straight runtime. I think the batteries would self discharge before you even use them completely!
 
Also, at what point after WTSHITF are you talking?

Are you talking right after, or a year or two?

The farther along it is the calmer everything will be.

If it's right after, I'd carry a 22LR and a 357mag revolver.
 
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