Energizer Advanced Lithium cells - FAIL

sidecross

sidecross

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I never shop for price on my batteries and I use Energizer lithium AA, Surefire 123, and the new (for me) Eagletac li-ion 18650 3100 mAh batteries.

I try to buy from reputable sources that will back up a problem.

I do the same thing; this is a part of 'light security' where quality trumps price.
 
J

jayflash

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About two years ago I posted that the newest Eveready Lithiums had less discharge current than the previous packs - alkies were better. High storage temp may affect storage life, but these were very fresh according to the date, so I'm thinking a production change happened.
 
I

ikanode

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When I have to replace batteries (2 AA per keypad), the most common failure is just as you have described - one cell at near 0 volts, the other cell is just fine.
Same thing with me but only in the last few months. Failure of just one cell after a month or two of light use in TV Remotes or LED headlamps that were used for less than an hour.
 
thermal guy

thermal guy

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Wow guess Quality hasn’t improved in 10 years?!!
 
Deluminator

Deluminator

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Two things that are interesting about checking the OCV (Open Circuit Voltage) on LiFeS2 (lithium primary cells):

1. A cell with an OCV less than 1.70 volts is dead. (A good cell will have an OCV greater than 1.74 volts. New cells are usually 1.79 to 1.83 volts.)

2. If a cell has been used, the OCV slowly rises after it is taken out of a circuit. If you measure anything less than 1.74 volts, wait a while and measure again. When the voltage stops changing, that's the value that reflects the actual cell condition.

There is plenty of interesting reading in the Energizer Lithium Iron Disulfide Handbook and Application Manual. An excerpt:

"Although the higher OCV of the LiFeS2 system is 1.8 volts, the nominal or rated voltage is 1.5 volts which makes it a suitable replacement for alkaline and nickel systems. The battery voltage will drop when it is placed under load. For this reason, the higher OCV will typically not damage electronic components, but device designers should take into consideration that the OCV of fresh batteries can range from 1.79 to 1.83V. LiFeS2 batteries fully meet the ANSI specification for a 1.5V battery. When a drain has been applied to the battery, the OCV drops dramatically and then slowly recovers with time. The OCV for a battery can be misleading. A "good" battery will generally have an OCV >1.74 volts. Any battery with an OCV <1.70 (after it has been allowed to recover) is completely discharged. Although an alkaline battery may read "good" at 1.6 volts, this reading on a LiFeS2 battery indicates the product has been discharged."

Also see Monty Python and the Holy Grail: "I'm not dead."
 
kerneldrop

kerneldrop

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@Deluminator - Did someone hack your account and make a post? :)
 
Lynx_Arc

Lynx_Arc

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Two things that are interesting about checking the OCV (Open Circuit Voltage) on LiFeS2 (lithium primary cells):

1. A cell with an OCV less than 1.70 volts is dead. (A good cell will have an OCV greater than 1.74 volts. New cells are usually 1.79 to 1.83 volts.)

2. If a cell has been used, the OCV slowly rises after it is taken out of a circuit. If you measure anything less than 1.74 volts, wait a while and measure again. When the voltage stops changing, that's the value that reflects the actual cell condition.

There is plenty of interesting reading in the Energizer Lithium Iron Disulfide Handbook and Application Manual. An excerpt:

"Although the higher OCV of the LiFeS2 system is 1.8 volts, the nominal or rated voltage is 1.5 volts which makes it a suitable replacement for alkaline and nickel systems. The battery voltage will drop when it is placed under load. For this reason, the higher OCV will typically not damage electronic components, but device designers should take into consideration that the OCV of fresh batteries can range from 1.79 to 1.83V. LiFeS2 batteries fully meet the ANSI specification for a 1.5V battery. When a drain has been applied to the battery, the OCV drops dramatically and then slowly recovers with time. The OCV for a battery can be misleading. A "good" battery will generally have an OCV >1.74 volts. Any battery with an OCV <1.70 (after it has been allowed to recover) is completely discharged. Although an alkaline battery may read "good" at 1.6 volts, this reading on a LiFeS2 battery indicates the product has been discharged."

Also see Monty Python and the Holy Grail: "I'm not dead."
That falls in line with what I've seen as "dead' batteries (or ones with less than 10% remaining IMO tend to measure around 1.68v after resting which good ones measure 1.78V or higher and unused ones even after years of sitting on a shelf measure 1.80v or higher but I haven't seen any measure more than 1.82v and that high of a voltage is rare for them to be at. I've used batteries measuring less than 1.7v and they will continue to work in very low drain devices even at 1.5v they will work in remotes still but when you have problems with them a quick measure of the working voltage will reveal that they drop way down below even 1.0v and if they even recover any it is very slow and very little essentially mimicking alkalines that are dead. I use the AAAs in an outdoor thermometer remote and it stopped working when and I immediately checked the voltage and got about 0.7v and 0.5v on the two batteries. I need to use them as when temps drop below 20 degrees alkalines that aren't pretty full in capacity tend to drop way down in power and the sensor shuts off till it warms them up again.
 

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