Engine oil recommendation

Wurkkos

markr6

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Good choices, you'll be right as rain. And have a lot less mess too. Sometimes those quicklube places have some real dingalings working for them. :duh:

LOL yeah. I've been going to a well-know service/repair shop, but still get the usual 17 year old Jiffy Lube rush job employee I guess. Plus my Jeep has the stupidest design ever. The cutout in the oil pan liner for the oil to drain thru seems to small. When you pull the plug, the pressure from the oil flowing out shoots beyond the cutout. So it makes a huge mess; oil dripping from even hole in that liner. Maybe I'm doing something wrong. Maybe the one time I did it I had it jacked up too high.
 

chazz

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I always have it done around 3200mi. If I can safely squeeze more mileage out of it using synthetic, I would be fine paying more. Meijer has the Mobil 1 synthetic for 26.99 (5qt).

What interval does your owners manual recommend? It's my opinion that the 3k mile oil changes are a waste of time and money, (unless you are dealing with some seriously extreme conditions, i.e. really dusty, hard towing, etc. even then it seems too often) I am guessing your recommended interval is closer to double that or more. And that is based on dino oil (non synthetic).

I use at least OEM quality (preferably better) oil filters, and air filters, usually OEM are pretty good for air filters (which are just as important as changing your oil)

I have been a fan of good quality synthetics for years, I think Amsoil is one of the best but I often run Mobil 1 extended since it is so much easier to buy. (I know, I know...)

Synthetics flow much better at really cold temps also, in other words the engine gets oil pressure faster on startup (which is a good thing).

If you want to test that, get a quart of each and put them in your freezer overnight and then pour them out into a diff container. I once tried pouring some dino 20w50 at -25F (-31C), LOL.

I know a guy that runs mobil one synthetic AND changes his oil every 3k miles, I just shook my head... :)
 
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FlashKat

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It does not hurt to switch from conventional to synthetic. Synthetic holds up better😃


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nbp

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LOL yeah. I've been going to a well-know service/repair shop, but still get the usual 17 year old Jiffy Lube rush job employee I guess. Plus my Jeep has the stupidest design ever. The cutout in the oil pan liner for the oil to drain thru seems to small. When you pull the plug, the pressure from the oil flowing out shoots beyond the cutout. So it makes a huge mess; oil dripping from even hole in that liner. Maybe I'm doing something wrong. Maybe the one time I did it I had it jacked up too high.

My dad has a Sierra 2500 HD and it has a similar stupid design. Draining the oil causes it to run all over the stock skid plate and make a horrible mess. You have to take a piece of scrap cardboard and make a trough to guide it down to your pan or bucket. It's insane and I hate doing it.

On the other hand my Sonoma has the filter mounted vertically on the very bottom of the motor and it is a total breeze to drain and clean up.

My Accord is somewhere in between. The filter is horizontal on the back of the motor. It's not terrible to get to but it does dribble down the back of the motor and on the sway bar so I have to do some wiping.

I really wish engineers could consider how the motor will be maintained when they design it. Considering a car will need 50+ oil changes in its life it would be nice if they made it simpler and cleaner.
 

gofastman

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Imo, it's pretty hard to get a bad oil these days, provided it meets viscosity and service specifications for your engine.

Your jeeps engine isn't the type of design that puts a particularly high strain on its oil.

Get a good filter! That is very, very important! Personally I like Napa Platinums. Napa gold/Wix (same thing), Purolator pure one, and mobile one are good choices too.

I don't think I have ever seen high mileage 5W20.

I really like synthetic oil for extreme climate conditions.

Go by the manufacturer recommended oil change interval for SEVERE SERVICE. It's much more realistic for 75% of vehicles out there.
 

gofastman

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LOL yeah. I've been going to a well-know service/repair shop, but still get the usual 17 year old Jiffy Lube rush job employee I guess. Plus my Jeep has the stupidest design ever. The cutout in the oil pan liner for the oil to drain thru seems to small. When you pull the plug, the pressure from the oil flowing out shoots beyond the cutout. So it makes a huge mess; oil dripping from even hole in that liner. Maybe I'm doing something wrong. Maybe the one time I did it I had it jacked up too high.

If you drain the oil when the engine is cool, it will come out much slower
 

Julian Holtz

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I have heard switching from conventional to synthetic after the car has run conventional for an extended period can cause problems, so I have always stuck with conventional. Is there any fact based findings to back that up?[]

Well, synthetic oils are usually more agressive against all kinds of crud that has accumulated in an engine. If flakes of said crud come loose and block some oil ports, this can lead to problems. Also, this crud sometimes can keep the engine from leaking, so when it is removed, well, suddenly your engine leaks.

I personally like 10W40 LIQUI MOLY MoS2 oil. I also use their MoS2 additive in the transmission. But I drive a 1,6l VW Passat from `89, and a cheap Baotian 49cc scooter so that may be a difference to your american big block automatics.
 

orbital

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+

5/30 Valvoline Max Life in my older Jeep > it's a synthetic blend
some other stuff I only use full synthetic

synthetic blends are the best value.
 

cland72

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I have done my own oil changes since 2008, and I run Mobil 1 High Mileage with a Wix filter. If you buy it in the 5 quart jugs, you'll spend approx $25 per jug, and $6-7 per filter. With your Jeep, you probably need 6 quarts, which means you'll spend approx $37 per oil change if you run good oil with a good filter. Chances are your $22 oil change is the cheapest conventional oil they can buy, with the cheapest, lousiest filters money can buy.

My wife's 2004 JGC has 130,000+ miles on it with no engine issues (I've run M1HM since 95k).

My 2005 Yukon has 127,000+ miles on it with no engine issues (I've run M1HM since 75k).
 

markr6

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I have done my own oil changes since 2008, and I run Mobil 1 High Mileage with a Wix filter. If you buy it in the 5 quart jugs, you'll spend approx $25 per jug, and $6-7 per filter. With your Jeep, you probably need 6 quarts, which means you'll spend approx $37 per oil change if you run good oil with a good filter. Chances are your $22 oil change is the cheapest conventional oil they can buy, with the cheapest, lousiest filters money can buy.

They say they use Mobil 1. But the filter, I don't know. I didn't change mine yet but I looked in there and noticed it was about 1/2 the size of the Purolator I just bought! It's a short blue one, I believe an AC Delco.

My friend was telling me synthetic would be a waste, at least for my type of driving (not racing or anything like he does). He said the oil life has more to do with the addatives in the oil breaking down; so synthetic won't necessarily let me extend the life. Either way, I will start pushing it a bit more - not exactly 3000mi anymore.
 

cland72

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They say they use Mobil 1. But the filter, I don't know. I didn't change mine yet but I looked in there and noticed it was about 1/2 the size of the Purolator I just bought! It's a short blue one, I believe an AC Delco.

My friend was telling me synthetic would be a waste, at least for my type of driving (not racing or anything like he does). He said the oil life has more to do with the addatives in the oil breaking down; so synthetic won't necessarily let me extend the life. Either way, I will start pushing it a bit more - not exactly 3000mi anymore.

For $22, I highly doubt they use Mobil 1 full synthetic. They probably aren't even using a blend at that price. My guess is they aren't being honest with you (either that, or there was a miscommunication).
 

markr6

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For $22, I highly doubt they use Mobil 1 full synthetic. They probably aren't even using a blend at that price. My guess is they aren't being honest with you (either that, or there was a miscommunication).

I'll have to check some time. I thought I remember seeing the Mobile 1 marketing by the oil change area pricing, but I could be wrong.
 

smokinbasser

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If you are going to do your own oil changes do yourself a favor and buy one of the big "Depends" for vehicles. they are lined with basically kitty litter with a impervious bottom layer, you position it under the engine area and it catches all the drips and leaves the floor pristine. I WAS using Mobil 1 until my SUV got totaled. Once I get some miles on my new vehicle I will once again go with Mobil 1!!!
 

FlashKat

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I would go with a good brand high mileage synthetic oil with a good oil filter.
Conventional oil gets thick and sludgy after a short time which is not good protection.
Newer cars use synthetic for a reason which protects better.
I grew up with conventional oil and did a lot of research before switching to synthetic oil.
Like I mentioned before I have over 220,000 miles on a 4 cylinder, and still runs like a champ.
They say they use Mobil 1. But the filter, I don't know. I didn't change mine yet but I looked in there and noticed it was about 1/2 the size of the Purolator I just bought! It's a short blue one, I believe an AC Delco.

My friend was telling me synthetic would be a waste, at least for my type of driving (not racing or anything like he does). He said the oil life has more to do with the addatives in the oil breaking down; so synthetic won't necessarily let me extend the life. Either way, I will start pushing it a bit more - not exactly 3000mi anymore.
 

turbodog

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Oil brand, viscosity, and change intervals are always hot topics rife with personal slants and misinformation.

Now that I've pissed you off, here's some useful advice.

I used to be a 3k change person. However, I noticed the (much) higher change intervals in my new(er) vehicles. Wife's accord says 7500, and my truck says 10k. I though 'wow... I don't know about 10k, but maybe 3k is too often'.

Did a good bit of reading on 'bob is the oil guy (BITOG)' website. Started pulling oil samples and having them tested. Turns out that oil life ends PRIMARILY because the additive package is exhausted. A person did a test on BITOG and made just under 20k miles on a single oil change, while staying in the 'green' on oil tests. They simply drained a cup every 1k miles and topped off.

I handle IT work for a monster car dealership, the kind that carries bmw, infinity, gmc, chevy, toyota, and lexus. The techs are doing engine swaps all the time for sludged-up engines.

The #1 cause of that is not running your engine long enough to heat the OIL (not just the coolant) and boil off the water and dissolved gasoline it contains. This, coupled with 10-20k change intervals on luxury vehicles, is a recipe for engine problems.

And yes, any properly rated oil will lubricate and cool your engine just fine (oil has a major cooling job for areas inside the engine). Most ANY oil will have NO trouble going 5k miles under practically any condition. Got a BMW with a 12 quart pan and travel long highway miles in hot weather? Welcome to the 10k+ change interval club! Anyone else... just change it at 5k and don't worry about it.

The worst are the luxury cars with big oil pans that are driven around town for 5-10 miles. They sludge like crazy.

If you really want to know (and quit guessing), pull a sample and have blackstone labs test it. They will tell you how YOUR sample compares to all OTHER engines in the same vehicle.

The mfgs change intervals are a blend of marketing (low maintenance costs/buy now!!!) and warranty expectations.
 

Tm98

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I had an 05 Grand also. What I did was take the plastic skid plate off before the oil change. It is 4 bolts. If I remember correctly the front two you don't have to take all the way out because the holes are slotted. It makes it much easier. I also thought it was 5w-30 for the oil. I ran Amsoil from about 10,000 until we sold it.
 

cland72

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I had an 05 Grand also. What I did was take the plastic skid plate off before the oil change. It is 4 bolts. If I remember correctly the front two you don't have to take all the way out because the holes are slotted. It makes it much easier. I also thought it was 5w-30 for the oil. I ran Amsoil from about 10,000 until we sold it.

What motor? Must've been the V8 because my wife's has the 4.0L and the oil filter is on the side of the motor. It is relatively easy/clean to remove and drain the oil filter.
 

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