Marko
Newly Enlightened
Does anyone have exploded view of d-cell maglite ?
Exploded view of MagLite D-cell ?
- Thread starter Marko
- Start date
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artar
Enlightened
Marko
Newly Enlightened
Thanks, ghost, but seems that it didn't solve my problem yet: How to remove power switch unit ?
Batteries has leaked out, and I need to remove power switch unit, so I could try to push batteries out throught the housing with somekind of bar or stick. Any suggestions ?
Batteries has leaked out, and I need to remove power switch unit, so I could try to push batteries out throught the housing with somekind of bar or stick. Any suggestions ?
Deuce
Newly Enlightened
See this link. http://www.maglite.com/product_anatomy.asp?psc=2DCELL
I believe the switch assembly goes in/out the same way the batteries do on the D Cell lights. So you would have to get the batteries out to remove the switch. Then you would apparently need a special tool to unscrew the switch assembly. I'm not sure.
I had this problem a few years ago. I removed the battery cap and then slammed the open end of the tube onto a wood block. The inertia slowly worked the stuck battery down to the end. It losened it up enough so I could pull it out. I was lucky. Only the battery on the end had leaked. I was able to remove the corrosion with a Dremel tool. I then used baking soda to neutralize the acid. After applying new lubrication to the threads and new batteries, it has worked fine since. Mine had not leaked into the switch so I did not remove it.
I believe the switch assembly goes in/out the same way the batteries do on the D Cell lights. So you would have to get the batteries out to remove the switch. Then you would apparently need a special tool to unscrew the switch assembly. I'm not sure.
I had this problem a few years ago. I removed the battery cap and then slammed the open end of the tube onto a wood block. The inertia slowly worked the stuck battery down to the end. It losened it up enough so I could pull it out. I was lucky. Only the battery on the end had leaked. I was able to remove the corrosion with a Dremel tool. I then used baking soda to neutralize the acid. After applying new lubrication to the threads and new batteries, it has worked fine since. Mine had not leaked into the switch so I did not remove it.
Velcro
Enlightened
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Deuce:
[QB]See this link. http://www.maglite.com/product_anatomy.asp?psc=2DCELL<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Deuce, I get "Error 404 Not Found" with that URL.
Greetings,
Velcro
[QB]See this link. http://www.maglite.com/product_anatomy.asp?psc=2DCELL<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Deuce, I get "Error 404 Not Found" with that URL.
Greetings,
Velcro
Deuce
Newly Enlightened
The link is working fine for me. If you are still having problems, do a search for Maglite.com and just look there. It is found in "specifications".
e=mc²
Enlightened
Here, have a look at this: http://www.orderoutdoors.com/msr_2.html
I used these instructions and they worked floorlessly. (Flaw is how us New Yawkiz tawk the woid floor.)
Regards,
Ed
I used these instructions and they worked floorlessly. (Flaw is how us New Yawkiz tawk the woid floor.)
Regards,
Ed
Marko
Newly Enlightened
Thanks !
I think that those pictures and instructions will solve the problem.
-Marko
I think that those pictures and instructions will solve the problem.
-Marko
Velcro
Enlightened
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Deuce:
The link is working fine for me. If you are still having problems, do a search for Maglite.com and just look there. It is found in "specifications".<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Sorry Deuce, my fault. I didn't click on the 'refresh' button of my browser because I was still under the impression that the Mag site was under construction.
Greetings,
Velcro
The link is working fine for me. If you are still having problems, do a search for Maglite.com and just look there. It is found in "specifications".<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Sorry Deuce, my fault. I didn't click on the 'refresh' button of my browser because I was still under the impression that the Mag site was under construction.
Greetings,
Velcro
kb0rrg
Enlightened
Check out: http://www.tannersstorefront.com/magparts.htm
They sell the spanner wrench to remove the switch. About $9 + s&H.
They sell the spanner wrench to remove the switch. About $9 + s&H.
lightlover
Flashlight Enthusiast
Marko,
I had a severely leaked battery in a friends 3D, the furthermost battery, at the switch end.
It was set like concrete - I removed most of the centre, but couldn't remove the sides.
Sent it back to the distributor, via my local Electricals shop, and they FIXED IT FREE OF CHARGE.
The older Mag-Lites I have seen use an 'expanding circlip' style switch-unit retaining ring, at the head end, which I believe means that the switch unit comes out of the head end.
I've tried to remove it, and I would say it's near impossible, can't even imagine what tool would make it easy. The only idea I had was to break it using a drill, but where would that leave you ......
Jahn
I had a severely leaked battery in a friends 3D, the furthermost battery, at the switch end.
It was set like concrete - I removed most of the centre, but couldn't remove the sides.
Sent it back to the distributor, via my local Electricals shop, and they FIXED IT FREE OF CHARGE.
The older Mag-Lites I have seen use an 'expanding circlip' style switch-unit retaining ring, at the head end, which I believe means that the switch unit comes out of the head end.
I've tried to remove it, and I would say it's near impossible, can't even imagine what tool would make it easy. The only idea I had was to break it using a drill, but where would that leave you ......
Jahn
D
**DONOTDELETE**
Guest
About 10 years ago, Mag Light changed their flashlights. The diameter of the barrel was reduced, and the switch was redesigned.
The old style is identified by a larger font of the serial number, about 3/16". The newer style is identified by a smaller font of the serial number, about 1/8", and a 'C' or 'D' preceeding the serial number. The old style takes a special wrench to remove the switch; the new style just requires an allen wrench; after loosening the switch screw, the entire switch slides out the front of the tube.
The switches are NOT interchangeable.
Hope this helps, Walt
The old style is identified by a larger font of the serial number, about 3/16". The newer style is identified by a smaller font of the serial number, about 1/8", and a 'C' or 'D' preceeding the serial number. The old style takes a special wrench to remove the switch; the new style just requires an allen wrench; after loosening the switch screw, the entire switch slides out the front of the tube.
The switches are NOT interchangeable.
Hope this helps, Walt
