Paul, I'm not really convinced the 1 Amp Triton discharge test was a valid test so i would not trust that number.
My EZnite Amp readings are from inserting my DMM in-series using its Ammeter function. Amateur tech at work, proceed below with caution.... Install your DMM leads into the DMM to read Amps. Set the DMM switches to read up to 2 Amps minimum. Carefully place the front half of the light onto a mouse pad to protect it. Carefully place the loaded battery carrier on top of the front half of the light where it normally sets when the light is assembled (positive contact of battery carrier sitting on brass positive contact of the red circuit board). The next step completes the electrical circuit and the light will turn on. (Remember, no light will be visible to you because you are protecting the front half of the light by having it face-down on the mouse pad). Firmly place one test lead onto back brass negative plate of battery carrier and the other onto the raw threads of the front half of the light. A second set of hands is useful but not necessary to steady the battery carrier (it wobbles a bit). Read Amps as it's starting and as it settles upward. Note my readings. .85 initial strike and 1.25 running warmed up.
OK, charged the batts again and did a Volt probe during start and run.
Starting Volts: 15.03
Turn on: 11.55
Steady run 10.4
10.4 Volts x's 1.25 Amps = 13 Watts
Hmmm.... Do I say that I've got the one and only
SPECIAL 13 Watt EZnite? :nana:
Just throwing this out as a theory cause I don't really know. 10 to 13 Watts = a 30% increase. 40 min run time vrs 26 or 27 min. - a 30% reduction.
Mac, is the Solarc 10 Watt unit 10 Watts to the bulb or system Watts?
Maybe this is why my run time is low or maybe not, but I'm having lots of fun probing!
4 ea. Tenergy 900 mah, 3.0 V cells
Startup draw
Running draw