Fenix Dual Mode Question ???

DiCEMAN

Newly Enlightened
Joined
May 2, 2007
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104
Location
Sydney, Australia
I just got my new Fenix P3D (Actually I got 2 and sold 1).
It has 2 modes of operation, standard and 'Turbo'.

Maybe it's just me, but it's annoying how the Strobe and SOS are in seperate modes ???
I would have thought that a smart way of doing it would be to keep the 'NON STANDARD uses' in one mode and all the LIGHT modes (Low, Med, High, Very High) in the other mode. It's annoying to have to cycle through a strobe and SOS to change light level.

Maybe I'm just being pedantic..:sssh:

DiCEMAN
 
With the current setup you can switch on your light directly at maximum level (head tightened) or at minimum level (head loose). Not only that but you can also use it always and only at max or min, you just click on and off the tailcap button.

With your system if you wanted to go straight to max you would have to go through all levels. Are you sure it would be a good idea ?? :)
 
it does seem like it would make sense to put all the light levels in one mode and all the gimmicky levels in the other, doesn't it?

the only reasoning i can come up with is that if you're in a dangerous situation, you can put it on turbo to blind the bad guy or strobe to disorient him.
 
I think it`s a nice system in fact thats the main reason i ordered one from fenix store;)

The great thing is that if you use the light for tactical issues security etc. you tighten the bezel and just turn it on max power or push once to strobe and siorient an attacker while losening the bezel means you have all comfort of lets say night , survival normal applications. turn on and have great long lasting low mode push get medium high and sos. And if in your case you don`t want to cicle around with sos just turn it of for 2 sec and back on to low or tighten the bezel for max .... What more could you ask for ?! :rock:
 
I should have mentioned earlier... The Turbo mode, with the head tightened, does NOT start in ON mode, it starts in the STROBE ???
I have tried every combination and when I turn it on, it Strobes and I have to Click it once to get constant on. That's the main reason it is driving me nuts.

I agree to cycle through can be a pain to get to HIGH mode, Like the P1D, it would be great (in my scenario) to start at level 3. High Power is one click away and then LOW is only one more.
 
That is not right.It should start in constant on then go to strobe.Ceeck to make sure your contacts are clean.
 
DiCEMAN said:
I should have mentioned earlier... The Turbo mode, with the head tightened, does NOT start in ON mode, it starts in the STROBE ???
I have tried every combination and when I turn it on, it Strobes and I have to Click it once to get constant on. That's the main reason it is driving me nuts.
There is something very wrong with your P3D, it is not supposed to do that. I would first clean very well the threads and the top of the body (edge of the tube) then if it is not cured I would contact the seller and ask for advice/replacement. You say you had two of them, were they both the same?
 
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DiCEMAN,
I received one of the first P3D's and I experienced the same problem. What I found was this issue happened only when I used RCR 123 batterires. On cr123 primaries the normal cycling sequence occurs. I emailed fenix and Elly in service replied with the following:
"Regarding the phenomena that you use RCR 123 in P3D, I have met this case in our flashlights before, could you contact David for replacement. After he returned us, we will study what the reason is."
David issued an rma and within a week of returning my light, I received my a P3d. It works fine on the RCR 123's and primaries. Drop Daivd a note describing the issue.
 
Some quick reasoning. When you switch it on the first time with a serrated head the flashlight goes to turbo-max (all of them but yours....:mad: ). If immediately afterwards you briefly cut the power the light goes to strobe. The fact that yours goes to strobe implies IMO that the electric contact is somewhat uncertain and does a sort of initial double-switching. So again I would clean very well all threads and contacts, it is likely that this cures the problem.

And remember: A Fenix is like a gun - you always clean it before and after shooting....:lolsign:
 
I cleaned and re-cleaned my first P3D, and still had the problem. After much experimenting this issue was definitely linked to the higher voltage of the rcr123's. At least in my case.
Interestingly, when using the rcr 123's, this phenomenon would not arise immediately. I could go through one cycle correctly, then if I cycled a second time the sequences would change - startup in turbo resulted in strobe, while startup in normal mode began in med setting, progressing to high setting, then to sos, then back to med without hitting low. When in sos, half depressing the tail switch would finally click into low mode.
If I switched back to rcr 123 primaries, the problem went away. Then reappeared after one cycle on the rcr 123's. Later I realized that I could "reset" the light by unscrewing the tailcap half a turn and retightening. This would give me one normal cycle on rcr 123's, then on the next cycle through the problem reappeared.
DiCEMAN, are you using rcr 123's?
 
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UPDATE: It was switch bounce. a little firmer on the switch and all ok...

I'm only using Regular Energizer and Battery Station 123A's.

I'll shoot off an e-mail and see what happens. Being in Australia makes it an expensive light after it gets posted around the world a few times...
 
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