Fenix E01 Comparison Review

VF1Jskull1

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i had put up a preorder for 2 olives but changed my mind and had to cancel it to reorder a purple one for the wife and a black one for myself... plus i only used the 5% discount for the 2 olives and when i reodered to black/purple combo, i used 8% code so i saved a few more... not bad for such lights... my arc will still stay with my keys though...
 

UnknownVT

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E01ends.jpg

showing the +ve contact/circuit board of the head -
and the tail-standing end of the body tube.
 

UnknownVT

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In the thread My Quick Fenix E01 Review there was talk that 3 samples of Fenix E01 were not as bright as the Infinity Ultra and Dorcy 1AAA.

This peaked my interest as I have 2x CMG Ultra-G, and a collection of Dorcy 1AAA's - so I got hold of another Fenix E01 courtesy of 4sevens.

E01sz2.jpg
E01hds2.jpg


E01sz3.jpg
E01hds3.jpg


E01_2_UltraG.jpg
E01_2_UltraG2U.jpg

seems pretty obvious that the Fenix E01 is brighter than the CMG Ultra-G (and this is my marginally brighter one)

Just to be sure I did not receive an extra bright one - I also repeated comparisons with the Fenix E0 and Arc-AAA (~2003) as control with this second Fenix E01

E01_2_E0.jpg
E01_2_E0U2.jpg


E01_2_Arc.jpg
E01_2_Arc2U.jpg

these look about the same relatively as ones I took for 4sevens' own personal Fenix E01 (there is a slight characteristic difference - see later)

Compared to Dorcy 1AAA (gen 2 - the last reflectored version)
E01_2_Dorcy.jpg
E01_2_Dorcy2U.jpg

again it's pretty obvious that the E01 is brighter than the Dorcy 1AAA

This is not surprising since the Fenix E01 is some 5 years newer using the Nichia GS, and none of the comparison light have anything better than the CS (Fenix E0)

How about side emission and position of the LED?

E01Side2Emit.jpg

this shows that the LED is more forward but still recessed enough to just prevent the side-spikes that can be seen on the Arc-AAA and CMG Ultra-G.

Similarly for the Dorcy 1AAA (gen 2)
E01Side3Emit.jpg
 

w143

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Wow... nice review and comparison!!! Thank you for the excellent photos.

I wish you have the KD Buckle V4 Q5 to compare as well... wishing too much :p
 

UnknownVT

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when is an olive - Olive :D?

olivesS.jpg
greenOlives2S.jpg


The sample I got from 4sevens of Fenix-Store was "olive" - but it kind of looks more grey with a slight hint of green -
it cetainly doesn't look so obviously olive as the L1D-Q5 or the L0D-Q4.......
E01oliveS.jpg
FenixL0DQ4sz.jpg


I actually like this color (like a darker natural), over the truer olive -
are others like this E01, or closer to the L1D-Q5 and L0D-Q4?
 

tirod

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My EO1 is a lot less OD and a lot more light cypress - or Ranger Green, compared to the G10 on a SnG. It's just fine, not really dark if you're expecting that. I would certainly fit in with anything ACU. I have my share of issue OD stuff from over the years, their certainly is a wide range of shades, just like real olives.

If you drop your pocket light a lot despite the knurling, maybe red or orange would be better. At least there are choices.
 
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mcmc

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Cool! Is this HA really comparable in hardness to say SF's HAIII?
 

UnknownVT

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Cool! Is this HA really comparable in hardness to say SF's HAIII?

My understanding is that Type III (Hard) Anodizing (or HA) are supposed to be the same.

from the Wikipedia on Anodizing -
" The most widely used anodizing specification, MIL-A-8625, defines three types of aluminium anodization. Type I is Chromic Acid Anodization, Type II is Sulfuric Acid Anodization and Type III is sulfuric acid hardcoat anodization. Other anodizing specifications include MIL-A-63576, AMS 2469, AMS 2470, AMS 2471, AMS 2472, AMS 2482, ASTM B580, ASTM D3933, ISO 10074 and BS 5599. AMS 2468 is obsolete. None of these specifications define a detailed process or chemistry, but rather a set of tests and quality assurance measures which the anodized product must meet. BS 1615 provides guidance in the selection of alloys for anodizing. For British defence work, a detailed chromic and sulfuric anodizing processes are described by DEF STAN 03-24/3 and DEF STAN 03-25/3 respectively. "

From this one might assume that to cut corners the anodizing coat might be thinner - but it is taken care of in the specs -
" Sulfuric acid is the most widely used solution to produce anodized coating. Coatings of moderate thickness 1.8 μm to 25 μm (0.00007" to 0.001")[7] are known as Type II, as named by MIL-A-8625, while coatings thicker than 25 μm (0.001") are known as Type III, hardcoat, or engineered anodizing. "

BTW - the original SureFires like the famous 6P and now legendary 9P were only Type II anodized and NOT HA (III) - in fact they still are only Type II -

ref: SureFire 6P Original
" Rugged aerospace-grade aluminum body, Type II anodized in glossy black "

SureFire 9P Original
" Rugged aerospace-grade aluminum body, Type II anodized in glossy black "
 

TONY M

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Cool! Is this HA really comparable in hardness to say SF's HAIII?
There have been a few reports of the E01's black Anodizing not being up to the usual standard (wearing off before it should). Mine has been OK so far.
 

UnknownVT

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There have been a few reports of the E01's black Anodizing not being up to the usual standard (wearing off before it should). Mine has been OK so far.

It may not be as it seems.

Black is probably the color that contrasts/shows wear the most against bare aluminum, a grey or neutral would probably not show as much or even go unnoticed.

There has been a lot of discussion about hard anodizing (type III) - years ago the claim was that the HA (III) of the ArcAAA was better than the CMG Infinity Ultra-G - but we're not comparing apples with apples - the ArcAAA was dark grey and it has knurling/checkering over most of its body so would really only wear at the tips of the checkering - leaving most of the anodizing in the grooves untouched, and grey contrasts less with bare aluminum. Whereas the Ultra-G was in a very dark green which would show up any bare alumium, plus it was plain over most of it body again more easily scratched and show it.....

In case there were doubts that the Ultra-G was somehow sub-par - it had a military NSN number so was up to the MIL spec for government issue on hard anodizing (III).
 

Jarl

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The anodizing on my E01 is poor- worse than on my E0, which didn't have a great rep. to start with. However, this may have something to do with the knurling as it's not wearing on the flat surfaces. For reference, this is the gold colour.
 
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UnknownVT

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The anodizing on my E01 is poor- worse than on my E0, which didn't have a great rep. to start with. However, this may have something to do with the knurling as it's not wearing on the flat surfaces. For reference, this is the gold colour.

You're in the UK and fortunately are protected by UK Trading Standards - if you really think the E01's anodizing is sub-par and does not live up to the claim for Hard Anodizing (Type III)
couldn't you return it to your vendor for resitiution?
 

EngrPaul

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The lug has three spokes. Flip the split ring out of the way, and it tail stands.
 

Secur1

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I received my black HA E01 yesterday and it's even smaller than i originaly thought, great little light specially for the price, i only have two complaints, first of all the colour of the led, which was as expected very blue and second the beam pattern, i wish it was a bit more on the flood side.
And without realizing it, i actually have combos now :p

Spyderco Native III & Fenix P2D
Spyderco Dragonfly & Fenix E01
Benchmade Menchmite 3100 & Draco

 

victor01

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The 3 black Fenix E01s I ordered from fenix-store have arrived, 2 to be given as gift and I'll keep 1 for myself. This is what I have found.

Pro
1. For less than 15 dollars (CPF8 coupon) nothing could beat this.

Con
1. Seem to be a bit large. I compare it to my other aaa size light, the Liteflux LF2 Cree and they're about exactly the same diameter, with the LF2 just a wee bit longer. Given more flexibility and a lot more brightness of the LF2, I don't see I'll be replacing it with the E01 too soon.

2. The purple tint. I'm uncertain what kind of impression the recepient of these light would get, though in casual usage that couldn't be much of an issue, as far as everyday illumination is concerned. But the tint is always there. Oval beam profile.

3. On my samples, all 3 E01s do not have any lublicant. The o-rings and the threads came completly dry. Thanks to the grease included with the LF2. Now they're smooth again.

My conclusion

For 15 dollars, you'll get a long running light using common aaa batery, but don't expect too much.
 
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