Fenix HM61R ticking all the boxes?

DRW

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  • the interface is water-tight; no rubber cover is needed
I think if you look into it you'll find the rubber cover on Fenix lights is more of a dust cover. I've seen comments from Fenix indicating the at least some of their lights are waterproof without the rubber cover.
.. Apple laptops have similar pull-away magnetic charging ports too?...
Yes, I'm pretty sure that's where I first saw magnetic charging connectors. I think they are a great idea, but a laptop and flashlight have very different use cases. I never carried a laptop when I was a cop, but I always carried a flashlight.
I would always choose this port over a barrel connector charging port.
I agree.
I would always choose this port over a USB connector charging port.
As I mentioned previously, I would prefer a USB C (or micro) port. Since the charging cable is about $6, I picked up two extras, one for the truck, one for the office, one for the kitchen (normal charging area), and one for my hunting pack.
 

DRW

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It is again offered for sale as "used but in very good condition" at a slightly lower price. Amazon always buys things in large stocks and has very high profit margins no losses for him
Cleary, you don't understand how Amazon works (from the sellers side of things). It is a conglomeration of sellers, much like eBay. The difference is eBay never competes with it's sellers. Amazon does compete with it's sellers, where it attempts to monopolize commodity items.

Someone lost money on the return, but you are right it wasn't Bezos. It was likely one of the many independent sellers on Amazon who lost the $$.
 

Stefano

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Cleary, you don't understand how Amazon works (from the sellers side of things). It is a conglomeration of sellers, much like eBay. The difference is eBay never competes with it's sellers. Amazon does compete with it's sellers, where it attempts to monopolize commodity items.

Someone lost money on the return, but you are right it wasn't Bezos. It was likely one of the many independent sellers on Amazon who lost the $$.
This even if the item is "sold and shipped by Amazon" ?
 

DRW

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This even if the item is "sold and shipped by Amazon" ?
That's Amazon competing against it's sellers.

I don't see any Fenix lights "sold and shipped by Amazon" on the US site. However, I will admit that I don't have the patience to check every listing. Every listing I checked indicated fulfilled by Amazon, that means a third-party seller owns the inventory and pays Amazon to distribute and ship their products. That third-party seller is the one who looses money on the cherry picking scheme.
 

Stefano

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That's Amazon competing against it's sellers.

I don't see any Fenix lights "sold and shipped by Amazon" on the US site. However, I will admit that I don't have the patience to check every listing. Every listing I checked indicated fulfilled by Amazon, that means a third-party seller owns the inventory and pays Amazon to distribute and ship their products. That third-party seller is the one who looses money on the cherry picking scheme.
Here on the Italian Amazon I only buy lights if sold and shipped by Amazon, this gives me the maximum guarantee of replacement and/or refund.
Also useful when a specimen with an unconvincing tint occurs, I can ask for a replacement, observe the two specimens together and then keep the best one and return the other.
 

Stefano

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I took some photos even if I don't have an ideal place to take beamshot (these photos don't satisfy me very much) I used a fenix HL60R and the HM61R. It is easy to distinguish them because the HL60R is neutral (about 4500 K) while the HM61R is cold (about 6000 or 6500 K) In the first two photos I used the level of 400 lumens for both, in the following photos the turbo for both (HL60R = 950 lumens against the 1200 of the HM61R)
The photos are animated GIFs, I set a slow delay between the two photos.
 

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Stefano

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Tonight I walked the HM61R using the Turbo level.
Great brightness but after a few minutes it decreases a lot (outside temperature 18 ° C - slight wind) - I also noticed a slow and steady descent but immediately.
I wondered if the thermal sensor actually intervenes at 65C ° as the manufacturer declares or if it intervenes at lower values as it seems to be in vogue lately among many brands.
Always walking I have seen that when the brightness drops a lot and it is turned off for about 30 seconds or 1 minute when it is turned on again it delivers the maximum brightness again.
At home I used the lux meter (Turbo level - temperature in the house 22.5 ° C - no ventilation) - it starts to drop immediately but slowly.
After 60/70 seconds from switching on there is only about 3% less, then it starts to go down much more quickly.
After 2 minutes from switching on we are at 30% less but it remains stable up to about 3 and a half minutes when it goes down again but at this point the sensor intervenes more energetically because I see it go up and then go down.
After 5 minutes it drops to about 50% of the initial value and then rises to about -40%.
I then took a hair dryer (cold air) to see how it reacts to the flow of air.
It is not immediately reactive like the Zebralights but slowly rises to about -25% of the initial value - I kept the air cold for about 1 or 2 minutes but without seeing the initial value again.
All in all an acceptable behavior for a very small headlamp.
From reviews seen on the web in better cooling conditions than tonight I would have seen about 800/850 constant lumens.
Maybe I would have preferred a slightly larger size (or cooling fins) to have a constant brightness for some more time.
But maybe I am spoiled by the results I have with the old Wizard Pro V3 but which has larger dimensions and also the cooling fins
 

kreisl

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Are you describing the Turbo level performance thru words? ✨ 😎 👍

Btw it was measured by Zeroair in beautiful detail and posted in graphical format:

zeroair_reviews_fenix_hm61r_headlamp_59.png


I keep using my HM61R every effing day, without fail. And i appreciate the compact form factor and the magnetic charging and the tail magnet and the lighting-while-charging feature more and more. Still the best 18650 angle headlamp out on the market imho, even though i never tested any other models lol.
 

Stefano

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Are you describing the Turbo level performance thru words? ✨ 😎 👍

Btw it was measured by Zeroair in beautiful detail and posted in graphical format:

View attachment 27930

I keep using my HM61R every effing day, without fail. And i appreciate the compact form factor and the magnetic charging and the tail magnet and the lighting-while-charging feature more and more. Still the best 18650 angle headlamp out on the market imho, even though i never tested any other models lol.
 

Stefano

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My test is without cooling so very complicated to describe with Google translate :)
I am sure that with wind or low temperatures the behavior of the Headlamp would be as shown in the graph.
After the fun it was convenient to use the magnetic charging.
 

kreisl

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Since the charging cable is about $6, I picked up two extras, one for the truck, one for the office, one for the kitchen (normal charging area), and one for my hunting pack.
In our country the pinche geman fenis dealer charges more like €10 mas shipping (sku: FEE30RLadeka), the cable is supposed to be compatible with Fenix E18R, E30R, and HM61R.

The current price of the AX alternative [sku: 4000571189305], marketed by Trustfire, product model TrustFire MW1 USB, is higher:
ha469bcb7ef6a4c54a9d3bmkhc.jpg

The sales page $11.73 shipped clearly states compatibility with E18R E30R HM65R [sic].

Ah now i also understand why the headband's plastic holder is formed like it is. One could mount it upon the headbandless plastic holder for helmets, the Fenis ALG-03 V2.0 (compatible with HL55, HL60R, HM60R, HM61R, HM65R, HM70R). €6.50 mas shipping, aha.

To me, the plastic holder, the plastic helmet mount are toy-like quality and not suitable for real duty or long-term work. Not professional quality. Seriously what my grandmums would expect from "Made In China"-quality! On the positive side, the parts are super light-weight and can be replaced for "little" money (for a professional worker, €10 for a critical spare part is relatively little money me believes).
 

Labrador72

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I have no idea if if the HM65R Super Raptor 2 is steadily regulated as version 1, reading some tables it would seem not ..(700 lumens for 3 hours or 500 lumens for 4 hours).
For this reason I preferred SuperRaptor 1 (I don't know if it is out of stock) I like more version 1 (with spot led XM-L2) because it has a flood light with 130 lumens instead of 70 lumens.

The SuperRaptor2 was designed to be geared towards trail running and other outdoor sports.
That's why the SuperRaptor2 headlamps from the first batch didn't have mode memory and always start on the lowest level too.
It is supposed to be steadily regulated.

The SuperRaptor2 seems to have a design very similar to the HM65R ShadowMaster which is another HM65R% special edition for the UK market: The SuperRaptor just has a flood light instead of the red lgith and the sport-fit headband instead of the standard AFH 02 headband.

IMHO, the UltraRaptor2, at least those from the first batch, are the best trail and utlrarunning headlamp Fenix has ever released to date.
The best places to buy them online in Finland are scandinavian.com and varusteleka.com: both stores have excellent customer service.
 
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Stefano

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Does anyone know what wavelength the red led of this headlamp has? how many (nm) nanometer ?
The red leds should be two 2835 but I can't find any information about it.
 

Stefano

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Does anyone know what wavelength the red led of this headlamp has? how many (nm) nanometer ?
The red leds should be two 2835 but I can't find any information about it.
I learned a little while ago from Fenix that the HM70R has a wavelength of 630nm
They didn't answer me about the HM61R but at this point I assume it could be the same value.
In fact, the red led of the HM61R is very pleasant.

Yesterday I canceled an order for Zebralight H502pr because it has a wavelength too high (650/670 nm) and therefore has a much darker red.

Edit: Fenix also confirms 630nm for the HM61R
 
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Secateurs

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The SuperRaptor2 was designed to be geared towards trail running and other outdoor sports.
That's why the SuperRaptor2 headlamps from the first batch didn't have mode memory and always start on the lowest level too.
It is supposed to be steadily regulated.

The SuperRaptor2 seems to have a design very similar to the HM65R ShadowMaster which is another HM65R% special edition for the UK market: The SuperRaptor just has a flood light instead of the red lgith and the sport-fit headband instead of the standard AFH 02 headband.

IMHO, the UltraRaptor2, at least those from the first batch, are the best trail and utlrarunning headlamp Fenix has ever released to date.
The best places to buy them online in Finland are scandinavian.com and varusteleka.com: both stores have excellent customer service.
What is the model number for the UltraRaptor2? I am trying to find it in Australia and it doesn't seem to be sold under that name. Thanks.
 

kreisl

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What is the model number for the UltraRaptor2? I am trying to find it in Australia and it doesn't seem to be sold under that name. Thanks.
model number could be JAN-ETED-XXXX (with placeholder XXXX being the dealer's code/number). btw winter is over but i continue to use the headlamp (mostly as flashlight clipped in a mini tripod stand) every frikkin day, don't want to live without it. just a beautiful perfected product, made as compact as possible, seriously rivalling ZEBRALIGHT territory.

and the magnetic recharging cable is docked to the light all the time as well. i've been wondering how many units Fenix has been selling over these past 5.0 years.
 

kreisl

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2023.
Now the Fenix HM61R is ticking all the boxes: with the HM61R V2.0 😎 :clap::cool:

After reading @_UPz 's fantastic review, i decided to buy one for myself and feel compelled to share my findings as well. In summary, every single aspect that i wasn't completely happy with in V1 has been improved, the product has reached final maturity for years to come!

Summary of improvements (or notable changes):
  • beautiful non-greenish CW tint (for winners of the CW tint lottery)
  • perfect switch responsiveness, i.e. 100% no more misfires
  • unbreakable plastic construction for the headband adapter/flashlight holder
  • better visibility of battery level indicator LED at daylight
  • improved UI (double-click from OFF goes directly to Red Light mode; changed Lockout mode)
  • NEW. the clip is used to quick-attach the flashlight to the headband. well-executed new idea, should be seen as improvement
  • subtle. button is recessed for electronic switch protection and a more distinctive button feeling (enhanced finger placement)
  • subtle. refined machining at tail and head offers minor advantages
  • subtle. clip is securer, wider/stronger, cannot get lost; alas less optional a component
  • subtle. location of charging status indicator LED has changed from USB cable to flashlight, for improved visibility
  • subtle. a more controlled way of USB-powered lighting, with or without battery inside
  • NEW. changed brightness levels and runtimes, imho should be seen as nbd since the efficiency of LED or electronic circuit cannot have changed significantly
This is all you need to know as current owner of the V1 or as shopper for the V2.0. Fans of the HM61R will welcome Fenix's efforts to make their bestselling and only 1x18650 L-angle headlamp the end all be all in this category on the entire market. Stop reading here, unless you want to get bored viewing impossible photos of the improvements (you've been warned!), good-bye!

Best regards,
kreisl 🐣



You tell me which CW tint is the worst, these are all HM61R's from different production years (wallshot vs animated wallshot):
beam_sample0oefj.jpg

beam200cs_animatedxcdbw.gif

As you can see, my second V1 unit and my V2.0 unit clearly do not have any greenishness to the tint, neither in the hotspot nor in the spill. If your V2.0 unit has a surprisingly greenish tint, don't whine around but simply order a replacement unit from amazon, free next day delivery, and so on ("cherry-picking"), because this post is to reconfirm that absolutely beautiful CW tints do exist with the V2.0, i am living proof. Don't give up on the model only because you received a poorly tinted unit from your first dealer!

Let's get the novelty out of the way, the new 'flashlight holder'. It's a flat-ish simple piece of hard plastic. With no prongs sticking out, nothing could break off of it. For all intents and purposes we can regard it as unbreakable:
band_front8ciqt.jpg

The middle part ('bridge') consists of flat angled sections aha:
band_back0dcoh.jpg

Is the V1-flashlight compatible with this new holder? Yeah, kinda. The V1-flashlight slides in nicely up to this point, where it comes to a halt:
band_v11pfzk.jpg

From there some effort is required (not too much force but …erh… effort) to slide the clip all the way in. It certainly works but is no fun and not recommended by me:
band200cs_animatedhadi6.gif

The original V1-holder has 4 prongs, right? If yours has at least 2 prongs, then i'd prefer it to this new V2.0-holder for use with the V1-flashlight. ((And yes vice versa, the V2.0-flashlight works with my 2-pronged V1-holder but why))

The button lies recessed, 'under-level', protected against shocks/drops around the switch. The flashlight can easily do a headstand and without activating the electronic switch. The recessed button also gives the finger some guidance/proper placement and a distinctive haptic feeling, which i like:
buttoncloseup5vi3w.jpg

In broad daylight it is impossible to see the indicator LED under the V1-rubber boot (grey), while the V2.0-LED is still visible under the high-contrast(?) black rubber boot:
button_bright200cs_anipclx.gif

In daylight with some shade around, the visibility of the V1-LED isn't much better:
button_dark200cs_animmmdxr.gif


The standby current drain of the V2.0 is with ~12μA (= 0.000012A) higher than the V1.0 with ~5μA (=0.000005A). Both are ridiculously low values:
multimeter_animatedlvcng.gif


The V1-charging cable is not compatible with the V2.0-charging cable. Because of repulsive magnetic forces the V1-cable wouldn't connect to the V2.0-flashlight, and vice versa:
connectorhead1sir1.jpg
 
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kreisl

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The differences in machining between V1 and V2.0 are subtle, not essential. Overall the new version comes with more refined, more detailed machining, making the model look more mature and less primitively designed. Let's have a look at some details.

The V2.0 tail section has slightly longer male threads, a longer tail cap, and most notably a nice transition ('interface') between tail cap end (edge) and flashlight body:
tail2feiig.jpg

The V2.0-interface is pretty much seamless, whereas the V1 doesn't even have any interface or transition. The edge of the V1-tail cap ends abruptly, looking as primitive as an Armitec headlamp no offense:
tail1bsecq.jpg

Apart from nicer looks, a smooth transition helps against accidental bumps (or cloth catches) against the tail cap edge, or maybe even against ingress of dust, dirt, powder, sand, slime, and grime.

Looks like the V2.0 has a longer coil (spring) but that may well vary between production batches i guess:
tailcap_interiorusegg.jpg

The shorter the length of the female threads, the faster/more convenient it gets for the user to unscrew the tailcap oic:
tailcapa3dyj.jpg


I cannot see any differences between the driver discs from this point of view. Both have in common that the physical reverse polarity protection works as intended, I have tested it on both models
driverdisc1bff8.jpg


If you have eyes, then you can see that there are some differences in the machining of the body aha:
boring1obijp.jpg

The clips have similar total length but, of course, the V2.0 clip's design is optimized for use with the V2.0-holder:
boring2rrfe8.jpg

Why does the V2.0-clip have such a wide, fat attachment clamp on the flashlight body? Well, the clip is integral to the "V2.0 headlamp product", so it should never be taken off or get lost by accident. Secondly, the clip must be under much pretension, otherwise the flashlight would slide in slide out too easily from the plastic holder.
boring3vgf75.jpg

I always used my V1 headlamp without a clip. Now i am forced to use the V2.0 headlamp with a clip. Oki then.

I like that the head looks less primitive (less like an Armitec), less ball-like round. There are 3 faces now when there was just 1 ball-like surface:
front5ad7o.jpg

It may be a matter of taste but imho too many competitors have the ball-like primitive design. The protruding button switch ring (brass/copper?) on the V2.0 might act as shock absorber, if the flashlight gets accidentally dropped on that part upside down:
front22gdb3.jpg

Ooyah the cooling fins on the V2.0 are definitely larger, not that it would matter IRL. The edges of the fins feel sharp, they haven't been beveled or radiused, that's fine:
coolingfinsxiefm.jpg

The V2.0 head has clearly less curvature, less curved sections, and more flats:
magnetick6iq7.jpg

Apart from looks, does this matter? To me, it does because it facilitates the suggested reversible tape mod!

The old modding instructions (see post #51) are still valid:
modprep9ddwt.jpg

The V1 with old tape versus the V2.0 with fresh tape. Not a beauty but immensely effective to protect against unnecessary scratches. The thick tape also has shock-absorbing character:
mod_totals8d3o.jpg

Sorry if this animated GIF gives you the eye cancer 🤪, but it exemplifies how the V2.0 head is more suitable for the tape mod:
mod_front_animatedu5ixb.gif


With this distilled information (split into 2 posts), any V1 owner should be able to make a purchase decision in favor or against the upgrade. Hope this helps!
 
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