Fenix L1P replacement

[bhds]

Why doesn't fenix upgrade the L1P with any of the newer emitters?
Anyone know of any single level AA cree/rebel lights that aren't boosted to ridiculously short runtimes?

 

[greenLED]

I know... I loved the L1P. I kinda skipped over the L1T and have an L1D now. Actually, I'd be more than happy with an L1T Cree over all the silly modes in the D series.

 

[MarNav1]

Maybe they will do a "retro" model since L1P is what put them on the map for the most part. Maybe an L1+ type light? 7777 are you listening? I have an L2P w a CR2 body, really handy little light!

 

[tebore]

I did it myself I upgraded all my L2P/L1P heads with SSCs. It was a pain to crack the head open. Turns out the heat from running a RCR123 with each head generated enough heat to break the epoxy.

 

[LED_Thrift]

...Anyone know of any single level AA cree/rebel lights that aren't boosted to ridiculously short runtimes?

I don't know if you would consider a Seoul emitter instead of a cree/rebel but if so Peak can make you a light at virtually any level you want.
You can choose from aluminum, stainless or brass bodies. [Ti may also be available]
Choose your battery [AAA, AA, CR123, RCR123]
Choose your emitter: Seoul or Lux or 5mm
Choose your power level: [obviously brighter will get you less runtime / or you can choose your runtime requirement and they will give you max brightness for your chosen battery for that runtime]
To an extent you can choose your beam shape as their different heads [ie Pacific, Baltic etc can have different beam qualities]
EXCELLENT build quality, rugged and durable.
They stand behind their made in the USA lights.
"Custom" lights for less than custom prices.

Don't try to get all this from their website though, you'll probably just get frustrated - Give them a call.

 

[bhds]

I know... I loved the L1P. I kinda skipped over the L1T and have an L1D now. Actually, I'd be more than happy with an L1T Cree over all the silly modes in the D series.

The L1T aint that great either:thumbsdow I have one and compared it side by side with my L1P and after about 15-20 minutes the two are pretty close to equal in brightness. At about 50-55 minutes its dying. 65 minutes and its dimmer than a first edition arc aaa. (standard version)

 

[Culhain]

An updated L1P would be great. I like the size, form and simple UI. If Fenix were to offer an upgraded L1P, optimized for lithium AA primary, I would buy one in a heartbeat.

Sadly, it appears that Fenix is committed to multi-stage lights, so the closest we have is the very excellent P1-CE. Perhaps Fenix competitors who are fond of cloning their designs, will read this and upgrade the L1P. At this point, they don't have to beat the price, just matching the quality at an affordable price point would be adequate. Hope springs eternal.

 

[bhds]

I don't know if you would consider a Seoul emitter instead of a cree/rebel but if so Peak can make you a light at virtually any level you want.
You can choose from aluminum, stainless or brass bodies. [Ti may also be available]
Choose your battery [AAA, AA, CR123, RCR123]
Choose your emitter: Seoul or Lux or 5mm
Choose your power level: [obviously brighter will get you less runtime / or you can choose your runtime requirement and they will give you max brightness for your chosen battery for that runtime]
To an extent you can choose your beam shape as their different heads [ie Pacific, Baltic etc can have different beam qualities]
EXCELLENT build quality, rugged and durable.
They stand behind their made in the USA lights.
"Custom" lights for less than custom prices.

Don't try to get all this from their website though, you'll probably just get frustrated - Give them a call.

Interesting. I didnt know that. I might check into it.

 

[BigBluefish]

Well, there is a sort-of improved L1P. I picked up an L2P v2.0 and an L1P body. Putting the L2P head on the 1 x AA tube makes a nice little two-level light. The 2P head is regulated; I'm pretty sure there is a runtime graph posted somewhere for this combo. I'd guess it's a bit brighter on high than the L1P, with the added benefit of a useful low. Nice and simple.

 

[louie]

I'm like Tebore - just install SSCs in them. Here's my tip for getting the pill out:
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=184709

It's still a nice light. Doesn't confuse people if you loan it out. Smaller size.

 

[Vikas Sontakke]

I did it myself I upgraded all my L2P/L1P heads with SSCs. It was a pain to crack the head open. Turns out the heat from running a RCR123 with each head generated enough heat to break the epoxy.

I would love to know how you managed to run L1P on RCR123. I don't think I have enough strength to push RCR123 inside the battery tube of L1P

- Vikas

 

[cqbdude]

I would recommend just picking up a new Fenix L1D cree and you will be all set.

I have upgraded my L1P to run on CR123 and RcR123 using a flupic driver board driving a Seoul LED P4.

I also have one I modded to use AAA size bats..

 

[bhds]

I would recommend just picking up a new Fenix L1D cree and you will be all set.

Not hardly:ironic:
I have one already. Totally different light.

 

[LEDninja]

Do you want L1P runtime with double the brightness?
L1T v2.0 RB80 head tightened in turbo mode.
MTE 1xAA SSC-P4 42180-U Flashlight.

OR
Do you want L1P brightness with double the runtime?
L1T v2.0 RB80 head loose in low mode.
Elektrolumens Lucidus XR-1. L1P brightness (totally different beam pattern) for 3-1/2 hours.

DX/KAI Single-Stage 1AA Cree/SSC shootout: BEAMSHOTS + RUNTIMES
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=171621

Budget Rebel/Cree/Seoul EDC-Sized DX/KD flashlights roundup - Romisen RC-G4 added!
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=176577
Budget Rebel/Cree/Seoul/LED EDC-Sized DX/KD Flashlights Review (Part II)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=188590

 

[harddrive]

The L1T aint that great either:thumbsdow I have one and compared it side by side with my L1P and after about 15-20 minutes the two are pretty close to equal in brightness. At about 50-55 minutes its dying. 65 minutes and its dimmer than a first edition arc aaa. (standard version)

Which L1T are you talking about? I am about to order the L1T V2 with Rebel 80 emiter but your comments are making me have second thoughts.

 

[bhds]

Do you want L1P runtime with double the brightness?
L1T v2.0 RB80 head tightened in turbo mode.
MTE 1xAA SSC-P4 42180-U Flashlight.

OR
Do you want L1P brightness with double the runtime?
L1T v2.0 RB80 head loose in low mode.
Elektrolumens Lucidus XR-1. L1P brightness (totally different beam pattern) for 3-1/2 hours.

DX/KAI Single-Stage 1AA Cree/SSC shootout: BEAMSHOTS + RUNTIMES
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=171621

Budget Rebel/Cree/Seoul EDC-Sized DX/KD flashlights roundup - Romisen RC-G4 added!
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=176577
Budget Rebel/Cree/Seoul/LED EDC-Sized DX/KD Flashlights Review (Part II)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=188590

Thanks for the links! I need to do some research on these.

 

[bhds]

Which L1T are you talking about? I am about to order the L1T V2 with Rebel 80 emiter but your comments are making me have second thoughts.

The same one you are. The low is too low for anything useful. The high is only useful for about 20 minutes.:shrug:
As always, Y.M.M.V.

 

[LEDninja]

The L1T aint that great either:thumbsdow I have one and compared it side by side with my L1P and after about 15-20 minutes the two are pretty close to equal in brightness. At about 50-55 minutes its dying. 65 minutes and its dimmer than a first edition arc aaa. (standard version)

Missed the meaning of this when I went through this thread before.

Most of the high powered lights today need a lot of battery power. Alkalines will not supply that power. You need 'DIGITAL' batteries. Take a look at Chevrofreak's runtime graph of the L2T: (sorry he did not do one for the L1T but it is the same head)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=177886
Notice how short the alkaline runtime is on alkalines. 32 minutes on 2 batteries. (The L1T/L2T head uses 2/3 the power to produce 2/3 the light on a single AA so bhds runtime of 20 minutes is accurate FOR ALKALINES ONLY).
Switching to 'Digital' batteries tell a different story:
1 hour 46 minutes on NiMH. (? 1 hour 10 minutes for L1T)
2 hours 7 minutes for Energizer e2 L91 lithiums. (? 1 hour 25 minutes for L1T)

The L1P does have better runtime but is 1/2 as bright.
2 hour 35 minutes on NiMH.
3 hours 10 minutes on lithiums.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=103499

bdhs you are using the incorrect battery for your high powered lights. I you will not use your light much buy a pack of Energizer L91s. If you will use the light a lot get some Eneloops or other LSD NiMH batteries and a charger. Make sure the charger can charge single cells!

 

[bhds]

The L1P does have better runtime but is 1/2 as bright.

And what happens if you put one of the newer twice as efficient(approx.) leds and drive it at the same current? :nana:

 

[LEDninja]

And what happens if you put one of the newer twice as efficient(approx.) leds and drive it at the same current? :nana:

That will probably meet your needs better than buying a new light. But I don't have the soldering skills so I buy new lights.