Fenix LD75C: 4xXM-L2(U2)+1xRGBW LED, max. 4200 lumens, 4x18650, (beam)shots, compare

kj75

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A nice light, and one that I think I might say yes to, soon. How do you think it compares to the 2.9klm TK75 ? I own one of them and very much enjoy it. Is this a little bit brighter with the added bonus of the RGBW led, do you think ? I don't need 1000 M plus throw, just a decent wall of light like the '75. My first buy of any style of light in 1.5 - 2.0 years, so am looking forward to it.

:sssh:

Less throw, but much more output. An impressive wall of light.

Some comparison pictures in another review:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...beamshots-compared-(also)to-TK75-2900-version
 

harro

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Received mine a couple of days ago. I notice it also has the polarity disparity between staves and pcb. The simplest, quickest fix for mine was four small dobs of pcb coloured green model paint. Let it dry before using, and no worries. Removes that worry of reverse polarity installation of cells by unfamiliar users. I know you shouldnt have to do that to an expensive light, but it was a $2 fix from the local hobby store.
Great light though, lights up further than my tired eyes can see.

Thanks kj75 for a great review, it influenced my decision to purchase, based on your excellent pics and comparo's with the TK75 2.9klm and TK75 '15.
 
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JohnD0406

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A bit late responding to this thread, but I'm new 'round here, so...

About the polarity markings - they appear to be correct to me. As was mentioned earlier, but perhaps overlooked, the markings at the tail show the correct polarity at the tail; as you would expect, the opposite polarity markings on the PCB show what polarity should be at the PCB. I'm an engineer, and I would have designed it exactly the same way. It makes sense when you think about it - positive on the PCB is negative at the tail, and marked accordingly. I don't own this light (yet?), so correct me if I'm missing something.
 

harro

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A bit late responding to this thread, but I'm new 'round here, so...

About the polarity markings - they appear to be correct to me. As was mentioned earlier, but perhaps overlooked, the markings at the tail show the correct polarity at the tail; as you would expect, the opposite polarity markings on the PCB show what polarity should be at the PCB. I'm an engineer, and I would have designed it exactly the same way. It makes sense when you think about it - positive on the PCB is negative at the tail, and marked accordingly. I don't own this light (yet?), so correct me if I'm missing something.

I think the markings at both ends created a few issues for some. Maybe thinking the pcb markings referred to what the polarity should be at the tailcap end. You are correct, the markings are how they should be. It is what it is, I guess. As I was saying in earlier posts, I follow what the markings on the staves say, and simply covered the pcb marks with a dob of green paint. Eliminates the worry of reverse polarity installation of cells by an unfamiliar user if you loan the light. If you get the chance to own or use one, jump at it. Its a great, reliable light with plenty of output for real world applications, with the bonus of coloured light ( and a naughty blue/red flashy strobe mode, which could get you into the fertilizer... ) :D
 
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Artivideo

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The LD75C is now already a few years on the market will there be a version with 6000 or 8000 lumen in the same form factor and with a bit stronger coloured leds ? Comparing to the competition Fenix updates its flashlights not very often. They get behind in the lumen race.




I think the markings at both ends created a few issues for some. Maybe thinking the pcb markings referred to what the polarity should be at the tailcap end. You are correct, the markings are how they should be. It is what it is, I guess. As I was saying in earlier posts, I follow what the markings on the staves say, and simply covered the pcb marks with a dob of green paint. Eliminates the worry of reverse polarity installation of cells by an unfamiliar user if you loan the light. If you get the chance to own or use one, jump at it. Its a great, reliable light with plenty of output for real world applications, with the bonus of coloured light ( and a naughty blue/red flashy strobe mode, which could get you into the fertilizer... ) :D
 

harro

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The LD75C is now already a few years on the market will there be a version with 6000 or 8000 lumen in the same form factor and with a bit stronger coloured leds ? Comparing to the competition Fenix updates its flashlights not very often. They get behind in the lumen race.


That's a darn good question, unfortunately for Fenix lovers the chances of an updated LD75C are probably pretty slim. You know the sort of thing, same color led as it already has, but X-HP50's in place of the old X-ML's and an output of around your assertion, all in the same form factor. A REALLY NICE thought. Chances of it actually happening.........:sigh:

A shame really, cause the LD75C is a very nice light, and an updated one would be something to see. Also probably as close as you are ever likely to get to a soda can sized light, from them. I use mine ( LD75C that is ) once or twice a week, and it never fails me. It just does everything well. I like it anyway.
 
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lumen aeternum

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If I want color at night to preserve my vision, I don't want any chance of going thru a white light.

If I see a PCB board with a "+" polarity marking, I would believe that its telling me that "this connector is positive."
Therefore to make current flow, I would need to connect it to the NEGATIVE side of the battery.

If the marking is intended to tell you "Make the + side of the battery touch HERE" it needs to be explained.

Still looking for a nice pencil beam light...
 
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