Fenix P1D CE Q5 Emitter Upgrade?

[tomab]

Hello,

I am looking to do my first mod on a Fenix P1D CE Q5. I briefly describe my situation on a previous post here http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?316519-Fenix-P1D-Problem&highlight= .

I am finally looking to fix this but not sure what the best choice for a new emitter would be. I'm not even sure if I have options. I would like to keep it fairly simple by only replacing the emitter or in addition a simple modification.

My question to everyone is what, if any, newer emitter could successfully replace the old damaged XR-E Q5? I would love to replace it with a newer/latest and greatest brighter one with similar run times but I don't know if it's possible. Or is the best option to replace with another XR-E Q5?

I haven't the slightest knowledge of all the technical stuff to compare the latest emitters and if they are compatible with the P1D circuitry.

I appreciate any guidance and suggestions on which direction to go in.

Thanks

 

[fyrstormer]

The XR-E has a different beam pattern than just about everything else, which makes it very difficult to get a good beam from an XR-E specific reflector with just about any other emitter.

One quick mod would be to remove the dome from the existing LED, fill in the damaged silicone with Norland epoxy, harden it with UV (setting it outside on the porch in the sun will work fine), and then continue using the light. The XR-E actually has quite a nice beam pattern when the dome is removed, as long as you fill in the damaged silicone with something to produce a flat surface above the emitter. I've "fixed" several XR-Es this way. It also widens the hotspot by a noticeable amount, which personally I like.

 

[THE_dAY]

I've been told that the XML is a good replacement for the XRE reflector.
You will get more lumens which will show as a massive flood. Throw won't increase but the flood area will be brighter.

 

[tomab]

Thanks for the quick replies!

The XR-E has a different beam pattern than just about everything else, which makes it very difficult to get a good beam from an XR-E specific reflector with just about any other emitter.

One quick mod would be to remove the dome from the existing LED, fill in the damaged silicone with Norland epoxy, harden it with UV (setting it outside on the porch in the sun will work fine), and then continue using the light. The XR-E actually has quite a nice beam pattern when the dome is removed, as long as you fill in the damaged silicone with something to produce a flat surface above the emitter. I've "fixed" several XR-Es this way. It also widens the hotspot by a noticeable amount, which personally I like.

If I were to use the Norland epoxy could/should I totally eliminate the original dome or fill it with epoxy and place back on the emitter then let harden?

If I were to use the Norland epoxy exactly which kind should I use? I checked out their website and they have so many different kinds.

Are there any other ideas out there? (not to discredit this option just digging for more ideas). Thanks fyrstormer and THE_dAY.

 

[fyrstormer]

The goal of using the Norland epoxy is to fill the gaps in the torn silicone left behind when the dome was removed, and to provide protection to the emitter once the dome is gone. There is no need to reinstall the dome after that.

I used Norland 61 epoxy, the same stuff used to install tritium markers in high-end lights.

 

[tomab]

Thanks fyrstormer!

 

[fyrstormer]

The tricky part is getting the Norland epoxy perfectly level before exposing it to UV. A cheap plastic pipette comes in super-handy for adding and removing tiny amounts of Norland to get the fluid level just-right.

 

[tomab]

After looking closer at the emitter I have a question. Is it critical to get ALL the old silicone from the emitter removed before the Norland. If so how easy is it to damage the emitter while removing it. Do I scrape it off, wipe it off? Sorry for the what might seem like a silly question but never did this before and I don't want to ruin what I have. Any more advice on proper technique is appreciated of course. Thanks.

 

[datiLED]

In your previous post, Nake had good advice.

Can't really get that dome back to the way it was. I would replace the emitter. Desolder the two wires, then pop the LED off. Glue another on and resolder the wires.

Have you considered replacing the damaged Q5 XR-E LED with an R2 XR-E? It would be a little brighter, and you wouldn't have to worry about any artifacts in the beam, or discoloration of the die over time. If you have the head open, you are half way there.

 

[tomab]

In your previous post, Nake had good advice.


Have you considered replacing the damaged Q5 XR-E LED with an R2 XR-E? It would be a little brighter, and you wouldn't have to worry about any artifacts in the beam, or discoloration of the die over time. If you have the head open, you are half way there.

I would definitely consider that. I just wasn't sure which emitter would be best. Is the R2 the only other option of replacing besides another Q5?

 

[tomab]

Is it critical to get ALL the old silicone from the emitter removed before the Norland. If so how easy is it to damage the emitter while removing it. Do I scrape it off, wipe it off? Sorry for the what might seem like a silly question but never did this before and I don't want to ruin what I have.

Nevermind.......ruined it. Too anxious to wait. It's very easy to ruin it! Lesson learned. Looks like replacement is now the only option. Looks like I'll have to find another use for the Norland 61 I just ordered hours ago, lol.........Hopefully the emitter replacement goes better than this......boy those wires are tiny...even under magnification!:duh2: Since I'm on the subject, where is the best place to buy individual emitters?🙂