Fenix P3D, What's the Big Deal ?

jefffoxsr

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Jan 18, 2007
Messages
16
I know many of you have a lot of technical knowledge.
I don't. I'm just a beginning addict.

Please Educate me. :):)

After I review Chevrofreak's runtime graphs on the L2D-CE, I don't see why anyone who already owns an L2D-CE would buy a P3D.

Chevrofreak's runtime graphs shows about 30% LONGER runtimes on Energizer E2 AAs for the L2D-CE than Fenix is publishing for the P3D.

As for the additional 25 Lumens over the L2D-CE, it won't matter in the field or anywhere else.

Oh, and the P3D is a tad shorter.

So, after considering those factors I don't see a reason for an L2D-CE owner like myself to buy a P3D.

After having said that, and Because I am a fellow addict, I'll probably buy a P3D.

Did I miss any other considerations between these two fine lights.

Thanks for the Education. Have a Nice Day.
 
Last edited:
I think the shorter length is quite significant. A 2xAA is one CR123 longer than a 2xCR123... That's 33% shorter. 25 lumens is also significant in my opinion. I find the 2xAA lights to be quite odd- long and skinny. A 2x123 light is shorter and fatter which feels more ergonomic.

Also, you are comparing the L2D ON LITHIUMs compared to the P3D. How much do E2's cost? Titanium CR123's are only $1. The selling point of the L2d is that it runs on widely available, economical AA's.
 
As you said, if you allready have the L2D, there really isnt that much reason to buy the P3D, other than the collecting aspect. Only reason I'm tempted to buy it, is the increased brightness, but I'm not sure how much difference there really will be. And why bother to go through the pain that CR123 is (at least where I live) when you can use sweet sweet AAs.

The jury is still out on what voltage the P3D will support, and with that, which different kind of Li-Ion batteries you will be able to use on it. So if you have Li-rechargables, the P3D might be of interest, depending on what the final verdict on the voltage input will be.

Only other difference I know is the low battery indicator, but don't know how it works or if it's that usefull.

EDIT:Funny, I think you just persuaded me from buying the P3D.:)
 
Last edited:
The jury is still out on what voltage the P3D will support, and with that, which different kind of Li-Ion batteries you will be able to use on it. So if you have Li-rechargables, the P3D might be of interest, depending on what the final verdict on the voltage input will be.
I expect that it's probably a buck convertor -- meaning you'll see regulated high output on 2x Rechargeable 123, or much much longer runtime (with gradually diminishing brightness) on 1x17670. It would be nice though if they'd bored out the tube to support the 18650 size -- as that cell size is a lot more common, and has higher energy content (2200, as opposed to 1800mAh).

Actually, the size of light I'd like to see woudl be a twisty 1x18500 -- something along the lines of a P1D that supported 18500, as that comes with the advantage of much longer runtime (I'd expect almost triple), in a size roughly in between 1xCR123, and 2xCR123.
 
Last edited:
I pre-ordered both the P2D CE and P3D CE because I'm a flashaholic.

Seriously, there's not too many features that drew me to believe they're much better than the previous Fenix CREE lights, I'm a Fenix collector ;)
 
I think the 2 major benefits of the P3D vs a L2D will be:
1. Size P1D 7.1 cm. P2D 8.0cm, L1d 9.7cm, P3D 11.4cm, L2D 14.7cm. for 1.3" shorter and somewhat brighter light, it seems like a nice step forward, but not "revolutionary". Whether the size is really important is an individual decision, but I wonder if this will fit much better on a belt compared to the L2D.
2. 3.7 RCR123s will likely do very well (a guess) with the Fenix UI. For example, the Lumapower M1 does poorly with those batteries if you use the 2 stages switch because there is too much heat on the resistor in low.

The P3D seems like a nice addition to the Fenix line, but not a must have (for me). I'm getting a P2D because I like smaller lights and prefer the UI to the P1D.
 
it's shape is similar to what we already have INSIDE OUR PANTS.











the pocket...
what the hell were you thinking?
 
One thing the L2D won't give the various levels with fresh Lithium primaries which is a pain as I like the low for in car use (Which is where I keep my L2Ds) I assume the P3D has sorted this. However I will stick with the L2Ds for now for the longer run time in an emergency with the spare Lithiums and the day to day use with eneloops.

I love Fenix lights and have a fair few. I prefer the twisty P1D CE for EDC as its more compact but the P2D answers those who prefer a tail clicky.

If I am travelling I have a fenix AAA on my keyring for ease of obtaining cells and again battery life vs output.

They do everything I need from them the various UIs don't bither me as much as they seem to others.

I'd happily stump up for a 2x Cr123 as well if it was a tactical light. I have a surefire L2 in my work kit as a tactical light. That's the gap in Fenixes line up. An L2T/D style cree head to change the levels would be better than the L2. It would need a decent momentary clicky. Just the 2 levels 15 lumens or so for walking around and as bright as you like for tactical use so that you don't change modes inadvertantly. In fact an
L2D style head but just Turbo on the high setting would suit me just as well.
 
Vinnyp,
I haven't tried the lithiums yet in the L2D-CE. Are you saying that the different light levels are not available?

When I looked a Chevrofreak's runtime graphs he has one graph displayed for each level using Energizer E2 Lithium batteries.

Am I missing something?

Thanks.
 
It's likely that since (I think) lithium primaries start of at 1.7V, as opposed to 1.5V for alkaline, and 1.2V for NiMH, until the voltage in the battery lowers a bit, the lower levels might not be accessible. This might happen because the light would simply go into direct drive at the higher voltages. It would probably only last a few minutes.


One reason I would prefer the L2D is the fact that it takes a range of batteries. I can use NiMH for everyday use, keep a few lithiums for backup, and if need be I can buy some alkalines. This is the sort of thing that makes me want an L2D, especially when I'll be in a place where only alkaline batteries are available. There's nothing more embarrassing to a flashaholic than getting stuck in a small town in the middle of nowhere with no AA/AAA lights, and having your friend's half-dead mini-mag save the day. (Shudder Shudder) You could carry around a crate of CR123as, but there should always be a plan B. Personally, I prefer CR123a lights, but I don't want to be stuck without batteries. And NiMH are a lot safer than Li-Ion
 
I think 4 sevens already mentioned it on here somewhere so I was aware when I bought them. There is a clear difference with my light on low with lithiums and NiMh or alkaline. The low on Lithiums is much brighter hardly any dimmer than the high.
 
The Jetbeam MKII and MKIIx is fully regulated on 3.6V Lithiums. I'm hoping the same will be the case with the P3D . . .
 
Vinnyp said:
I think 4 sevens already mentioned it on here somewhere so I was aware when I bought them. There is a clear difference with my light on low with lithiums and NiMh or alkaline. The low on Lithiums is much brighter hardly any dimmer than the high.
Vinnyp, when you have fresh lithiums in your L2D do the SOS and strobe still work normally or does the light only dim between flashes?
 
I just tried the Energizer E2 Lithiums in my Fenix L2D-CE and all the levels worked the same as with the alkaline batteries.
 
I want it! wasnt long ago that 25 lumens was all the light available, now ist a minor step LOL. I want it because it is compact, barely thicker than LxD's, and so much shorter than L2D. I understand some batteries are a tad bigger than lithium? wont affect me though, I am pretty stuck on AA and lithum.
 
I'm trying to replace my single cell 123 lights with AA's. NOT interested! The size vs runtime in this comparision is miniscule.
 
Top