Fenix T1 Q5

Interesting to see that this puts out a similar amount of light to the Dereelight CL1H, which was using a smooth reflector and the Fenix uses a textured one.

Textured v's textured and the Fenix is a clear winner.
 
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x2x3x2,
Wow! Look at all the great new reviews. All the lights I have been wondering about...from the AE to the DBS. Thank You! I just got the T1 and am really impressed with it. Also, I thought the spill on my Olight T20 Q5 was freaking bright. Thanks for the reviews...plus what most of us can't do, Lux #'s and runtimes. If you are ever in New Mexico (don't come in the Summer, but winters are nice) I owe you some good tequila.
 
Thanks for the nice review. I check your site frequently. Looking forward to see a review of the Spartanian II also when it becomes available.
Keep up the good work! :)
 
Interesting to see that this puts out a similar amount of light to the Dereelight CL1H, which was using a smooth reflector and the Fenix uses a textured one.

Textured v's textured and the Fenix is a clear winner.

This is not the case. I'm not sure what's going on with his LUX reading for the CL1H with a 2SD (I'd guess he got a bad one), but he's showing a lower reading than the old 5-stage Q2 module, vs. the newer Q5. ??

When I tested my 5-stage Q2 and my Dereelight Q5 modules, the Q5's were much brighter.

I got a LUX reading of around 6,600LUX with the T1, and around 9,300LUX with the CL1H w/ 3-stage Q5 (not even the new 2SD and 3SD Q5 at 1.2A which should be even brighter) and smooth reflector. With a textured reflector in the Dereelight I would expect the LUX readings to be very close to the T1.

Also note my LUX meter reads lower than x2's from what I've seen of his results and mine. So my results can only be used to compare lights I've tested with my LUX meter. If my CL1H was tested on x2's LUX meter it would probably read around 11,000lux.
 
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Your right Wade, apparently the pill in my CL1H 2SD is faulty (as stated at the end of the review). Btw, when you measure for lux reading in the spot, do you shift/position to find the brightest point in the hotspot? Reason being that sometimes the perceived center isn't always the brightest point because emitter/reflector are not perfectly alligned.

According to Dereelight, both the CL1H 2SD and DBS 2SD use identical emitter pills and so are interchangeable. However when I swapped the DBS pill into the CL1H 2SD, the beam profile isn't as well focused and a little ringy. Reason being the DBS pill has a slightly higher lip than that which came in the CL1H 2SD. You may refer to the runtime of the DBS 2SD review as they should be the same.
 
Yeah, I always move the beam around to find the brightest spot and record the highest LUX value I can find in the hot spot

Also while the Dereelight pills can be interchanged, I was informed the pills are different. If you have a DBS pill you need to remove the o-ring from the back of the CL1H reflector's. If you look, you should see some kind of rubbery stuff on the back of the reflector where the pill screws in. Removing that I figure allows the DBS pills to screw in farther, allowing for the hot spot to be more focused, etc.
 
Quick comment; in your review you say:
The regulating circuit is the T1 is slightly different from that in the P series for example as it doesn't start pulsing as the battery voltage runs down. The T1 simply gets dimmer.
That is not my experience with the T1; it kinda flickers (more like strobes or pulsates) on high when the batts reach that threshold where they can't keep up with the high mode. When I reach that point, I simply switch to low mode, and the strobing goes away.

The low mode, OTOH, does seem to become dimmer as batteries continue to get depleted and reach the end of their life. I'm on the second set of batteries now.

Maybe there are slight individual differences in the circuits? :thinking:
 
Features
• Cree Premium (Q5) 7090 XR-E LED with lifespan of 50,000 hours
• Two modes of output, selected by turning the bezel:
¨ Turbo Mode: Constant 225 Lumens, 1.5 hours
¨ General Mode: Constant 60 Lumens, 10 hours
• Highly efficient focusing head - throws beam over 200 meters
• Textured Reflector for optimum balance and transition between spot and flood
• Digitally regulated output - maintains constant brightness
Low battery indication system
• Uses two 3V CR123A lithium batteries TWO CR123A INCLUDED
• 136.5mm (Length) x 35mm (Diameter)
• Solid stainless head & durable aircraft-grade aluminum housing
• Premium Type III hard-anodized anti-abrasive finish
• 153 + -- 0.5 gram weight (excluding batteries)
• Waterproof to IPX-8 Standard
• Toughened ultra-clear glass lens with anti-reflective coating
• Tactical tailcap switch with momentary-on function
• Tactical body clip – attaches securely for easy carrying
• Anti-roll, slip-resistant body design
• Able to stand up securely on a flat surface to serve as a candle
• Included accessories: holster, lanyard, two spare o-rings, and a spare rubber switch boot

From Fenix-Store.com
 
Yup, I was a little confused about the pulsing too cost mine doesn't pulse when the cells run down on high mode. Not that I'm complaining, I actually prefer it this way :)

Regarding the CL1H/DBS pills, yes i did try with and without the rubber o-ring, and even without the thin plastic disk. Not a good focus, the lip on the brass pill itself is sligthly higher.
 
Thanks for the review.
x2x3x2, out of all the lights you reviewed, what is your favourite EDC cr123 light and your favourite 18650, or 2xcr123 light?
 
Regarding the CL1H/DBS pills, yes i did try with and without the rubber o-ring, and even without the thin plastic disk. Not a good focus, the lip on the brass pill itself is sligthly higher.

I have found some pills focus better than others. I don't know if that's down to the emitter, or how the emitter was mounted on the pill, or the tolerances of the pill, etc.

I'll let you know how the new 2SD/3SD Q5 WC's work out for me when I get them. Alan says they no longer make noise on medium, low, etc.
 
Yeah, I always move the beam around to find the brightest spot and record the highest LUX value I can find in the hot spot

Also while the Dereelight pills can be interchanged, I was informed the pills are different. If you have a DBS pill you need to remove the o-ring from the back of the CL1H reflector's. If you look, you should see some kind of rubbery stuff on the back of the reflector where the pill screws in. Removing that I figure allows the DBS pills to screw in farther, allowing for the hot spot to be more focused, etc.

+

Not to stray too far from this thread,
I'v taken all my o-rings out of my Deree reflectors and put them above the clear plastic ring, along with testing lots of spacers (even made some).
{Experimented with every possible combo, with o-rings and without}

Its great to be able to manually adjust focus!!

My DBS pill was screwed in very far to make a super tight spot and was running direct drive (lost modes), ridiculous throw with WC tint,.... was too unstable for batteries though.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=179530
 
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Mev i didnt know that you are back here in CPF, well welcome back glad to have you here. :wave:
Thanks for the reviews
 
What batt brand are you using, x12? I ran out of SF's and am going through my stash of Varta cells right now.
 
Hiya rizky,
Thanks for the welcome :)

greenLED,
I use Energizer e² lithiums for primary CR123 cells.

skyline_man,
For a CR123 powered EDC I would go for the Fenix P2D series.
I usually use very low levels 90% of the time, and high levels 10% of the time.
The ease of switching between lowest and turbo levels is a big plus for me.

My current fav 18650/2xCR123 light would have to be the Regalight WT1.
 
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