Fenix TK10 Comparison Review

UnknownVT

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 27, 2002
Messages
3,671
Hot from the Fenix-Store -
the much talked about Fenix TK10

Packaging & label details -
TK10box.jpg
TK10label.jpg

Big sized box.

Size and head -
TK10sz.jpg
TK10hd.jpg

More compact than the T1 - with a removable "tactical grip ring", and more important for some a removable pocket clip.

There is a copper (colored) ring to replace the tactical grip ring so that threads are not exposed. Other spare parts are an orange tail cap, wrist strap, spare O-rings and a pair of spare screws for the clip as well as the corresponding allen key - these are all thoughtful touches - that seems to be a really welcome trait of Fenix.

OK, ok how does it perform?

Well if you were impressed with the Fenix T1 - then it's pretty fair to say you'll be just as impressed with the TK10.

vs. Fenix T1 both using primary CR123A and on High/Max
(I labelled it as "Turbo" in the beamshots, just so there is no doubt I am using the max brightness levels)
TK10_T1.jpg
TK10_T1U2.jpg

Not surprisingly they are about the same, the TK10 seems to have a slightly better tint - but this is merely samples of one - and open to the typical tint lottery. Of no real practical consequence is the characteristic Cree dark halo - otherwise the beam is smooth thanks to the orange-peel reflector.

vs. Fenix P3D-RB100 both on primary CR123A and Turbo/Max
TK10_P3Drb100.jpg
TK10_P3Drb100U2.jpg

the TK10 is brighter - but the Rebel100 has a smoother wider beam, and nicer tint.

vs. Fenix L2D-Q5 NiMH and Turbo
TK10_L2DQ5.jpg
TK10_L2DQ52U.jpg

again the TK10 is obviously brighter in comparison both in the brighter side-spill as well as a tighter more concentrated hotspot - due to the larger head and reflector.

vs. L1D-Q5 BUT on 3.7V Rechargeable Li-Ion 14500 - Turbo
TK10_L1DQ5Li.jpg
TK10_L1DQ5Li2U.jpg

I still think the TK10 is a bit brighter along with the same comments as the L2D-Q5 comparison.

Impressive light - looks and feels tough - feels better in my hand - even though the tactical grip ring might seem "gimmicky" - it worked well for momentary on.

I feel that Fenix probably listened carefully to the critques on the T1, and tried to produce the TK10 more in-line with the feedback.

I like that thought.
 
Nice job on your review !

:twothumbs


Now, it finally can be told !

:nana:



Bet this flashlight is gonna' be pretty darn popular.

_
 
+1, that is a great review. I enjoyed the side by side picture with the original T1. Even though I'm not in the market for one, I like that they made it more compact. But, no stainless steel bezel!?:shrug:
 
Great reviews. Now I am tempted to buy one for myself. This is not healthy on my wallet. Too many great lights and too many other things to consider... :)
 
Standardized Stairway beamshot -
StairFenixTK10.jpg
StairFenixT1.jpg

StairP3DceQ5.jpg
StairsSF9P.jpg

StairP3Drb100.jpg
StairL2DQ5.jpg


Color Removed/DeSaturated comparison -
StairFenixTK10deSat.jpg
StairFenixT1deSat.jpg

StairP3DceQ5deSat.jpg
StairsSF9Pdesat.jpg
 
I have a TK10 also.

I'm really impressed with the new Crees. They definitely have better tint than earlier emitters. Mine seems to match UnknownVT's as it compares to the P3DQ5 and the P3DRebel100 - much better tint than the P3DCree, not as good as the Rebel, but more throw than either.
 
I have a TK10 also.

I'm really impressed with the new Crees. They definitely have better tint than earlier emitters. Mine seems to match UnknownVT's as it compares to the P3DQ5 and the P3DRebel100 - much better tint than the P3DCree, not as good as the Rebel, but more throw than either.
I spoke to two Cree VIP's at the shotshow (nice of them to drop by our booth)
and I got the low-down on the new Crees without the phosphor around the die.

They told me those are the new Cree XR-E's that are mounted in asia.
The dies are still made in the USA (to preserve their IP), but they are
mounted in asia which will help their per unit costs.

My observations have been that the ring that is typical in all XR-E's is much
reduced or completely gone.

You know the theory with the phosphorus is that, the close it is to the blue
light source, the cooler the temperature and the further away it is
to the blue source, the warmer the light coming from the phosphor tends
to be. Thus thicker and thinner phosphor coatings on the die drastically
affect the color temperature. I believe that even the phosphorus around
the die is also reacting to the blue coming from the die. So these new
XR-E's not having the phosphorus around the die may have removed the
the dark ring. NOTE - this is just my guess :p
 
I did these comparisons more for trying to find out if running a P3D on 2x 3.7V rechargeable Li-Ion batteries would actually be brighter than the normal 2x primary CR123s - but here are the results I'll also paste the comparison with the Fenix P3D-RB100 on primary CR123A -

vs. Fenix P3D-RB100 on 2x 3.7V rechargeable Li-Ion RCR123 Turbo
TK10_P3D2RCR123.jpg
TK10_P3D2RCR123U2.jpg

vs. Fenix P3D-RB100 on 2x primary CR123 repeated from OP review -
TK10_P3Drb100.jpg
TK10_P3Drb100U2.jpg

I think these two pairs of comparison photos look about the same - the TK10 is brighter in both sets and I think the P3Drb100 looks about the same in both.

Just to be sure I put the P3Drb100 head on a L2D body and tried 2x 3.7V rechargeable Li-Ion 14500 -

vs. Fenix P3D-RB100 head on L2D body using 2x 3.7V rechargeable Li-Ion 14500 Turbo
TK10_P3D2x14500.jpg
TK10_P3D2x14500U2.jpg

another set that more or less looks the same as the two sets above - well not that surprising, since it is really just another 2x 3.7V rechargeable Li-Ion (only the capacities were different) - but I had to do it check.

So the P3Drb100 with 2x 3.7V rechargeable Li-Ion batteries is not brighter than on 2x primary CR123 - so compared to the TK10 the beamshots are about the same the original on the 2x primary CR123s
 
Since I have heard that the P3D series will run on 2x 3.7V rechargeable Li-Ion (RCR123) and tried it for myself (please see Post #7 and #8 in Fenix P3D-RB100 Rebel Comparison Review )

I also wondered if the TK10 would take 2x 3.7V Li-Ion rechargeable RCR123 - and if those would be any brighter than primary CR123's,
since there was nothing specifically warning against using 3.7V rechargeable Li-Ion's in the instruction sheet - I thought I'd give it a try -

TK10 on 2x 3.7V Li-Ion rechargeable RCR123 vs. T1 on primary CR123 both on Turbo/Max -
TK10RCR_T1.jpg
TK10RCR_T1U2.jpg

on Turbo/max brightness - these seem about the same level.

This kind of makes sense since the circuit in the TK10 (and T1) have to handle 2x primary CR123 - which is 3+3V = 6 V - this is way above the Vf of the LED - so the circuit has to lower the voltage down to the Vf.

With RCR123's at a nominal 3.7V each = total of 7.4V nominal - the circuit is also lowering that to the Vf - hence the same brightness on Max.

How about the Low level -

TK10 on 2x 3.7V Li-Ion rechargeable RCR123 vs. T1 on primary CR123 both on Low -
TK10RCR_T1Lo.jpg
TK10RCR_T1Lo2U.jpg

this pair of comparison shots on Low look almost the same as the pair above on Turbo/Max.

Again this shows that the circuit's behavior is the same as on high - ie: it lowers the voltage to the Vf, and regulates the current to the LED.
 
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Some current draw readings -

Primary CR123
Turbo = 0.75A; Low = 105mA
GUESStimate runtimes - Turbo = 1.33hrs; Low = 9.4 hrs

3.7V Rechargeable Li-Ion RCR123
Turbo = 0.53A; Low = 79mA
GUESStimate runtimes - Turbo = 1 hr; Low = 6.7 hrs.

Specs -
Turbo Mode: Constant 225 Lumens, 1.5 hours
General Mode: Constant 60 Lumens, 10 hours
 
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