Fenix TK20 Advice needed please. Not working.

yellow

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yeah, the "whack the light"-repair.
As shown in any horror movie, since there are movies - so it must work in reality, right?
fixes everything from dead batteries to delicate electronics (that should not be whacked, btw.) ...
:rolleyes:

actually that You noticed it getting dimmer and dimmer is a really bad sign.
that most likely is a bad thermal path of the led and thus it getting too hot and dying.

The light has to be openend (difficult; most likely electronics and led are glued in), if just the led is dead (and the electronics survived the open circuit!), one could remove the old led and mount/solder in an actual one.
 

defloyd77

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^^^Right. Though it may be something like a Q4-5A or B(A was rosier, B had more yellow). There weren't a lot of choices back then. Those tints were the first "neutrals", though often referred to as "warm". Warm whites had significantly lower flux rating at the time, as I recall(though my memory is questionable of late!).



Hate to say it, but if you've eliminated the switch, cleaned all the contacts, and tried it with fresh batteries, you may be out of options with that light.
If memory serves me correctly, it was the once oh so coveted Cree Q3-5A XR-E.

Heck for craps and giggles, I'd contact Fenix and see what they say. Couldn't hurt.
 

Owen

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Forgot, but these were Q2-5A, I just saw yellow's post that said Q4.
5A was as good as it got in its time. The original Zebralight and Malkoff "warms" were 5As.
It's funny, when Zebralight first introduced headlamps, I emailed Lillian Xu about whether they would use neutral emitters, and she said they had some, but weren't sure how well they'd go over. I encouraged her to try them, and got some special order H30w headlamps out of that exchange. Looking at the number of neutrals vs. cool whites they've had since, it looks like they went over pretty well!
 
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