Finally done! Well... Almost.

350xfire

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 14, 2008
Messages
1,229
Location
Texas
My magnetic switch powered XML is finally assembled. O rings come in this week! I took the delrin rings and machined them smaller. Also took some hex head set screws to set the outer rings tight. It works really well.
Now to assemble the lid-mounted light I am working on. It's nice to have canisters in. I have another 4 heads to assemble!

CanLightXML.jpg
 

Packhorse

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Nov 29, 2007
Messages
1,912
Location
New Zealand
Cool.

I really want to do a switch on the head instead of the can.

What I was thinking was putting the rotating ring hard up against the head.
Then cut a groove in the body just behind it to hold an O ring that would stop the ring sliding back.

Not sure how to put "stops" on the ring though, since the aluminium is so much thin I cant use the same method as my cans.
 

350xfire

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 14, 2008
Messages
1,229
Location
Texas
Yeah front mounted would look better. And the groving with oring would make it much thinner since you would not need the other 2 rings. You would lose the anodizing, but probably not a huge issues, just paint over the groove. Stops would be nice. This one is just a friction fit smooth turner.

I can actually remove quite a bit of the barrel, I was just playing it safe! next should be much smaller.
 

350xfire

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 14, 2008
Messages
1,229
Location
Texas
Taskled magnetic hall effect. I have since switched to the latching one. Best $10-11 I have spent.
 

350xfire

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 14, 2008
Messages
1,229
Location
Texas
Well, if you use that latching hall effect you can mount the magnets on the canister's cap and forego the "bulky" rings! But, heck, I can build a set of rings. On my next ones, I would make the rings a slip fit into each other. The outer two would have a smaller diameter section to fit under the middle one... May be...
 

lucca brassi

Enlightened
Joined
Feb 1, 2008
Messages
887
Location
Kocevje , Slovenia, Europe
Nice work !

How is thread cut in plastic dimensioned ? Have sharp edges or they are rounded . Asking because of that ( like some old plastic lamp upgrade )

http://www.ides.com/articles/design/2006/beall_12.asp

http://www.ides.com/articles/design/2007/beall_02.asp

any thinking about cylindrical power connector inside with sealed deck ? I'm thinking sometimes for myself to made two thin cones opposite to each other with rubber O ring between them . Lower cone sholuld have screw threads from frst and when tighten them , Oring will expand and clamp deck with connector........ and could be easy removable for balancing battery pack.
 
Last edited:

350xfire

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 14, 2008
Messages
1,229
Location
Texas
Thanks...
Lucca, are you referring to the rings? Those are just standard 4-40 threads. They are not meant to be worked.
Canister lid is M-16x1.5 to fit Agro. Again, not meant to be worked all the time.

Cylindrical power connectors, not sure? Why?? Just for balancing?
 

lucca brassi

Enlightened
Joined
Feb 1, 2008
Messages
887
Location
Kocevje , Slovenia, Europe
Cylindrical power connectors, not sure? Why?? Just for balancing?

Not fan of them but , when screwing lid ; even in low turns , cables and connectors become twisted. I' v read that most of problems in old HID lamps from H was caused from breaking of anderson connectors , pulling cables out....
In that case is also soldering litle risky because of possible break of joint (or just above joint) , better is crimping wires with forceps.
 

350xfire

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 14, 2008
Messages
1,229
Location
Texas
Not fan of them but , when screwing lid ; even in low turns , cables and connectors become twisted. I' v read that most of problems in old HID lamps from H was caused from breaking of anderson connectors , pulling cables out....
In that case is also soldering litle risky because of possible break of joint (or just above joint) , better is crimping wires with forceps.
There many other factors that affect wire breaks.
1. Number of turns- determines how much the wire is streched. The more you turn the more the wire is streched and strained.
2. Type of wire- use a really flexible wire...
3. Type of connector- most of the problems I see are with the cheap trailer plugs used by mainly 1 major manufacturer. These plugs really suck! I use Andersons and I solder them.
4. Cable length. The longer it is the more twisting you can have.
5. Size of the canister. Some manufacturers stuff their battery and cable tightly in their cans.
My canisters are large anough to allow for the battery to turn within it. You can also shake the canister as you turn it to make the battery turn with it... I have not had any issues with twist. Again, even if you get twist, you will have 2.5 turns.
 
Top