Finest close-inspection lights

rioimmagina

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Hello. It's been a while I don't partecipate. I'm in sabbatical, kinda... Along this stage, I noticed that my most used lights are the close inspection ones. And are the also the ones I'm very picky with. I shine close range to check my rc stuff, to illuminate macro photography, inspect chemicals, etc... flood, tint and size are key. Tunnel vision is very nasty and with some light it's unbearable.
Hence I'm just very curious about your preferred solutions. What do you consider the finest tool?
From my side, I'm doing pretty well with an E1e TNT triple 219 and a Ti S10 with frosted film on the glass... But maybe there is something better out there!
 

CelticCross74

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just to make sure I am getting your tint preference correct are you looking for a warmer halogen like tint or a light with as high cri(as close to natural sunlight as possible)as you can get? Plenty of lights in these categories. How much output power do you need?
 

CelticCross74

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the SC600FD isnt even out yet. I was going to start my suggestions with the simple cheap and effective Eagletac D25A Nichia 219 B11 cri92 for just $46.90. Multiple output levels going from high to low 88lumens-55-7-0.5.....guess we will have to wait to see just how much output OP is after
 

Str8stroke

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I think it is pretty hard to out do that TNT. That is a pretty darn outstanding set up. What is it about the TNT you don't like, if anything? Or are you just exploring out of curiosity? Budget??
 

rioimmagina

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The light many of us are waiting for is discussed here: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?414887-Zebralight-SC600Fd-III-Plus-XHP50

XHP50, 93-95 CRI, 5000°K, floody with frosted lens. This should do very nicely. [emoji144]
Looks cool. I still have the first sc600 in neutral. My most solid 18650 so far. However I would prefer smaller footprint for closeup tasks.
Actually the scattering film sold by a cpf fellow works pretty well to diffuse light. Yeah frosted lens are cool.
 

rioimmagina

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I think it is pretty hard to out do that TNT. That is a pretty darn outstanding set up. What is it about the TNT you don't like, if anything? Or are you just exploring out of curiosity? Budget??
The TNT is one neat light. Tana's art, this guy is a fantastic builder and a true gentleman. If I really had to dig out a criticism, would be the bulkiness and the odd proportion. You feel the military grade in a pretty civilian context.

I am curious to try a mule. I've read opposite comments so I guess it's a love/hate kind of deal. Finest product would maybe be the Mcgizmo AA. Sure it looks epic but I'm not sold on the electronic specs...
 

rioimmagina

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just to make sure I am getting your tint preference correct are you looking for a warmer halogen like tint or a light with as high cri(as close to natural sunlight as possible)as you can get? Plenty of lights in these categories. How much output power do you need?
My favorite tint is neutral white. Hi cri is a big aid when I work with tiny component and for photography.
More important, though, is the beam. Shining at close range and at high levels often results in hotspot, even for floody light.
 

Str8stroke

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I like your McGizmo idea. You do know you can get some different drop ins too. That is what I did with my Haiku. I wasn't too thrilled with the stock set up. Datiled made a Nichia drop in. It transformed the light for me. It went from a sometimes EDC, to main rotation along with my HDS, Hanko TT, TNT Triple, and Overready Triple E.
Oh, another great light you may like, would be the HDS Rotary 4K.

I have two of the Tana triples. Lovely lights. But if you really really want to step up a few notches, Look into the Overready Triple E series. You can get a Executive (less aggressive look and easier on the pockets). The light is bored to 18650 and you have almost unlimited programming capabilities.
Take a gander:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...opper-Surefire-E1e-amp-amp-E2e-(XPL-XGP2-219)

They aren't cheap, but these things produce a unbelievably wonderful wall of light. You can pick your led & program it to your perfect close inspection output. The copper accents make it just look great too.
 

rioimmagina

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I like your McGizmo idea. You do know you can get some different drop ins too. That is what I did with my Haiku. I wasn't too thrilled with the stock set up. Datiled made a Nichia drop in. It transformed the light for me. It went from a sometimes EDC, to main rotation along with my HDS, Hanko TT, TNT Triple, and Overready Triple E.
Oh, another great light you may like, would be the HDS Rotary 4K.

I have two of the Tana triples. Lovely lights. But if you really really want to step up a few notches, Look into the Overready Triple E series. You can get a Executive (less aggressive look and easier on the pockets). The light is bored to 18650 and you have almost unlimited programming capabilities.
Take a gander:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...opper-Surefire-E1e-amp-amp-E2e-(XPL-XGP2-219)

They aren't cheap, but these things produce a unbelievably wonderful wall of light. You can pick your led & program it to your perfect close inspection output. The copper accents make it just look great too.

There are drop-ins for McGizmo lights? That's really good to know. Thanks.
Of course, it is a bit annoying that you need to source a drop in for a high end, very expensive, custom light.
However, McGizmos are jewels and the man has outstanding record of professionalism (which I appreciate a lot, especially after dealing with some characters). If I ever visit Hawaii I will try to get a light from his very hands.

Fact is, many report the beam cone of mules being so wide that annoy the person using it, dazzling him, etc... so yeah, I'm still on the fence.

Yes, HDS with the scattering reflector (I don't really remember the name) looks cool but they're very big lights. Plus they're never available and I do not appreciate Henry's "Diva" business model. I have one rotary 250, it's awesome but getting an HDS is too much of a pain.

Oveready same. since two years I'm trying to buy a moddoo light as ultimate 18650 torch. It proved beyond my capability and patience. Their E-series is gorgeous but 18mm bore makes it ridiculously frail and I don't see extra value compared to TNT products.
 

ven

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Some awesome suggestions so I will try a different angle. I use triples and quads for close up work so not to get dazzled by hot spots(I love walls of light!)
Majority are 5000k and a couple of nichia triples.
Latest drop in I have has taken me back, xhp70 5000k de-domed. Now on lower modes and close to a wall, I can not find a hot spot! The beam is perfect to me, no artifacts, nothing like you can get close up with say a quad from the optics(this is real close up against a wall checking, so in real life uses its perfect!) Even at full tilt I am struggling to find a hot spot very close, a few feet and a wall of light.

Pick your host and chuck this in it, will require either 2x16340's or 2x1835's for food. Maybe not too ideal but for close up work ,lower outputs then run times should be fine. For a giggle hit the 100% mode and light up a field!
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...S-XHP-70-lt-Copper-P60-modules-3000-OTF-lumen!

My impressions and a couple of pics are at the end of the thread. Having a programable driver gives it that bit more flexibility . De-doming may loose 500k so to say around 4500k would not be too far out. It does not look warm, nor pure white, little towards the yellow. Rendition is great! Flood is astonishing....

If I missed any auto-incorrect my apologies , I caught the de-dining one! :laughing: damn phone !
 

rioimmagina

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I see that triples and quadruples are the most popular setup for ultra-flood lights. Well at least with very flood optic. My tri-edc has still a distinctive hotspot.
No big love instead for mules.
I wonder, then, which would be the tiniest triple or quadruple...
 

ven

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A few of mine, on the left , the smallest quad i have in diameter is the pd35vn , the smallest triple's on the right are the s2+


Now with the s2+ and an 18350 body


You have small triples!

Would love a mule, dont have one though...........yet!! Other than the DQG spy and fairy mules(10180 and too small)
 

bykfixer

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Had to chuckle a bit.

Completely dismissed...the Maglite Solitaire incan was the close up inspection light for the longest time. Still is by many. Toss in a fresh alkaline before a session and it makes a mighty fine shadow eliminator.

The mega diffused Elzetta Alpha on low is tough to beat. I've used it for the creamy tint a number of times to light up close photography items.

Both the Malkoff MD2 and SureFire G2x Pro on low do well also. Malkoff is way cooler. The SureFire bias your white balance in a green direction. But that's easy to fix when shooting RAW.

And speaking of SureFire, the PK inspired offshoot brand Icon had one called the Solo that looked like an inkpen from a Flash Gordon movie but it's low setting makes a mighty fine close up light. A bit on the gray side tint wise. Yet great for low contrast or pastel subject photos.


The solo

Me? These days I just dial my incan Brinkmann Legend LX to flood and have at it.

None mentioned cause that flashback caused when lighting up nearby objects for inspection work.

Seriously, try the incan Solitaire.
 
Last edited:

rioimmagina

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Had to chuckle a bit.

Completely dismissed...the Maglite Solitaire incan was the close up inspection light for the longest time. Still is by many. Toss in a fresh alkaline before a session and it makes a mighty fine shadow eliminator.

The mega diffused Elzetta Alpha on low is tough to beat. I've used it for the creamy tint a number of times to light up close photography items.

Both the Malkoff MD2 and SureFire G2x Pro on low do well also. Malkoff is way cooler. The SureFire bias your white balance in a green direction. But that's easy to fix when shooting RAW.

And speaking of SureFire, the PK inspired offshoot brand Icon had one called the Solo that looked like an inkpen from a Flash Gordon movie but it's low setting makes a mighty fine close up light. A bit on the gray side tint wise. Yet great for low contrast or pastel subject photos.


The solo

Me? These days I just dial my incan Brinkmann Legend LX to flood and have at it.

None mentioned cause that flashback caused when lighting up nearby objects for inspection work.

Seriously, try the incan Solitaire.
These are thoughtful suggestions.
I still have a mag solitaire incan somewhere. My first quality light! I will give it a try. I'm afraid, however, that the power wouldn't be enough.
I noticed, in fact, that close up operation with flood lights requires decent intensity. Not having a bright hotspot means that you actually need to "flood" your scene with light - hence power.
In my case, I dont operate in darkness, but I still feel the need of a flashlight to light up crevices and dissipate shadows.
The Elzetta alpha would be interesting to test. And there is general consensus about Elzetta's quality.
 

rioimmagina

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Also curious about macro photography lighting. What do you use for that now? I tried a diffuser with limited success.
For macrophotography I normally use my TNT, often at max power (around 300lm). The tint is just right and for small objects intensity is enough. I set the light source distance in order to cover the whole framing with the hotspot, to limit shades.
Sometimes I use two lights source, still from my fine tint/flood arsenal.
 

hemix360

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How about a Lens Light Mini 300 lumens max with pure flood or tight beam with cri, don't have one but am looking into it.
 

rioimmagina

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How about a Lens Light Mini 300 lumens max with pure flood or tight beam with cri, don't have one but am looking into it.
Yeah lens light always intrigued me. However I was never big fan of zoomies. I just saw the fenix fd40. Looks really interesting and the zoom mechanism seems sound. I prefer smaller lights anyway...
 

rioimmagina

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Finally I sticked the phaseburn's diffracting film on my TNT. Was kind of a quick job. It changed the beam drastically. No hotspot whatsoever even shining a white wall from half meters. I will test the rig in the next weeks...
 
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