Firearms battery

Lee1959

Flashlight Enthusiast
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I have my definite ideas of what this entails and I asked this on another forum out of curiosity. The different ideas were so divergent I thought it was very interesting and wondered what they would say here.

What is your idea of the perfect fiearms battery for the home, say a one person home. What does it consist of, what amount of ammunition for each item and why?

Make it a one person home, the firearms will be used for hunting, any woods use, and personal/emergency defensive use, and the person lives in a smaller apartment so storage space is limited (this is to make the number of arms, and rounds stored reasonable for normal persons).
 
Interesting questions.
My original starting battery consisted of:

1. Ruger SP101 3" .357 /.38 - Still my favorite . Multi-caliber, accurate, simple, built like a bank vault. If need be, concealable. Fits the hands of my wife and children. Very large variety of available ammo for .38 /.357.

2. Marlin 1894C .357/.38 - A companion rifle to the Ruger revolver. Rugged and reliable. Great all around rifle. Also very manageable by wife and children.


3. Ruger 10/22 - Accurate, reliable, and affordable. Low cost ammo. Great
training tool for novice shooters. Good for small game. And pure plinking fun.


4. Mossberg 500 Police and Military model /12 gauge- it's intended use is clear, but it was very good at occasional grouse and pheasant hunting as well.


5. Marlin 336C .30/30 - A good brush rifle IMO, easy to move about with, very useful as a hunting rifle and if pressed, home defense.


These were my early choices and I'm still quite happy with that selection. I'm sure there are as many varied opinions as there are firearms. :)
The fact is, that all 5 of the above firearms cost me less than $750.00 NIB at that time. Everything has become more expensive.
 
I have a Ruger P90, .45ACP, 8 shots with 7 in the spare clip. It's a Ruger, 'nuff said.

H&K "Pardner" 18" 12 gauge. 5 No 7 1/2 for in the house, 5 00 outside.
 
I would recommend a Glock 17 with Glaser safety slugs Blue. Mainly if you live an apartment, Glaser safety slugs Blue should always be used unless you won't to kill your neighbor.
 
Close range and you don't want to penetrate walls, 12 gauge with bird shot. at 10 to 15 feet it'll dang sure stop someone and make a mess of him too. But it's not going to be harmful after it hits drywall. So the next room is safe.
 
I have a side by side 12ga coach gun with 00 buck and a couple of 38 revolvers with 158gr HPs for SHTF. Unlike many folks, I want my bullets to penetrate in case the perp ducks behind concealment.
 
In this case I look at the perfect battery as the minimum for th average family as my perfect battery would be different than others.

The absolute minimum battery are the very first firearms that one should buy, and which would, if pressed take care of all needs if one never got another firearm. Now normally I suggest a new shooter buy .22 and practice practice practice. However, we all know that the average home owner will practice a minimum and expect the arms to do anything asked of them when asked, no matter how much maintenance they give it. Unrealistic, yes, but that is how it is, so with that in mind...

In this case I believe the first two firearms a new shooter should buy would be a pump action shotgun, minimum 20 guage, and a 3 or 4 inch barreled.357 magnum revolver.

The shotgun will with a variety of loads take any game on the North American continent, and will provide a very formidable defensive/offensive weapon. 12 guage is preferable but even most women can use a 20 guage if that is a consideration. There is a good reason that almost every settler had a shotgun, even if they had no rifle or handgun, it works and works well. Why a pump? If maintenance might be an issue I prefer a pump over a semi-auto.

The revolver will provide defensive, concealed carry, and hunting backup uses. Why a revolver? A revolver is usually easier for those who do not practice much to use, and more reliable for those who do not clean their firearms often. In my experience almost anyone, man or woman can find a .38 or .357 magnum loading they can shoot comfortably. A revolver is generally easier to use fo those who do not practice much.

After these two are taken care of, one can move on to others, perhaps a nice .22 to start...
 
Hello,
A lot of good suggestions thusfar.
If I was limited to keep only 5 of my current firearms, I might opt for:
- Colt Detective Special .38 spl: because it always works very well
- Hammerli 208 .22lr: maybe the finest .22 pistol ever
- Marlin 39A .22s/lr: shoots anything from zimmer and short to stinger
- Marlin 336SS .30-30: handy, fast and powerful enough
- Remington 870 Wingmaster 12/70: reliable shotgun

I could replace one or another with a Colt Python, Beretta 950, Remington 700bdl .222rem, Colt Diamondback, a (reliable) FN 1910, a Mannlicher 7x64 or ... but I guess I would feel quite at ease with these 5 listed firearms.

Kind regards,
Joris
 
My dad and I have had a similar discussion and here is what I believe I would go with.

A Ruger 10/22 carbine with or without scope. Great practice or small game rifle.

A Ruger Mark III .22 target pistol. Simple and reliable. Ammo compatible with above rifle and the ammo is cheap and easy to come by.

Either a Smith and Wesson or Ruger 4" barreled .357 Magnum revolver. Not the most "tacti-cool" but fairly reliable and able to shoot all types of ammo that some autoloaders won't.

A Remington 870 with two barrels. One a short slug model with iron sights and the other a 26" or 28" model.

A Benelli Nova with a 26" barrel. Ugly but it has replaced most of my 870's as my favorite hunting shotgun.

Last but not least. A Remington Model 7 in .308. Short enough to handle decent inside if needed but also an excellent all around medium range deer or mid size game rifle.

As you can see this is a shotgunner's and small game hunter's approach much like my father and I spoke about. We decided that you needed a good .22 rifle and pistol, a decent pistol for self defense, a shotgun plus a backup and a good deer rifle. If he were choosing I think he would have picked a Winchester Model 21 and a Benelli Montefeltro for his shotguns as well as a Springfield 1911 for his pistol but I was thinking more along my likes and my price range at this point in life.

Also I think this could change depending on what you are geared toward. A deer or big game hunter would want a backup rifle or two and probably only one shotgun. The same goes for someone who is only interested in target shooting and self defense. I primarily hunt birds and waterfowl and use shotguns most of all.
 
Some years ago we lived in Valdosta, Georgia, and the neighborhood turned bad. After two different people tried to break into our home while we were sleeping, I got tired of meeting them at the door with the 7mm Weatherby Mag, and I had a Remington 1100 in 20-guage modified for my defense -- the barrel was shortened and a Poly-Choke installed, it is now legal+1/4". Next, I added a 9-round magazine extension and a Weaver Quick Point.

I just have to show up holding this wicked thing and it really takes the wind out of the bad guys' sails.
 
The firearms in your battery will depend on what that battery is used for.

A supply for an infantry platoon for 90 days will be different from a Boy Scout Troop's 90 day supply.

Will you be training newbies? If so, try to get Airsoft or pellet guns that are almost identical to what you shoot.

Now, for the firearms.

For plinking, nothing beats a .22LR. It can be single shot, pump, lever, or semi-auto. .22LR ammo is MUCH cheaper than anything else. The Ruger 10/22 is one of the best .22LR rifles ever made, and its' price reflects it. .22LR is about the only rim-fire caliber I shoot. The rest are center-fire.

For hunting anything bigger than a rabbit that does not fly, the preferred choice is a center fire, scoped, bolt-action rifle in .308 or a similar caliber. Other options include .30-06, .243, etc.

For self defense (against humans, snakes, etc.) a handgun is ideal. The bad guys only need a gun for 5 minutes to rob someone, but a good guy need his/her gun 24/7 for years before something bad happens. Therefore, always be armed. There are 2 common kinds of handguns: semi-autos and revolvers. Please note that revolvers and semi-autos almost always use different ammunition. I like semi-autos for their flatter profile and their higher capacity. The names here are many: Glock, Beretta, CZ, Ruger, etc. Pick one you like, and that you can comfortably carry. There is a lot of talk about "stopping power" (except here at CPF.) Larger diameter bullets stop bad guys better, to stop the bad guy from harming your family. A .32 will be MUCH weaker than a 9mm (which is usually considered a minimum for self defense.) A 9mm will be much weaker than a .40 or .45. Having said that, correctly placing your shots will be FAR more important that using a large bullet. If you plan to carry a handgun, I suggest that you (1) learn the laws, (2) learn to carry it, and (3) compete in http://www.IDPA.com or a similar practical shooting sport.

A rifle is always better than a handgun. For serious self defense, serious fun in IDPA-style sports, or serious hunting (e.g., hogs) a semi-auto rifle is needed. Semi-auto rifles allow more rapid and (in the right hands) more accurate fire. Military style rifles are the best, as they are nearly indestructible. M1 Garands, M14s, FALs, H&K G3s, AK47s, and M16s are common. These weapons have a larger ammo capacity, are simpler, more rugged, and are often available surplus. It's a common misconception as to which is more powerful: an AK or a deer rifle. The AK is far weaker than the deer rifle, as the deer rifle has to stop a large, wild animal humanely. A military rifle only has to would a relatively weak and thin-skinned human. If man eating aliens invade, you will need an AK47. ;)

For bird hunting, a shotgun is ideal. I don't hunt birds.
Other shotguns are great for hunting small woodland & upland creatures. I don't hunt those little guys.

Still other shotguns are used for self defense. They are the most devastating weapons this side of C4. They have a limited magazine capacity, but if you need more than 6 rounds of 12 gauge you also need air support. 6 quick blasts from a pump shotgun will put more lead in the air more quickly than a full-auto UZI. An experienced shooter can switch between slugs for near-rifle-accuracy, buckshot for taking on large targets, and bird shot that will not penetrate walls. This versatility is unmatched.

Some specialty guns include pocket pistols (very small, .22 or .32 pistols,) varmint rifles (that shoot very small bullets very fast for picking off small woodland creatures at a fraction of a mile,) reproductions of military arms that do shoot, but really exist to look cool (e.g., MP44s and PPSH 43s.)

If I had a .22 rifle, a pistol, a deer rifle, and a shotgun, I would feel well armed.

Along with the firearms, get cleaning supplies, ammo, magazines, holsters, slings, manuals, reloading tools, and spare parts. The amounts of these depend on what you plan to use the guns for. During peace time, a gun is much more expensive than 1,000 rounds of ammo. During the "civil" war in the former Yugoslavia, an almost factory, NATO marked new Beretta 92F with 5 mags was traded for 3 mags of 9mm ammo. (During wars, ammo gets shot up, but guns last longer than the soldiers carrying them.) If aliens invade tomorrow, you would be better off with 2 guns and 5,000 rounds of ammo than with 5 guns and 100 rounds of ammo. ;)

Andy
 
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