First impressions, Maratac Rev3 aaa Copper

jon_slider

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34 grams with an Energizer Ultimate Lithium.
IMG_6780.JPG


It is unreliable. Sometimes, instead of turning on, there is a quick flash and then nothing. When I turn it back off, another quick flash. I have cleaned the head and threads repeatedly. The problem persists. It is not consistent.
watch


I wanted a light that would tail stand and had a hat clip. The Maratac clip interferes with tail standing when the clip is in hat position, it sticks out too far. The light will stand, but just barely.
IMG_6824.JPG


The threads are smooth, but the Oring is very tight. I have trouble turning the light on and off with one hand.

I compared the Maratac beam in my kitchen, during an overcast afternoon to my Olight i3s and Thrunite Titanium, all on high. All with Energizer Lithium

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The three musketeers
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Thrunite Titanium is 23 grams with battery, the Olight is 20grams.
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General observations. The threads on the Olight are the smoothest of the 3. The Thrunite is the grittiest, the Maratac the tightest resistance to turning.

The Maratac keyring clip sticks out sideways in a way that is not comfortable to operate the light, though it has a benefit that it prevents the light from rolling. I prefer the Olight and Thrunite keyring attachments.

I can not smell the Maratac's Copper on my hands at all. I also can not detect the PWM, so far.

The mode sequences and lumens are as follows:
Maratac 40-1.5-138
Olight 20-85-0.5
Thrunite 0.5-12-162

imho at this stage of my learning, the Olight is the one I would buy as a gift. Its only downside is the pocket clip kept popping off, so I superglued it.

The thrunite has an awful beam color, but, I really like the titanium, the knurling, and the reversible pocket clip.

The Maratac is a disappointment, Im debating returning it. That decision depends partly on whether it continues to fail to turn on. I have cleaned it repeatedly and it has improved, but still is not 100% reliable.

Anyone with experience getting Maratac to stop failing to turn on, please share. I would rather keep it, just because it is Copper.
 
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thedoc007

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The Maratac is a disappointment, Im debating returning it. That decision depends partly on whether it continues to fail to turn on. I have cleaned it repeatedly and it has improved, but still is not 100% reliable.

Even if you want to keep it, you should do an exchange. I've had intermittent problems like that before (with other lights), and if cleaning doesn't cure it, the driver is usually the problem. It isn't likely to get better...and in my experience, it usually gets worse. Return it early, and you get a lot less hassle.
 

Str8stroke

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Never had these issues with mine. I have had several. I run eneloops.

Have you tried a different battery?? Non lithium, and make sure that it doesn't have a dented button top.

Also, the threads on Ti lights are gonna always have a gritty feel.

I can't get your google links to work.
 

jon_slider

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Thanks for suggesting I exchange early. I sent Maratac the video and asked if I can do anything to make it reliable.
I think I figured out how to make the links work, please let me know.
I did try both Alkaline and Lithium batteries. It seemed like the Lithium failed more often, usually on high. But both batteries cause failures.

I tried swapping the problem lithium into my i3s and it works fine. The lithium from the i3s also fails on high in the Maratac. Seems the Maratac does not like my lithiums. Its being pretty reliable on a cheap radio shack alkaline, but I dont trust it, and I dont want to use alkalines.

fwiw, an alkaline is 11 grams, a Lithium is 6, and I think an eneloop is 12 grams. I dont own any eneloop or I would try them to see if the Maratac likes them.

ps, whats the trick to removing the keyring? I found this, but the pic is gone:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?243941-a
I'm 2 for 2.


Thread a paper clip into the opening at #1


lift #2 up out of the notch - pull away from tail with the paper clip


DSCF2533-1.jpg
 
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jon_slider

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A little info on swapping the Maratac clip and using a Thrunite clip instead.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-U18wKGiU89g/VTfD2upPUHI/AAAAAAAAI_g/0lt04mepE7k/s912/IMG_6839.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mb-ze8Wa1KM/VTfCBENMuUI/AAAAAAAAI_U/AeEgmEtmuY8/s912/IMG_6837.JPG

the Thrunite clip is not as wide as the slot on the maratac, so the clip wont hold tight to a hat, it pivots away. I dont want to glue the clip on.
The Thrunite clip is only slightly shorter, and though it allows tailstanding more easily, it is still touching the surface the light is standing on. The Maratac clip has the same issue when the clip is in pocket position, it touches the surface slightly.

So, when a Maratac clip is in hat position, no tailstanding. If tailstand is desired, the clip has to be removed from hat position. The tape all over the Maratac is because the knurling was making my hand raw. The light is so hard to operate one handed, it is almost non functional unless 2 hands are used.
 

Str8stroke

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Good idea with the clip. Looks like getting it to tail stand wouldn't be difficult. If you have vice you could easily bend the tip up. Or cut it and file it back smooth. I have done this a few times.

Want to make it operate one handed?? No problem!

My Personal Tips on smoothing the threads. I have tried several methods. All work within there own rights. I made some nasty threads super smooth, especially on copper.
The best method I have discovered is by: Removing battery and orings, I gently wire brush ALL the threads using a brass brush. Then blow it out. This removes any loose burrs from manufacturing. They can actually be most of your problem. I find this mostly on cheap aluminum lights.

Then I put some course car polish compound (small amount) on threads. Just to be safe, I put painters tape to cover the driver (were the battery contacts). You don't want compound on there if you can help.
The compound I type of is that white gritty stuff they sell at auto parts store.
Then screw the head on and twist & untwist until your wrists are sore.
Then clean it up and do it one more time until carpal tunnel sets in.
Then, before you go to ER, clean the threads with windex, DON"T LET THE POLISH DRY too much, its a pain to get out.
Final step: add Nyogel or Dielectric grease. Don't forget to put Mr. Oring back.
They can be made buttery smooth.
You will know its working, the light actually gets warm in your hand. lol
FYI: I almost tried tooth paste or baking soda, but I stumbled upon the car polish in the cabinet.

Titanium: I did the same and got pretty darn good results. Some of my Ti lights (including expensive ones) have felt pretty knarly. The worst was my Fenix E99. When I got it, I thought I must have bought it from the Beach Boys, it seemed like it had beach sand in the threads. But, my patented, AS-SEEN-ON-TV thread smoothing plan worked.
 

jon_slider

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Great thread smoothing info, thanks! I may try the polishing compound on my titanium thrunite.

The Maratac threads are very very smooth already. I'm impressed. But the O ring is very tight. The Maratac operated one handed if I leave the O ring off.

And yes, I could modify the pocket clip on the Maratac by grinding it shorter.

However, this Maratac still fails to turn on in high mode if I use lithium batteries.

So, no tail stand, no one hand operation, and no lithium batteries in my Maratac. Sad.
 
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thedoc007

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That is weird...I was a little concerned after reading all your issues...but mine is excellent. Tail stands quite well with the clip attached (as shipped, no changes on my part). Threads are extremely smooth, I'd call them buttery...if not the absolute smoothest of any light I own, quite close to it. I ordered one GITD diffuser, and they shipped two.

Could be a bit more polished...but not bad, at least the smooth surfaces are shiny. Overall I am quite pleased with it, considering the inherent expense of solid copper, I think the price was reasonable.
 

jon_slider

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Update
Contacted County Comm, they suggested cleaning out excess grease. I did it with a qtip of alcohol, upside down, then dried it with another qtip. Right after that it failed again on the 2nd test cycle. But now it seems to have been failing less, and Im so in honeymoon phase, I dont want to let go of this pretty piece of copper goodness. Im starting to really enjoy this light, currently using the Lithium, and if I dont cycle it too many times, it works fine for actual use.

I recommend this light, despite its shortcomings, the copper is beautiful. Im using it without an O ring because it makes it easier to use one handed. The threads are beautifully smooth. I like that the pocket clip will go on in hat position, and even though it wont tailstand that way, I can flip the clip, Im not trying to keep this one as a safe queen.

Ive added a neodymium magnet to the base, with double sided tape. Just having fun playing around with my new toy. The magnet on the base also helps with tailstand, the clip is not sticking out as far.. Not sure if the magnet is a keeper, it keeps grabbing stuff around me, knives, keychains, my other lights.. apparently batteries like magnets too :)

Yay Copper! Its Oligodynamic
IMG_6871.JPG
 
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jon_slider

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I was a little concerned after reading all your issues
Thanks, Ive appreciated your support, truth is, I arrived with issues that go beyond flashlights, lol. Youre witnessing my newbie first steps, hopefully the pictures are worth it :)
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jon_slider

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Copper looks really nice,I like this one!
Thank you for taking the time to look at the pic links.
if you like patina it will begin to look like this
thanks for posting pics, that patina looks great! Ive been reading up on how to make verdigris happen.. something to do with vinegar, ammonia, salt.... Not to start any arguments over forced patinas :)

Im waiting to see how much patina my hands make first. Ive only used a jewelers cloth at this stage:
IMG_6903.JPG
 

Str8stroke

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I did some with your formula. Ammonia fumes over night. Get clear ammonia if you can. I used sea salt. Miracle Grow also works awesome. Just wet it and put it on.
 

jon_slider

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looking good.

Thanks for the kind words and inspiration.

fwiw
I looked up what kind of copper Maratac uses.. its 99.99% pure, and has no lead and no arsenic, no zinc either.
http://www.countycomm.com/aaacopper.html
"Flashlight body is machined of solid billet ultra conductive pure alloy 101 copper."
http://www.mcmaster.com/#8964kac/=wxqew9
IMG_6996.PNG
 
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jon_slider

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The silver spring was in the Maratac. It was very gritty to turn on, due to the pressure on the battery. I can now easily use the Maratac one handed and it is much smoother, with the Olight i3s spring. The Olight arrived with 2 springs, I noticed the battery stuck up more than usual, so I ended up with a spare spring to use in the Maratac, without sacrificing the Olight. I had noticed that the Maratac was smooth to turn the threads with no battery, but gritty with a battery, so surmised the grinding was not the threads. Got lucky on this one, made the Maratac even nicer to use..
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