First Impressions Wurkkos Orange TS10 V2, w RGB Aux and 4000K LEDs

So, I got my TS10.
Its one of the Ti/Cu vesrions. Cute little light. I wish it worked.
When you press the tailcap, you get epilepsy disco, flashing RGBs and mains. Gotta hold the button down for it to do anything, won't stay on. It will ramp though.
I checked the threads, thinking there might be some machining detritus in there, gave it a good cleaning, but didn't see anything untoward and it didn't help any. My guess is a faulty switch.
I sent them an email, we'll see what transpires.

Suffice to say, me dipping my toe in the Anduril pond hasn't gone well so far.
I do have a fresh new FW3A SS from our friend in Hawaii though, so I'll get to play w/ that once I get some cells that have max10A rating to feed it. I guess it's picky, he put a big sticker warning DO NOT use cells rated over 10A, and then was nice enough to ship it w/ a Molicell 35A 18650 inside. Glad I checked.
I'm not complaining, though. Those are great cells and a real value add. Just can't use it in the light it was inside apparently.

So far, Andy eludes me.
 
My guess is a faulty switch.
sorry to hear your light does not work properly

hopefully you will receive a free replacement. Wurkkos usually ships a replacement promptly, after you provide a video of the problem. If you need to contact someone other than customer service, Wurkkos Terry can help expedite.

fwiw, here are some common issues, and their solutions
 
sorry to hear your light does not work properly

hopefully you will receive a free replacement. Wurkkos usually ships a replacement promptly, after you provide a video of the problem. If you need to contact someone other than customer service, Wurkkos Terry can help expedite.

fwiw, here are some common issues, and their solutions
Thanks for the links. I'll dig into that and see if anything helps.
 
fwiw, the disco you describe is a symptom that the inner body tube is not making good contact

if you are using the stock battery, the issue is probably at the tail and can be fixed by disassembly and cleaning out any glue that may be blocking electrical contact, or preventing the tailcap from closing all the way.

However, the tail is glued and may be difficult to open. And it is not your responsibility.. otoh once you get the replacement, you will end up with two for the price of one, and will probably be able to fix the issue.

fwiw, this is what the 3 tailswitch parts look like (on right):
bc3a7c67c8e7846af8017e148b42305503707b36.jpeg

You probably dont need to pull the inner tube out, but if you do, there are a couple of O rings to deal with. One in a groove inside the outer tube, that will need to be kept in place. And one at the tail end, that needs to be manipulated not to end up too close to the tail end, so it does not get inbetween the raised collar on the inner tube and the shelf on the outer tube.

The O rings are just there to space the inner tube away from the body. otoh if during assembly the inner tube trapped the upper O ring on the shelf, that would prevent the inner tube from seating deeply enough to protrude properly at the head end, to reach the pill.

At the head end the inner tube should be sticking out by about 2.5mm past the threads:
IMG_6461.jpg


this is a post that describes a similar issue:

"My TiCu TS10 also exhibited weird behavior, and it turned out to be an issue with the switch. Since the tailcap is glued on, I couldn't properly diagnose it. Wurkkos was really good about sending me a replacement light (which worked fine), and after that I decided to break the glue and get the tailcap off of the original light. It works fine now. My theory is that the tailcap was not tight enough before the glue set at the factory."
 
Last edited:
fwiw, the disco you describe is a symptom that the inner body tube is not making good contact

if you are using the stock battery, the issue is probably at the tail and can be fixed by disassembly and cleaning. However, the tail is glued and may be difficult to open. And it is not your responsibility.. otoh once you get the replacement, you will end up with two for the price of one.

this is a post that describes a similar issue:

"My TiCu TS10 also exhibited weird behavior, and it turned out to be an issue with the switch. Since the tailcap is glued on, I couldn't properly diagnose it. Wurkkos was really good about sending me a replacement light (which worked fine), and after that I decided to break the glue and get the tailcap off of the original light. It works fine now. My theory is that the tailcap was not tight enough before the glue set at the factory."
Beat me to it.
 
I just received my TS10, charged the included 14500 cell and spent a minute playing with the light...and for once I find myself needing to keep the auxiliary RGB LEDs switched off.

At any aux mode, the light just races through the colours like crazy. A litteral (disco) party piece. None of my Emisar lights are like this - the aux LEDs on all of them just slowly cycles through the colours. Even the on turn-off battery voltage indicator.

And I see the appeal for disabling the Turbo (or even High), as this little light gets really hot really fast!

Was considering this one, among other options, for car key duty, but I see no way to attach it to a keyring, so this "Wurkkos TS10 SG Limited Christmas Red and Snowflakes" (I think that is the full name...) will be confined to a shelf as an art piece together with my Emisar D4K Copper.
 
the light just races through the colours like crazy. A litteral (disco) party piece.
7H from Off, will cycle through the RGB Aux color options.. I suggest either the battery Voltage color (immediately after Disco), or Red (immediately after Voltage color)
Screen Shot 2025-01-20 at 11.39.47 AM.png

or you can turn the Aux off completely (7C from Off):
Screen Shot 2025-01-20 at 11.41.08 AM.png


and or you can also turn off Post Off Voltage Display (shows battery voltage color for 4 seconds after turning off the light). To disable this feature the light must be put into Advanced mode first.

aux.png


Note that if you put the light in electronic lockout (4C from off), the Aux will blink.. this can also be changed.

If this is your first Anduril light, you may want to read the online manual for an overview of the capabilities

Sorry I did not warn you there is no keyring attachment on the TS10... If you want an AA/14500 light with that feature, look at the Skilhunt H150 or M150
 
Last edited:
7H from Off, will cycle through the RGB Aux color options.. I suggest either the battery Voltage color (immediately after Disco), or Red (immediately after Voltage color) or you can turn the Aux off completely (7C from Off):

If this is your first Anduril light, you may want to read the online manual for an overview of the capabilities

Sorry I did not warn you there is no keyring attachment on the TS10... If you want an AA/14500 light with that feature, look at the Skilhunt H150 or M150
No worries. :)
Bought the TS10 mainly because I was already ordering other lights from Wurkkos (a trio of FC11C's), and I liked the look of the Christmas themed TS10. And thank you, but I am familiar with Anduril (as I said above, I got several Emisar lights), though I haven't explored all (or even most) of the features.

Already cycled through the aux modes, and decided on disabling the off-aux on this one. I always keep the post-off voltage indicator as it is a handy feature. But the colour cycling speed in all of aux modes - high, low or blinking - is way faster than on any of my Emisars, which is the issue on this light.

I've already derailed a D3AA thread a bit, asking for a keyring light and listed my considerations - and asking for options or opinions on the D3AA vs my considerations - so I wanted to stay on-topic here and just share my first experience with a TS10. I already looked at the Anduril control chart, and it doesn't seem like there is an aux LED-timer, or speed adjustment for the aux RGB.

I think I can manage making a short clip of the rampant aux-RGB if yours aren't like that.
 
Last edited:
glad you got the Aux set to your liking ;-)
the colour cycling speed in all of aux modes - high, low or blinking - is way faster than on any of my Emisars
agree
Anduril keeps changing, there are newer firmware versions than on your older Emisars...

There are even different firmware versions on different TS10 models...

a note of caution regarding the factory default firmware on the TS10SG (0713-2023-07-29). It has Advanced Smooth Ramping Ceiling mistakenly set to Turbo (150/150), I recommend changing that to 120/150..

Even better would be to reflash to newer firmware.. (but that requires a special flashing adapter, not the same as for most Emisar lights ;-) )
 
Last edited:
Anduril keeps changing, there are newer firmware versions than on your older Emisars...

There are even different firmware versions on different TS10 models...

a note of caution regarding the factory default firmware on the TS10SG (0713-2023-07-29). It has Advanced Smooth Ramping Ceiling mistakenly set to Turbo (150/150), I recommend changing that to 120/150..

Even better would be to reflash to newer firmware.. (but that requires a special flashing adapter, not the same as for most Emisar lights ;-) )
Oh no, please don't tell me Anduril is doing the same nonsense as so many game companies does it with patches and sub-patches? I know of Anduril 1 and 2, but not of Anduril v.1.2.3 or Anduril v.2.3.11 or such nonsense. Makes it hopeless to easily identify which version one has.

I am aware the Anduril firmware can both be identified and flashed, but I am not interested in doing that on a flashlight. Frankly, I prefer not to flash firmwares, not even the BIOS on a motherboard, unless I have a specific issue that is adressed in a later version. And that is even supposed to be easy to do these days - yet last time I tried, I managed to brick a $400 motherboard, despite following the manufacturer's recommended method to the letter (got my money back on that one).

My TS10 came stock with stepped ramping (not sure whether it currently is in Simple or Advanced mode). I've changed ramping from Stepped to Smooth on both my Emisar K9.3 and DT8K, as I preferred that on those particular lights, so I am familiar with (at least) that feature.

The complete Anduril control scheme still gives me headaches, when trying to comprehend all it can do. ^^
 
Last edited:
oh yes ;-)

some TS10 ship w firmware 0713-2023-07-29, which has Turbo allowing 100% FET

newer TS10 have begun arriving w firmware 0000-2024-04-20, which has Turbo limited to 50% FET

if you want to verify the firmware version on your TS10SG, do 15C from off and observe the first 4 numbers it blinks out
 
if you want to verify the firmware version on your TS10SG, do 15C from off and observe the first 4 numbers it blinks out
Can you give me some more info on that, please. I tried the 15C, and it started blinking red between flickering white.
Are the white flickers (which are really bright and hard to look at btw.) just a pause, so I should count the number of red blinks?

Found an Anduril tutorial on Youtube, but the red and white on my light completely threw me off compared to what I saw in the video and what I expected my light to do. And the white flickers are so bright, my eyes doesn't fully adjust by the time it starts blinking red again.

Since I don't know exactly how it is supposed to look (first time I'm trying this), mine is probably 0713. Got to something like 1-6-1-3, but the damn thing gives me almost a jump scare every time it starts the white flickering.
 
Last edited:
Are the white flickers (which are really bright and hard to look at btw.) just a pause, so I should count the number of red blinks?
yes.. that sounds right.. the red flashes are numbers, the white buzz is the divider between the 4 digit model number, and the 4 digit year, and 2 digit month, and 2 digit date

your light will either blink 0713 of 0000 for the first 4 digits.. the rest of the numbers are posted above, but the first 4 digits are sufficient to know if your light has 100% FET or 50% FET (because there are only 2 possible firware dates for the TS10 lights currently shipping)
 
Thanks, my particular light got the "problem version" as I understand it then. Won't be a problem, I don't plan on running this on Turbo unless by accident anyway.

This light I wanted Stepped, so if the Advanced Smooth is the problem, it won't be one for me.

EDIT:
Okay, my TS10 is just weird. Did a couple 7H cycles just to see if I could fix the rampant aux-LEDs that way, by switching colour mode.
And at first it raced through the colours like at a rave party ("release at desired colour" - yeah, good luck with that!), but on 3rd round, the aux-LEDs suddenly settled down to the normal tempo, just like my Emisars. Now the off aux-LEDs slowly cycles through like I am used to.
 
some TS10 ship w firmware 0713-2023-07-29, which has Turbo allowing 100% FET

newer TS10 have begun arriving w firmware 0000-2024-04-20, which has Turbo limited to 50% FET
Thanks much for pointing this out. My new TS10 V2 (4000K, black aluminum) is notably less bright on Turbo than my old one (also 4000K, black aluminum), and I've been thinking that something is wrong with it, but it turns out that it has the newer Turbo-limiting 0000 firmware. A few of the Andúril 2 default settings are different as well.

Newer batches of CSP2323 LEDs seem to have an iffy reputation, but I lucked out: the new 4000K LEDs are slightly warmer and creamier (a faint ivory tint) than the old, with scarcely a hint of tint shift -- a rare tint lottery win for me.
 
it has the newer Turbo-limiting 0000 firmware. A few of the Andúril 2 default settings are different as well.
yes, the 2023 firmware has advanced smooth ramping ceiling set to Turbo (150/150) by mistake..

the ramp shape also changed with the new firmware, so ceiling 130 is about 400 lumens now (which I think is very good). the 2023 firmware ceiling gives about 600 lumens, which I think is overkill..

congrats, glad youre happy w the LEDs

and thanks for informing that a now shipping black TS10 has the new 50% FET firmware.. imo it is a better option than the 2023 firmware
 
Top