1: The Convoy S2. I have two with almost exactly the same configuration, that I barely use and never carry, because they're severely outdated, but I can't even consider doing away with them. One I got as a gift from treasured family and is my second driver swap ever, the other was my first programmable EDC. They both have a 4000-4500K XM-L2 and a 7135-regulated Biscotti 12-group driver, and they have the perfect length for my grip and the complete shroud around the switch (unlike the "ear flaps" of the S2+) both feels good and makes them tailstand very stably. The deep reflector concentrates the spill very nicely, with the XM-L2's side the beam looks almost like a narrow TIR's.
Now I prefer the S2+ with a TIR for carry, but S2 is still great for what they are. Both remain as blackout lights around the house, for my mother to use. That way she doesn't have to faff with my more complicated UIs.
2: The Convoy S21E MAO. For one simple reason: the MAO has worn on the tailcap threads, so it doesn't physically lock out by unscrewing, I have to take it off completely to cut off the circuit. To prevent accidental activation – which has happened in the past, the light was on in my pouch practically in Turbo mode and I had to let it cool off –, I have to resort to the electronic lockout, i.e. mash the switch until the torch blinks. That's inconvenient and annoying to say the least, so much so that I ordered
another S21E with regular anodizing to replace it as a regular side switch EDC.
At the same time, though, the 719A in the MAO one is pure beautiful sunlight in a can, the finish has a chalky, grippy, secure feel on the hand that no anodizing can match, and it's just darn purdy! So no getting rid of it either... although I would never get any e-switch lights in MAO (as it exists today) again, and I'll caution every single soul in the hobby to do the same. I only recommend it for physical switch lights where the switch serves as mechanical lockout.
I have an S21A and an M21B both in MAO as well, and while they don't lock out by unscrewing the tailcap either (tested after the S21E incident), the mechanical clicky tail switch is well-covered so it doesn't activate on accident nearly as easily.
Oh heck yeah.... My Thrunite TT20.
Literally the closest thing to a true tactical light with a side-switch as well as a main tailcap switch. When you engage the tailcap switch on Turbo mode, that side-switch gets disabled! Won't work! Can't accidentally hit it in the heat of the moment and have output instantly drop to a lower setting. Doesn't matter if you full-press that tailcap switch, or press slightly for momentary-on. It was perfect!
However Thrunite decided to folk it up by putting two idiotic protruding ears on the tailcap switch. They had it! It was practically perfect, and then they screwed it up. The beam pattern could have been improved too. But that is so very minor compared to how they screwed it up. So instead of meeting its full potential, it is just a somewhat large, clip-carried, EDC rechargeable light that instantly gives access to 3 different modes. Turbo from the tailcap. Program the side-switch for a lower level when you press it. Press and hold that same switch for moonlight mode.
Sounds good, doesn't it? It is! But it could have been sooo much better! Like an attractive young woman with a brilliant brain who could have become a very accomplished and respected doctor. Saving countless lives.... But instead she decides to open up an O.F. account and post feet pics., instead.
Still, the light is a personal favorite and it still sometimes gets carried. (As far as I know, it's the only side-switch light with a tailcap switch that does that. Side-switch fully disabled while main switch is engaged.)
While it wouldn't do anything for the model commercially, why don't you saw or grind off the ears? That'll make it a lot more attractive for you to carry. A dremel with the right head can chew through the aluminium lickety split.