Flashlights for photography

[howg2211]

I am thinking of trying my hand at night photography and was wondering if someone might recommend a flashlight or two for light painting. Yes, I know there are a gazillion posts on this, but that is the problem, there are a gazillion. You start reading and before long you don't know if you should be looking at LED, incandescent, how much power etc. I need a basic recommendadtion for a strong light, relatively lightweight with good output that I could use to paint say trees or a small wall or building with light for photographing. Could someone help me out with a specific recommendation or two for a flashlight that would fulfill these criteria for, say, under $100?

I sure would appreciate it.

I have heard of the basic Maglite.....is this all I would need and, if so, anyone suggest a model.

Thanks.

Howard
http://www.howardgrill.blogspot.com

 

[Heck]

it depends on what you're trying to "paint" but most of the time when I do such photography, I need a tight spot with no spill so that I "control" what I paint. I usually use a Pelican and even then I put a cone around the bezel to minimize side light.

 

[redranger97]

I recently took some nighttime photos using my L2DCE which i covered with a colored lense that i had laying around from one of those garrity or brinkmann walmart lights just to see how it'd work and it worked perfectly and the amount of light was more than adequate. However, the photos i took were pretty close up so i'm not sure how well it'd work if you are wanting to illuminate the inside of an entire room or something on that scale.

 

[howg2211]

I would want to paint some medium sized trees or a stone wall...perhaps as large as a side of a barn...any specific recommendations for this size object?

Howard

 

[Uncle Bob]

I have a 9 volt, Energizer incan lantern with a wide beam that would fill the bill for a project like that. It's the model that doubles as a flashlight/lantern. Wide beam = wide brush.

 

[cqbdude]

I would love to see some pics......:rock:

 

[howg2211]

Uncle Bob, is there a specific model. Likewise to the rest of you folks who are taking the time out to help...I appreciate it...specific models would be most appreciated!

Howard

 

[wakibaki]

I use flashlights as miniature spots for macrophotography. A lot of LEDs and driver chips are targeted at flashes for camera phones. They have a quite acceptable color rendition. I have a couple Cree torches, one is a bit green and the other a bit purple when looked at side-by-side, but they mix ok with daylight.

You probably don't want an incandescent unless you're doing B/W or you really need a lot of light, the color temperature will almost certainly be an issue, although you don't say whether you are intending film or digital. The trouble is, even the Crees are a bit puny to get much done in say 30 seconds and the noise goes up with time if it's digital. I can paint an area of about 4 metres square to an adequate exposure at f2.8 and 50 ISO in 30 seconds with my dx Cree ELLY (LORSUND) which is a cheap start but a long wait for an uncertain result if the feedback is truly representative. Mine, however, works great, and while it's a bit ugly, if yours works well as as mine you won't regret your 10 dollars, even if you never take a photo with it. You can get quite a lot more light from a Fenix...

I'll post the photo of the back yard tomorrow, whenever, v.busy, mumble...

w

 

[vtunderground]

In my experience, a wide flood beam works best. Otherwise you end up with lines and streaks of light in the photo. My three lightpainting lights are a Surefire L4, a Princeton Tec Surge, and a 2-million CP spotlight with diffusion film on the lens.

 

[howg2211]

Going to be doing digital.

vtunderground, the TecSurge and CP are about the same price, under $50, but the Surefire L4 is much more expensive. What are the differences and what situations do you use the L4 in that the others don't do as good a job for. Is it purely a light output issue or are there other factors?

Thanks.
Howard

 

[Patriot]

I point my two Costco HIDs at the ceiling sometimes. I think that's how I got the picture of my avatar.

 

[vtunderground]

vtunderground, the TecSurge and CP are about the same price, under $50, but the Surefire L4 is much more expensive. What are the differences and what situations do you use the L4 in that the others don't do as good a job for. Is it purely a light output issue or are there other factors?

I usually use the L4 when I want a pure white light, and the Surge when I want a nice warm tint.

And the 2-million candlepower spotlight when I nothing else I have is bright enough.

 

[Uncle Bob]

Uncle Bob, is there a specific model. Likewise to the rest of you folks who are taking the time out to help...I appreciate it...specific models would be most appreciated!

Howard

My lantern is out of production but I believe Energizer/Eveready continues producing similar models. I refer to the one that converts to flashlight or lantern by sliding the surrounding body to a different bulb exposure position. You are more apt to find a product like this at a hardware or home supply store.

Flooding light with wide beams is the way to go when painting with light. You get more even illumination of a large area.

 

[Heck]

I think what you guys are talking about is not "painting with light", but rather area illumination.

Painting with light usually refers to setting the camera on long exposure and using a tight spot to illuminate a certain object by outlining it or filling it in.

 

[kosPap]

well +1 for the cone around the bezel....the longer the more siodespill it removes.

On the other hand, and had I tried my Palmblaze already, I would recommend it.

It gives a square beam and only that. If possible you can vary its size by moving closer or further and adjusting illumination accordingly.

best of luck with your efforts, and I would not mind a link to some "painting with light" projects of yours...

enjoy, kostas

 

[Uncle Bob]

I think what you guys are talking about is not "painting with light", but rather area illumination.

Painting with light usually refers to setting the camera on long exposure and using a tight spot to illuminate a certain object by outlining it or filling it in.

That's true but you can also "paint" larger areas, especially architectural subjects like homes, garages etc., the insides of caves, any large area that you want totally illuminated. You don't need to limit yourself to a "tight spot," although that may be appropriate for certain subjects. It depends on your intent.

Using a flood style also can help to elliminate shadows if that is your aim. Industrial machinery is often painted to eliminate shadows from wiring and metal supports etc.

I was a corporate photographer in another life, so I am familiar with the technique. Hope that clears up some confusion.

 

[Echo63]

i have never tried painting with light, but i would imagine that if you wanted to balance the light colour then you would need and incandescent at night, and Led to match up with daylight or flouro light
unless you wanted to go the other way

 

[Minjin]

Can you guys show some pictures created using this technique? I still have no idea what you are talking about but I would like to learn.

 

[Uncle Bob]

Can you guys show some pictures created using this technique? I still have no idea what you are talking about but I would like to learn.

Sorry, I don't have examples to show. I also think the best way to learn is not necessarily in this forum but by heading down to the library and investigating some good books on the subject. That's not a cop-out. Some things are better learned by examining a good book that can explain the whole process instead of getting info in dribs and drabs here.