Sold/Expired For Sale..Titanium Bodies For EX10...

Nephiel

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Feb 12, 2009
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Received mine today. :twothumbs
Now to wait for the innards... I hope the ones from the upcoming EX10 R2 version fit ;)

By the way, which hex key should I use to remove the clip screws?
1.5mm is too small. 2mm and 5/64" are too large. 1/16" is the closest I've found, but it's a bit small and feels like it will slip. I decided not to push it and ask first.

Also I'd like to know what size are the threads on those screws, just in case I need to find a replacement.
 

Zot

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Sep 17, 2006
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ISO standard finish Titanium Body For EX10...

If anyone here decides to let go of one of the standard finish bodies please PM me.
Thanks.
 

russtang

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Dec 3, 2005
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Received mine today. :twothumbs
Now to wait for the innards... I hope the ones from the upcoming EX10 R2 version fit ;)

By the way, which hex key should I use to remove the clip screws?
1.5mm is too small. 2mm and 5/64" are too large. 1/16" is the closest I've found, but it's a bit small and feels like it will slip. I decided not to push it and ask first.

Also I'd like to know what size are the threads on those screws, just in case I need to find a replacement.

The screw use a T7 "torx", not hex.
 

russtang

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I have One Body in stonewash finish available. First "i'll take it" gets it.

It was the one I used to take pictures with. >SOLD<
 
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Nephiel

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Feb 12, 2009
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The screw use a T7 "torx", not hex.
:oops: :stupid:
I have T8 and T6 screwdrivers, tried them before as well but didn't mention it because the screws looked more hex-shaped than star-shaped, so I assumed they were hex. Do you know the thread size?

BTW, I was thinking of something like this to isolate the piston and restore twisty/momentary operation.
 

russtang

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:oops: :stupid:
I have T8 and T6 screwdrivers, tried them before as well but didn't mention it because the screws looked more hex-shaped than star-shaped, so I assumed they were hex. Do you know the thread size?

BTW, I was thinking of something like this to isolate the piston and restore twisty/momentary operation.

That looks like a good way to isolate, if it is thin enough. I will have to see what the threads are for sure.
 

ehallspqr

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Feb 7, 2009
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Hello I will take one of the washed Ti EX10 bodies. I sent you an email to your website along with an order I placed there. Can you ad this to my existing order? When I get your reply I will do the PayPal. Thanks. E.H.
 

xcel730

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Mar 21, 2008
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Hello I will take one of the washed Ti EX10 bodies. I sent you an email to your website along with an order I placed there. Can you ad this to my existing order? When I get your reply I will do the PayPal. Thanks. E.H.

This page hasn't been updated, but from what I know is all of the Ex10 bodies are sold (both bare Ti and Stonewash). Your best bet is post a WTB (Want to Buy) here and see if anyone wants to sell theirs.

By the way, you just join CPF and already you're a McGizmo fan ... that's pretty quick!

<edit> When I say post a WTB here, I mean at the Custom B/S/T, not literally here. :)
 

ehallspqr

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Thanks ecel1730. I see that now. I was buying through his website and decided to add the Ti housing to my order. Bummer. Longtime admire of McGizmo and decided to finally be an owner. Great lights, art meets design.
Anyone want to sell their Ti- EX10 body?
 

xcel730

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Thanks ecel1730. I see that now. I was buying through his website and decided to add the Ti housing to my order. Bummer. Longtime admire of McGizmo and decided to finally be an owner. Great lights, art meets design.
Anyone want to sell their Ti- EX10 body?

McGizmo sure does make some beautiful and functional lights. You should post your WTB here: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/forumdisplay.php?f=40 instead.

You're just one week too short. I sold my stonewash Ex10 last week because I wanted the bare Ti instead. If you're patient enough, one will show up.
 

sideman7

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Jan 7, 2003
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I got mine yesterday, and I'm quite impressed!!! I am still waiting on a stock EX10 to arrive, so I installed a trit and some glow/epoxy mix on the piston today. The offset slot does give a unique look...

Day:
EX10TritDay.JPG


Low light:
EX10Trit.JPG


After charging the glow section:
EX10Glow.JPG
 
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Zeruel

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Good idea in filling out with GITD epoxy. :thumbsup:
 

Nephiel

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Feb 12, 2009
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Good idea and very nicely done. What brand of epoxy and glow powder did you use?

I would add a thin layer of GITD epoxy around it as well. That way it would look like a Power symbol.
 

sideman7

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I did the same thing to mine and I used Devcon 5 minute epoxy. I took out the piston and wrapped the edge of the piston button with tape so the epoxy wouldn't flow out the end and it worked perfectly. The powder was from here.
http://glowinc.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=3

That's exactly what I did... A little tape around the side, and the edge will be shaped perfectly. The hardest part is that the epoxy ends up being a fairly strange consistency once the glow powder is added, and filling the slot can be a challenge (it doesn't pour, I have to pack it in there). Once I got it filled, I added the trit, and lightly pushed it in the slot to just below the surface. When it dried, I took a soft buffing wheel on a dremel and removed whatever epoxy was sticking up above the top of the piston.

The epoxy is nothing special, just some 5 minute stuff I have in the house for other things... The glow powder is ultra green from Glow Inc. that I bought years ago. A one ounce bag that never seems to get smaller no matter how much I use it...
 

Nephiel

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Feb 12, 2009
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I finally got a stock EX10 R2 to get the innards from. They fit the Ti body just fine :thumbsup:

I used the spare o-rings that came with the stock EX10 instead of the ones that were installed in it. The thick one for the piston, and the thin one for the head.

Funny how the spares were different from the installed ones :confused:
The o-ring installed on the stock head was too thin for the Ti body, but the spare was just right.

Also cleaned the blue grease and replaced it with Super Lube teflon grease. Piston operation feels smooth, not hard to press at all.

There was no spare for the transparent o-ring that sits behind the glass. It fits, but I replaced it with a 5/8" GITD o-ring. It's a tighter fit than the stock one - I had to use the rubber sole of a slipper to tighten the bezel.

I tried isolating the piston to restore twisty/momentary modes. I used packing tape around the piston, below the o-ring, and a washer cut from thin clear plastic around the button. It worked.

However, the added thickness of the washer prevents fully tightening the head (need to loosen it 2 turns to have enough travel for the piston to operate). Also, since the button surface on top of the piston is exposed, if any metal (e.g. a coin) touches the button and any other part of the light while it's twisted off, it turns on. If it happens to be set up at max brightness, the contact produces pretty sparks :poof:

I guess I could grind off 0.5mm of the bottom lip of the piston to recover the travel, and isolate the top of the button with a layer of epoxy, but for now I've decided to remove the isolation.
 
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