Foward Click for solarforce L2?

[bikenjam]

Does anyone here know of a forward click switch that will work in a Solarforce L2 tail cap?

thanks

 

[kosPap]

damn... I do not have my flashdive to get the links of my switch mods...

do search in this subforum for 2 of my threads..one must be soemthing liek "various flashlight forward clickie mods"
and "solarforce forawrd click mod"

for a dro-in solution try loacting the Fenix or HetBeam forward click switch nodule..it drops right in...

 

[old4570]

HERE

 

[kosPap]

indded but he is going to need a board to solder that on...have you tried the regular switch SLF board compatibility?

 

[bikenjam]

"have you tried the regular switch SLF board compatibility?"

What is SLF?

 

[old4570]

You need to drill a hole , solder a bridge , and cut the nipple of the inside of the rubber boot ...

Hmmm - Sounds like a DIY guide needed .

 

[fatts]

I'm pretty sure a Jetbeam Pro Forward Clicky is a straightforward drop in replacement. At least it was for my Spiderfire L2 host.

 

[kosPap]

yes others have said that...and I can veriofy by my mods that you need to remove the rubber nootie nipple...But I use a selfmade spacer to posotion propery tha switch assembly and regulate height/sensitivity

old4570...you I do want one on the SLF board

 

[Black Rose]

I'm pretty sure a Jetbeam Pro Forward Clicky is a straightforward drop in replacement. At least it was for my Spiderfire L2 host.

Where do you get the Jetbeam switch?

I have 2 Spiderfire L2 hosts and absolutely hate the feel of the switches.

 

[old4570]

1 Is the location for drilling a hole , and to bridge the switch to the spring .
2 Is using one of the original holes , which is contact for outer contact ring on the edge of the board , this should be fine ...

Pictures are of a forward clicky mod I did to Solarforce tailcap ...

Pull the old switch off , then use the new forward switch to carefully locate the hole that needs drilling , once drilled , solder the switch into one of the original holes [ yes you'l know which one ] . Then bridge the other one to the spring .

 

[Linger]

Jetbeam forward switch (included as extra with my pro ST ibs), also available from Bugoutgearusa $6 (poster in marketplace)
MG PLI forward switch (included as extra with my PLI)

are both drop-in replacements that I have used

With shorter cells a spacer or a longer spring threaded into the switch spring will cut down on 'de bounce.'

-L

 

[kosPap]

and for reference I should add that the Spiderfire Tailstanding Switch that is solf in Ebay has a PCb that can readily accept the forward switch old4570 uses...

Left the Fenix one, middle the spiderfire board, right a completed mod

the same again

 

[fatts]

Where do you get the Jetbeam switch?

I have 2 Spiderfire L2 hosts and absolutely hate the feel of the switches.

I purchased mine from Brite Lumens. It's called the "JET III Pro I.B.S. forward clickie switch" on his website.

As kosPap mentioned though, you will have to trim the existing rubber boot nipple, but that's simple enough. I forgot about this step, so perhaps you can't quite call it a straight drop-in replacement. My apologies.

 

[Black Rose]

Just an FYI.

The forward click switch for the Romisen RC-N3 can be installed in the tailcap of the Spiderfire X-03/L2. I haven't tried it in my Solarforce L2s yet.

Even though the spring is much shorter than on the stock Spiderfire switch, I was able to use it with an 18650 cell powering a 5-mode R2 drop-in.

Can't beat the $1.35 price tag either

 

[kosPap]

are you sure you are talking about te N3? I tried it in L2. C1, and the spiderfire tailstanding tailcap and it is nowhere near....

maybe the F4 one?

 

[Black Rose]

Yep, it is the switch from an RC-N3.

Bought it from Shiningbeam as a spare for my RC-N3 flashlight.

I just put it in there to see if it would work in the regular Spiderfire X-03 tailcap and it did.

 

[Kalzoaman]

Greetings all, im new so please have some understanding. I have just purchased a new solarforce L2P and would like to order a foward clickie too! I also bought a Cree R2-WC 3-Mode drop-in. any idea if this is a good choice and easy install http://www.lighthound.com/McGizmo-McClicky-Switch-Module-with-rubber-boot_p_1232.html

I am a little confused any help would be great

 

[Winx]

Greetings all, im new so please have some understanding. I have just purchased a new solarforce L2P and would like to order a foward clickie too! I also bought a Cree R2-WC 3-Mode drop-in. any idea if this is a good choice and easy install http://www.lighthound.com/McGizmo-McClicky-Switch-Module-with-rubber-boot_p_1232.html

I am a little confused any help would be great

:welcome:

I disassembled my L2P tailcap and tried to put McClicky somehow with the original parts. I can't figure how it could be possible without parts from the other tailcap. I suggest to buy Spiderfire X03 tailcap because it uses about the same size rubber boot (diameter 16mm). You'll need to shorten the nipple of the rubber/silicone boot. Look for "Spiderfire Clicky Switch for Surefire G&P" at ebay. I believe Spiderfire S1 tailcap in solarforcestore.com is the same.

I made a forward clicky mod for L2P with parts listed here. Link to KD forward clicky. Solarforcestore.com sells also the tailstanding tailcap. The 2-mode board used in Spiderfire tailcap isn't good for KD clicky switch. It might work but I'm not sure about it.

Another choice could be McClicky switch with adapter from Electronguru. I don't think that would fit either without mods. You'll probably need some washers to rubber boot side and the retainer ring from L2P to lengthen the switch module.

28mm*2mm multilayer coated lens from Kaidomain is a good replacement for a normal glass lens.

 

[Norm]

These are a direct replacement FS: custom made forward-clicky switch for SF P/G/C/Z tailcap
Norm

 

[Kalzoaman]

Hey Thanks, what do you guy think of the dx Cree R2-WC 3-Mode + 0~100%

K