Fraz Labs Mechanical Flashlights (formerly QTC Non-Battery Crush)

[KITROBASKIN]

ecmp,

A tail switch is not in keeping with the nature of this flashlight, though a talented individual could modify one. Its simplicity of function and use took may iterations in order to fulfill the design goal.

The 26650 Lumenite ll has a 20mm board according to the website. The others are described in the thread here on CPF. Hopefully someone will come forward with that information.

The website also describes the optics used for the different models.

Emitters are listed, for which one can research. Given that there are no changes to the battery output other than connectionst/material circuit resistance, consider that batteries give whatever the path allows; maybe someone has measured it?

The body lip makes contact with the brass(?) piston. A well used sample will show contact wear. It is maybe two thirds of a rotation? Plenty of room for adjustment.

The weight of the 18650 QT-L is more than the usual aluminum compact single emitter 18650 flashlight, but feels fine; maybe a similar weight to a high end flashlight. Its length is very close to a similar side switch.

The Lumenite ll is pretty beefy and a little longer than the QT-L. If you haven’t already, take a look at images I posted second page December 20th showing them on a balance beam in the thread

State of the art, today?

For me, the most radical lighting technology advancement lately would be LEP, Laser Excited Phosphor. Considering the time that Muyshondt was considered the latest and greatest, probably the best thrower out there was saabluster's DEFT lights. Now, these LEPs have nearly twice the CD and in a...

www.candlepowerforums.com

 

[KITROBASKIN]

Personally? It would be so wonderful if Fraz Labs made a medium thrower like about the size head of a Convoy C8, using a smooth reflector and maybe an sst-20, nice cast Osram little W1 or W2 guy, or dedomed 5700K 519a (though that is much warmer color temperature than what they typically use). I do not have a clue if those LED’s would be compatible.

Most brass (which Fraz Labs has used) is about 60% copper, though it is not as conductive as the more pure copper.

Use a credit card to special order a QT-L 18650 in silver? You bet!

Maybe there is an alloy using silver with the appropriate hardness. Melt down the swarf for jewelry? Machine in silver the piston, board contacts, and battery positive contact? Is there an LED that could handle that electrical flow? Don’t forget a silver plated beryllium copper spring.

 

[ecmp]

Thank you for the insight Kitrobaskin!

Additional wishlists would be ruler like markings to determine QTC health.

An easier way to monitor battery voltage than dmms and pulling out the battery.

Second on the silver and beryllium copper spring!

 

[KITROBASKIN]

Yeah, really, aluminum flashlights are the way to go but it is fun to talk stuff like this.

 

[ecmp]

For non-obsolescence, would aluminum still be the way to go?

 

[kerneldrop]

For non-obsolescence, would aluminum still be the way to go?

I’m not sure what that means, but you probably wont see an LED live an extended life due to copper’s thermal properties.

Plus the copper lights become too heavy. It’s kinda like big carry guns…eventually everyone goes back to smaller and lighter.

 

[ecmp]

I’m not sure what that means, but you probably wont see an LED live an extended life due to copper’s thermal properties.

Plus the copper lights become too heavy. It’s kinda like big carry guns…eventually everyone goes back to smaller and lighter.

Since the MCPCB can easily be replaced with newer ones, as well as the other parts, Fraz can keep up with the times. Other lights would have to be replaced when newer, brighter, and more efficient LEDS enter the market.

Anodized aluminum would be dinged and scratched over time. Bare metal like brass and copper can still be polished.

 

[KITROBASKIN]

They have made brass flashlights; definitely a suitable option but weight is a factor. Less of an issue if you get the short battery models.

So far, they appear to be using a quality, thick anodizing that has been great for me, though I avoid drops and clashes more so than the average person when it comes to the most excellent flashlights we have available these days. But truly, scratches and dings are part of a life well lived.

 

[TimeOnTarget]

The ability to easily change emitters is a unique feature, and a major selling point IMHO.

As a flashlight fanatic, I certainly hope to add one of these to my collection.

 

[kerneldrop]

Since the MCPCB can easily be replaced with newer ones, as well as the other parts, Fraz can keep up with the times. Other lights would have to be replaced when newer, brighter, and more efficient LEDS enter the market.

Anodized aluminum would be dinged and scratched over time. Bare metal like brass and copper can still be polished.

Fraz labs is geared towards a different customer base. I’d probably look at a Hank light for what you’re after

 

[KITROBASKIN]

Hank light = intl-outdoor.com
Really nice stuff, many choices for emitters. Current favorite is D1 but the quads are nice as well as others.

 

[ecmp]

Hank’s do not have drop in emitter. Great choice for really dialing in features found in most all lights plus more. Perfect for EDC with wide emitter choice, small form factor, and extensive configurability.

Fraz’s would be for passing on from one generation to the next. Upgradeable. SHTF worthy add on.

 

[jon_slider]

drop in emitter

fwiw, it is a little more complicated than that..

It is actually a drop in mcpcb, that has been prepped by reflowing an LED and adding solder blobs to the contact pads. After that the mcpcb/LED assembly can be bolted into the Fraz.

We do not have to do our own LED reflow, we can buy a 16mm mcpcb with a 3V LED already installed, from places like Kaidomain.

Here you can see a bare LED (top), and the LED installed on the 16mm mcpcb (left). Note the contact pads are flat, they do not come with solder blobs preinstalled:

link to the 519a source

The contact clamps the Fraz uses, do not work directly against the bare solder pads on a new mcpcb.

 

[ecmp]

fwiw, it is a little more complicated than that..

It is actually a drop in mcpcb, that has been prepped by reflowing an LED and adding solder blobs to the contact pads. After that the mcpcb/LED assembly can be bolted into the Fraz.

We do not have to do our own LED reflow, we can buy a 16mm mcpcb with a 3V LED already installed, from places like Kaidomain.

Here you can see a bare LED (top), and the LED installed on the 16mm mcpcb (left). Note the contact pads are flat, they do not come with solder blobs preinstalled:
View attachment 41924
link to the 519a source

The contact clamps the Fraz uses, do not work directly against the bare solder pads on a new mcpcb.

Thank you for all this!

To clarify, “reflow” is not needed when buying a ready made mcpcb/led assembly?

Checking out solder blobs.

How does one determine which 16mm mcpcb is compatible? ie., 1, 3, 4 leds, optic pair, mounting holes, amps? Why 3V LED and not higher ones? Asking because 18650 is 4.2V plus at full charge. And to know which 18650 amp rating would match a particular mcpcb/led assembly.

The Lumenite 2 at 26650 would be using a bigger diameter mcpcb? Would led options in a larger mcpcb be brighter / have different drain options or does a bigger battery only mean longer runtimes?

 

[jon_slider]

> To clarify, "reflow" is not needed when buying a ready made mcpcb/led assembly?

correct, reflow is a type of soldering, used to attach the LED to the mcpcb

> How does one determine which 16mm mcpcb is compatible?

by copying what is inside the Fraz, as described on their website.. which is One 3V LED on a 3535 mcpcb

> Why 3V LED and not higher ones?

because, afaik, the Fraz is designed for 3V LEDs

> The Lumenite 2 at 26650 would be using a bigger diameter mcpcb?

yes on their website:

Lumenite II

The largest flashlight we manufacture.

frazlabs.com

it says "Samsung LH351D on 20mm board"

> does a bigger battery only mean longer runtimes?

afaik, that is correct.. the battery is the same voltage, and uses the same 3V LED as the smaller lights. However the larger light uses a larger optic, so the beam shape may be different.

these are just my understandings from reading their website, I dont own a Fraz.. suggest you confirm by contacting Fraz directly (this is a sales thread that they do not reply to very often)

 

[ecmp]

Thank you for the clarifications and replies! Hopefully Fraz gets to check and reply to emails! Their page has an QT-L Gold 18650 with specs listing 18350 as the battery type. Though might be eyeing Lumenite 2 in brass / copper and changing the mcpcb/led to something with higher cri with both flood and throw.

Since there are no added microchips for regulation, how does everyone keep things in check and what are the dangers to watch out for?

Overheating - damaged battery? explode? turn down brightness when it feels too hot?

Low voltage - periodic tests with volt meter? Use protected batteries?

 

[jon_slider]

> Their page has an QT-L Gold 18650 with specs listing 18350 as the battery type.

I see that.. clearly a typo in the webpage

> changing the mcpcb/led to something with higher cri with both flood and throw.

the flood and throw are set primarily by the Optic, not the LED.. the stock LED IS high cri.. IF you dont like the tint, you might prefer a 519a LED, that I linked with the photo of the LED and mcpcb from kaidomain

> turn down brightness when it feels too hot?

correct

as stated on their webpage:
"This light will get hot if left on direct drive for long periods of time.
DO NOT LEAVE ON DIRECT DRIVE UNATTENDED."

That means do not turn the light up to maximum, and then stand it on a table, because your hand is part of the safety system. If it gets too hot, you are supposed to turn it down. As a general rule of thumb, maximum output is for brief uses. Maximum is not a Sustainable output.

> Low voltage - periodic tests with volt meter?

yes. You might be able to notice that the light does not get as bright, when the battery gets low. And yes, cross correlate your observations with Volt Meter readings until you get familiar with the way the light behaves when the battery gets low. imho, you should recharge any time it goes below 3.6V.. do not make a habit of draining below 3.0V

as stated on their instruction page: https://frazlabs.com/goldnugs/

"NOTICE: Always make sure the light is completely off after use. It is possible to get levels of brightness not noticeable unless looking directly at the LED bulb. Letting the battery completely drain may cause damage to the battery, so make sure it never gets fully discharged."

> Use protected batteries?

I do not think they fit, too long,
IF they did fit, protection might shut the light off when you try to use maximum output.

The light requires an educated operator. Our Brain is the protection circuit.

suggest you contact Fraz to confirm my understandings

Based on your questions, you might be better off with a light that has built in Low Voltage protection, will step down when the battery gets low, so you notice, will blink to remind you when it is time to recharge, and will NOT get hot enough to hurt anything.. For example an HDS Rotary.. fwiw, there is a really nice one, with a 519a LED for sale here: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/hds-hdsrb-elzettas-peak-rovyvon-for-sale.482231/ I recommend getting the body tube offered in that listing, that is drilled for a pocket clip.. stock HDS rotaries dont come with a screwed on pocket clip option.

 

[KITROBASKIN]

Interesting conversation.
Having an slightly older QT-L and a Lumenite ll, the throw on these two general purpose flashlights look very close, with the Lumenite putting out a larger hotspot. When the Lumenite ll was first listed, I believe the emitter was said to be an SFT-40 and really not sure what is in mine.

 

[KITROBASKIN]

Table standing has never been a heat issue but the qtc is in place; not yet tried direct drive.

Having several previously not used (for years) protected 18650’s, it is great to use them again. Still need to be aware how much they have been run for longer battery life down the road. None of this is worth sweating about. Knowledge is key.

It really is amazing how low output these can function. Daytime use is where I have noticed after dark that the flashlight is still running. Just need to unscrew a little farther after you think the circuit is open.

 

[jon_slider]

I believe the emitter was said to be an SFT-40 and really not sure what is in mine.

the SFT-40 has a flat LED chip with no dome


the LH351d has a dome:


> protected 18650's

great to know that protected 18650 fit and work in your lumenite 2.. your first hand experience is most helpful..

do you also have a Fraz that uses 18350 batteries, and do protected cells fit it? (I dont know which QTL battery version you have, there is an 18350 model and also 18650)