Fraz Labs Mechanical Flashlights (formerly QTC Non-Battery Crush)

[ecmp]

Would a 1/8” or 1/4” lanyard hole across the tail switch be in line with nature of design?

Is the Lumenite 2 heavier at the head or tail?

 

[jon_slider]

1. ...I use mine every day and play with them a lot and a single piece wears out after a couple months.

.... I regularly carry a Peak El Capitan

does the QTC in the El Capitan also wear out in a couple of months?

We use a variety of unprotected, beat to death batteries that we've torture tested lights with over the years and we've never had one discharge past 2.2ish volts

2.2V is not good.. I would definitely recommend using protected batteries

 

[KITROBASKIN]

September 22nd this past year was the first time I posted about getting a used QT-L. I am still using the same QTC and presume it had been used a bit before my purchase. It has been an experimental process involving strong torque at times to see how bright it would go.

Because of experimenting with various lubricants to see how those effected the ramping consistency, this unit has been played with a lot. (Currently using some kind of switch grease Randy at the former PFlexPro gave me; seems like there is something of a break-in period usually)

It´s also important to note that the QT-L continues to be my nightly dog walk navigation light, with a compact thrower to see far on occasion. The Lumenite ll was used on dog walks maybe a dozen times but now is primarily a table stand/ceiling bounce light at the end of the day and before sunlight in the morning. So nice to be able to adjust low initially in the morning, then typically increasing after progressing through the getting up procedure.

The QTC is sticking around for me.

 

[PattPickle]

does the QTC in the El Capitan also wear out in a couple of months?


2.2V is not good.. I would definitely recommend using protected batteries

I'm yet to wear out the QTC in a Peak. It's integrated a bit different in the Peak and I don't use my Peak lights as often. They are my tool lights. The El Capitan is carried every day but gets used maybe 3-5 times daily. I've carried it for a couple years now. The Fraz lights get played with a lot. I would guess 40-50 actuations per day minimum. I also change the emitters once a week or so for fun.

 

[jon_slider]

I also change the emitters once a week or so for fun.

Thanks for all the info, sounds like youre having a great time w your lights..

have you tried a 519a yet? I recommend the 5700K domed. it is also really fun dedomed.. (here is a dedoming technique that works well)

 

[PattPickle]

Thanks for all the info, sounds like youre having a great time w your lights..

have you tried a 519a yet? I recommend the 5700K domed. it is also really fun dedomed.. (here is a dedoming technique that works well)

I’ve tried every 519 except the 3000k. With and without the dome. I prefer dedomed. Currently I have a 4000k 519 DD in my brass Nugget and a Sw45k in my aluminum Fraz. 👍

 

[ecmp]

Thanks for all the info, sounds like youre having a great time w your lights..

have you tried a 519a yet? I recommend the 5700K domed. it is also really fun dedomed.. (here is a dedoming technique that works well)

I’ve tried every 519 except the 3000k. With and without the dome. I prefer dedomed. Currently I have a 4000k 519 DD in my brass Nugget and a Sw45k in my aluminum Fraz. 👍

What would be the specifications to look for to determine if an mcpcb / led / optic would be compatible?

 

[jon_slider]

What would be the specifications to look for to determine if an mcpcb / led / optic would be compatible?

When I buy LEDs, my first selection criteria is that I want it to be High CRI. That means I choose either a Nichia 519a, or Nichia 219b.

I then decide what Color Temperature (CCT) I want. Here are a number of 519a LED CCT, both domed and dedomed, so you can see the colors of the beams:

you can also see there is an sw45k (Nichia 219b 4500K) in the middle. It is my personal favorite LED.

Like PattPickle, the 519a and 219b are my go to LED options.

 

[ecmp]

Thank you jon_slider,

Impressive collection!

Is there any that won’t work?

As long as it is 3V, 20mm (for Lumenite II), and single emitter, everything would be ok?

For high CRI… what would be thoughts on Nichia E21A 4000k at 98 CRI?

 

[kerneldrop]

I tried an SFT40 in one and the beam pattern was not compatible

 

[ecmp]

@speckacuda @fraz

Since Lumenite II can fit 18650, 21700, and 26650 batteries, would it be possible to have a longer body and accommodate 26800 batteries as well?



Went through earlier threads and came across pocket clips, lanyard holes, and carry concerns. Lumenite II is also quite thick in the body for lanyards. Can something like below be machined:

 

[ecmp]

I tried an SFT40 in one and the beam pattern was not compatible

@kerneldrop how was the beam pattern not compatible?

 

[ecmp]

The LED board is 20mm, and the reflector is a GAGGIONE (we use both LLC07N Narrow Collimator Ø 35 mm narrow beam PMMA collimator and LLC17N, I think that's the faceted one). I am trying to get Fraz on here for an in-depth explanation, but if he doesn't then I'll be back with some more info in a bit!

Anybody with beam shots please?

View attachment 39161


View attachment 39162

View attachment 39164
Here's the tailcap screwed all the way in., and all the way out (below).

View attachment 39165

Also, there's a tailcap removal tool on the site free to download and 3d print (if y'all need one and don't have a way to print it, let me know and I will try to get one out in the mail to you). Any other questions, just ask!!

For the shorter 18650 / 26650, would the tailcap remain screwed all the way in?

For the longer 21700, would the tailcap remain screwed all the way out?

If planning to use 26650 exclusively, would a shorter tail or thicker tail cap be available?



I have a few of these great lights and honestly I take the QTC out and just run them full power.

@thermal guy

How long before it gets too hot to handle?

 

[KITROBASKIN]

Experimenting with protected versus unprotected batteries for the QT-L resulted in having the tailpiece screwed out but not ‘proud’ of the end of the body for protected cells (basically the edge of the tailpiece aligned with the lower chamfer of the inner edge of the body. Guessing about a millimeter in for unprotected but experimenting with different adjustments one will find not creating enough spring tension for the battery is not good.

Night before last, we tried direct drive. Very subjective assessment is that it does not give essentially any more throw that I can tell (know that this is a general purpose light not built for throw) and total lumens may very well be more but not a big enough difference for me, given that this QT-L is for navigation primarily, and that situational awareness is enhanced the lower the lumens can be set while still lighting the path.

 

[KITROBASKIN]

New QTC

 

[KITROBASKIN]

Well used QTC. I do not find it to be magnetic but the bearing surface on the engine seems to attract what looks like a magnet in the piston?

 

[ecmp]

Experimenting with protected versus unprotected batteries for the QT-L resulted in having the tailpiece screwed out but not ‘proud’ of the end of the body for protected cells (basically the edge of the tailpiece aligned with the lower chamfer of the inner edge of the body. Guessing about a millimeter in for unprotected but experimenting with different adjustments one will find not creating enough spring tension for the battery is not good.

Night before last, we tried direct drive. Very subjective assessment is that it does not give essentially any more throw that I can tell (know that this is a general purpose light not built for throw) and total lumens may very well be more but not a big enough difference for me, given that this QT-L is for navigation primarily, and that situational awareness is enhanced the lower the lumens can be set while still lighting the path.

@KITROBASKIN

Thank you for sharing! Being able to adjust for protected and unprotected is a great feature. For across battery types though, the difference would be more significant. Adjusting for length of unprotected 26650 vs length of protected 21700. Would there be a depression of the tailcap by 5mm for 26650 batteries?

How long was it run on direct drive? With the bigger bulk and wireless design of Fraz, hoping that it would dissipate heat significantly better than other brands with the same battery/emitter. Thus Fraz could be run longer on any brightness level while being relatively cooler than others.

 

[thermal guy]

Anybody with beam shots please?


For the shorter 18650 / 26650, would the tailcap remain screwed all the way in?

For the longer 21700, would the tailcap remain screwed all the way out?

If planning to use 26650 exclusively, would a shorter tail or thicker tail cap be available?



I have a few of these great lights and honestly I take the QTC out and just run them full power.

@thermal guy

How long before it gets too hot to handle?

They never got too hot to hold. Not even close

 

[ecmp]

Amazing experience @thermal guy

What are the specs on your Fraz? QTC use would be for when not too much light is needed then!

 

[ecmp]

Well used QTC. I do not find it to be magnetic but the bearing surface on the engine seems to attract what looks like a magnet in the piston?

@KITROBASKIN does the brass piston look like it would need replacement over time? There are spare pistons on the Fraz website that looks like that. Sans the magnet.

Hoping it would only be the QTC that would need replacing in the long run.