Sold/Expired FS: OFC heatsink for minimagAA.

[Bartol]

2X sets, total 18 $

Thanks!!!

 

[mariposaoyako]

To Bartol, datiLED,
I shipped your item.

thanks,

 

[yazkaz]

Any more heatsinks left?
I may need two with the U-shaped side opening (as shown in figure 1)...
Please confirm availability.

 

[mariposaoyako]

To yazkaz,

20 pieces left!

thanks,

 

[yazkaz]

How many of the remaining 20 heatsinks have the U-shaped side opening?
Because without the opening, boards like the BBBG may not fit in because the big SMT component is built too close to the edge of the PCB.
I will take two sinks only if they have this side opening. Please advise.

 

[Justin Case]

A BBNG, mounted to the OFC heat sink, fits in a AA Mini Mag, without needing the cutout. I just built one using a BBNG400, Seoul P4, and Fraen LP optic.

In any case, the sales notice in Post #1 says the following:

NOTE: If you want to use a converter that is mounted a big SMT Inductor(EX. SOB converter), you have to file off a heatsink until the board fit the heatsink.

I highlighted the key word you in red. It would seem to me that none of the heat sinks come with the cutout. You have to make the cutout yourself.

 

[Hack On Wheels]

To yazkaz,

20 pieces left!

thanks,

You aren't planning to do a follow up run in the future, are you?

I think I'll take 3 more to cover myself for gifting some maglites. 🙂

Paypal coming your way shortly...

Edit:

 

[mariposaoyako]

To Hack On Wheels,
I shipped your item.
Yes, I will not plan second run.

17 pieces left!

To Justin Case,
Thank you.

 

[DonX_Fi]

5 pcs HeatSinks
EMS (free )

 

[Justin Case]

I will take 5 heat sink kits. Thank you.

5x$9=$45 (air mail small packet)

 

[icaruz]

Hi,

for 1 heatsink plus registered airmail. Total $13.50. tq

 

[Justin Case]

I built one so far. Used a Seoul P4 U-bin LED, Badboy Nexgen 400 driver (measured 425mA drive current), Fraen LP narrow optic, and Terralux TCS-1 tailcap switch. Works great. Over 3hr fully regulated run time on 2xAA Eneloops. Gracefully decreasing output for the next hour. I got bored and ended the run after that. Approx 92% driver efficiency in regulation. I estimate 80-100 lumens out. About 2100 lux at 1 meter for the hot spot. Nice smooth beam (need to take a beam shot photo). This mod is basically the equal to my old Blackhawk Gladius in terms of output.

To restore the tailstanding capability, I might look for a rubber stopper, drill it out, and slide it over the TCS-1.

 

[Black Rose]

Will these heatsinks work with a 2xAA mini MagLED?

I killed the circuit board in a modding accident and now have a perfectly good body sitting around.

 

[Justin Case]

Will these heatsinks work with a 2xAA mini MagLED?

I killed the circuit board in a modding accident and now have a perfectly good body sitting around.

Need some pics and measurements.

The way this heat sink installs is that the larger diameter section of the main body is nominally 14mm (same as a AA cell). That gives the heat sink a reasonably good fit down the battery tube. The skinnier threaded section pokes through the top of the battery tube, where there is a lip that prevents the heat sink main body from just sliding out the top. That skinnier threaded section is about 9mm diam.

So #1, the opening at the top of your Mini MagLED battery tube has to be at least 9mm for the heat sink to make it through.

Then, the threaded collar screws onto that skinny section to hold the heat sink in place.

I forget the diameter of the collar, but it is basically about the same as the battery tube OD (about 0.7 inches). I would assume that the Mini MagLED has the same battery tube OD as the incandescent Mini Mag. Presumably, the Mini MagLED head will fit over this collar without interference.

So #2, check the ID of the head and the OD of the battery tube at the top of the tube.

#3, check the inside depth and diameter of the head to see if it will properly fit an optic like a Fraen LP or a DX14598 reflector. mariposaoyako has indicated that a 12mm tall optic or reflector fits in the incandescent MM. The Fraen LP optic is just under 20mm diam at the top rim of the optic. The incan MM window is about 22.5mm diam. A slightly stretched 22mmx1mm o-ring from DX fits quite nicely to center the Fraen in the incan MM head.

CPF search seems to indicate that the tail threads should be compatible between the two Mini Mag versions and thus the Terralux TCS-1 switch should fit. But I can't say for certain since I don't own a Mini MagLED. Perhaps the thread length differs. I don't know. You need a tailcap switch since this mod defeats the twisty head method of turning the light on and off.

Now you might be able to simulate the twisty head switching by not installing the threaded collar. Then head pressure might push the heat sink down hard enough so that it breaks ground contact with the top lip of the battery tube, turning off the light. Backing out the head might allow the heat sink to rise up under the spring pressure from the stock tailcap and eventually make ground contact, turning on the light. So all may not be lost even if the Mini MagLED can't accommodate the usual Kroll or TCS-1 tail switch.

For $9, I'd just get a heat sink and give it a shot. If it doesn't work, spend another $10 for an incan MM and mod that.

 

[icaruz]

Hi,

Thinking of XP-G setup with 2 Eneloop...any advice on driver and if i want to use mpcb for the emitter will i have to file down the ring? Tq

 

[yazkaz]

Will these heatsinks work with a 2xAA mini MagLED?
I killed the circuit board in a modding accident and now have a perfectly good body sitting around.

NO they won't. With the original driver module removed, there's no way this heatsink can be mounted to the top of the battery tube effectively. See pic:
http://www.light-reviews.com/mini_maglite_led_2aa/06.jpg

Plus, you'll have a problem finding a fitted reflector, should such mod actually work.

@Justin: are you sure a BBNG board can fit the bottom of the heatsink without having to make the side cavity? AFAIK most current-spec BBNG boards have the big SMT inductors installed. Can you show me pics of the bottom (or sides) of your NG400 LE?
Plus, SSC P4 does not work well with Fraen LP. The beam profile is so weird and unacceptable, a dedicated Khatod optic has to be used instead.

@mariposaoyako: PP sent for two sinks. See email for details.

 

[Pekka]

I'll take 3!

 

[Justin Case]

NO they won't. With the original driver module removed, there's no way this heatsink can be mounted to the top of the battery tube effectively. See pic:
http://www.light-reviews.com/mini_ma...led_2aa/06.jpg

Plus, you'll have a problem finding a fitted reflector, should such mod actually work.

@Justin: are you sure a BBNG board can fit the bottom of the heatsink without having to make the side cavity? AFAIK most current-spec BBNG boards have the big SMT inductors installed. Can you show me pics of the bottom (or sides) of your NG400 LE?
Plus, SSC P4 does not work well with Fraen LP. The beam profile is so weird and unacceptable, a dedicated Khatod optic has to be used instead.

Thanks for the clarification that the Mini MagLED does not work with the heat sink, although I confess that I haven't any idea as to what the linked jpeg image is supposed to tell me about fitting or not fitting. What is the issue with finding a reflector or optic that fits? Are the Mini MagLED head internal dimensions sufficiently different from the incan MM head that reflectors and optics for the latter won't fit the former?

Yes I'm sure that you don't need to mod the heat sink to fit the BBNG driver. Like I wrote before, I built a module (actually, two now) using a BBNG400. It isn't simply the presence of the "big inductor". It's the location right at the edge of the board. For the SOB, the inductor is flush with the edge, so you need to make room for the inductor by making a cutout in the heat sink. Otherwise, the driver is offset from center by the thickness of the heat sink's driver cavity wall and that is enough to prevent the module from sliding down the battery tube. For the BBNG, the inductor is just slightly inward of the edge of the board. There is only a slight offset of the board from being centered on the heat sink, but not enough to interfere with mounting and installation in the Mini Mag.

The height of the inductor is also low enough to fit without problems, as long as you position the driver so that the inductor isn't pressing against the ground screw.

The P4 I have works great with the Fraen LP narrow from The Shoppe. The same Fraen optic works poorly with a Cree XR-E. There are several different Fraen LP optics. I am using Fraen part #FLP-HNB3-LL01-0. This optic is listed as working with the Luxeon I, III, and V emitters. Here are the spatial radiation patterns for the Lux vs Seoul. Lux FWHM occurs at about 55 degrees, and falls to zero at about 100 degrees. P4 FWHM is at about 60 degrees, falling to zero at about 90 degrees. Presumably, this is a close enough match. Also, presumably the die heights relative to the tops of the emitter cases are also a close enough match.

Luxeon

Seoul

 

[Black Rose]

Thanks for the clarification that the Mini MagLED does not work with the heat sink, although I confess that I haven't any idea as to what the linked jpeg image is supposed to tell me about fitting or not fitting.

The light engine of a mini MagLED is held in a 17mm slug that is pressed into the body from the back.

What is the issue with finding a reflector or optic that fits? Are the Mini MagLED head internal dimensions sufficiently different from the incan MM head that reflectors and optics for the latter won't fit the former?

The mini MagLED head is 1 cm longer than the heads on the incan MM.

The mini MagLED reflector is 24mm deep, whereas the incan reflector is only 13mm deep.

The mini MagLED tailcap is also incompatible with incan MM tailcaps and most replacements due to a really long spring, unless you use rare earth magnets to fill the space.

The ID of the opening at the head is just over 14mm.
There is a small lip inside that closes the opening to about 13mm, to keep the aforementioned slug from falling out.

Seems to be more trouble than it's worth to try and use this victim.

 

[Justin Case]

Hi,

Thinking of XP-G setup with 2 Eneloop...any advice on driver and if i want to use mpcb for the emitter will i have to file down the ring? Tq

I like the Badboy Nexgen boost driver. A GD boost-buck could be good if you think you might run with 1x14500 and a spacer or 2xEneloop. I'm using a 400mA BBNG driving a Seoul P4. At about 1.4W power to the LED, the module runs cool. The XP-G should be more efficent than the P4. So you could either pick 400mA for example and get more lumens and longer run time or go with higher drive current for even more lumens and the same run time. Check the XP-G datasheet to help pick the drive current you want (Edit: I see that Cree has a new Sept 28 2009 datasheet with a Vf-If graph. Looks like you can drive the XP-G at 500mA and draw only about 1.5W, which is about what my Seoul P4 drew at 400mA drive current. The relative luminous flux looks to be about 1.4X at 500mA drive, so you could get 160 emitter lumens for an R2 or 195 emitter lumens for an R5).

The heat sink flat area is a 9mm circle. If the LED plus star or substrate base fits in 9mm, then no trimming is needed. Otherwise, you need to trim the LED or grind down the collar or add a spacer. I forget what the spacer height has to be. I also don't know if adding height to the emitter might affect the fit of a reflector or optic. I trimmed the corners to fit a salvaged Cree XR-E Q5 on a 9mmx7mm white substrate board. A 9mmx7mm rectangle means a diagonal of about 11.4mm, so I had to trim off about 1.2mm from each corner.

The XP-G comes on a 3.45mmx3.45mm substrate, so if you get a bare emitter, no trimming should be needed.

Cree XR-E mounted the OFC AA Mini Mag heat sink