Fyrlyt, all hype no substance?

solyxius

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Great discussion and plenty of information here guys, thank you all.

Another Canberran here who lives 3 minutes from the Mugga Lane test site, and is also tossing up between Hella 4000's and Fyrlyts, and also prefers wider beams!

Re the Fyrlyt globes, I stumbled across these specs I thought may be of interest, if not already known, PDF dated 14/09/2013 - http://www.osram.com/osram_com/prod...out-reflector/index.jsp?productId=ZMP_1046738

Cheers
solly
 

NFT5

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Well, I'm pleased to say that while I've been the proud owner of a set of Fyrlyts for some weeks, they are now actually fitted to my new car. A couple of short, shakedown runs and I can say that I am very impressed.

Some observations:
- while whiter than most halogen lights there is still a good deal of yellow in the colour
- beam spread, even in spot mode, is quite wide and sufficient, I feel, to obviate the need for the spread setting except in the tightest conditions
-

Now that the weather is warming up a little it may be time for another comparo....this time, though, where there is around 1000m of range available with some kind of markers. For the sake of making it at least somewhat scientific and having some hard facts to compare, I also have a light meter.
 

solyxius

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Well, I'm pleased to say that while I've been the proud owner of a set of Fyrlyts for some weeks, they are now actually fitted to my new car. A couple of short, shakedown runs and I can say that I am very impressed.

NFT5, can I ask where you procured said Fyrlyts from in Canberra, and for what price? I'm yet to make the decision between Hella and Fyrlyt, and price will be one factor, as will ease of warranty claims and ready access to spare parts.
 

wcowan

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Well, I'm pleased to say that while I've been the proud owner of a set of Fyrlyts for some weeks, they are now actually fitted to my new car. A couple of short, shakedown runs and I can say that I am very impressed.

Some observations:
- while whiter than most halogen lights there is still a good deal of yellow in the colour
- beam spread, even in spot mode, is quite wide and sufficient, I feel, to obviate the need for the spread setting except in the tightest conditions
-

Now that the weather is warming up a little it may be time for another comparo....this time, though, where there is around 1000m of range available with some kind of markers. For the sake of making it at least somewhat scientific and having some hard facts to compare, I also have a light meter.

I'll be happy to join in. I could bring the wife's Corolla with two Hella 4000 Compact drivers and two Narva 70 Compac driving lights or the ute if you are interested. Similar spread and range to the big Hellas on the Hilux, but without that beautiful, even illumination.

Is there really a need for a 1Km long range? If I can see something well at 300M I have plenty of time to stop.

Cheers

William Cowan
 

solyxius

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I bought them from here:

http://adtranstrucks.com.au/parts

Ask for Todd.

Cost $530.

Thanks NFT5, rang around and can get them from TJM in Queanbeyan for $535, in stock.

Given all lights can suffer if they don't get enough voltage, how would you guys recommend wiring them up - I've used a 30A Britax loom for my sons Narva's, but TJM recommend a 40A loom, and the documentation suggest the Piranha DL1 or DL2 (which seems to have been replaced by the much more expensive Piranha Super Loom).

What did you guys use i.e. which loom or DIY wiring or professionally installed? Any advice to get the best out of them would be much appreciated.

I'm in a Series 4 Pathfinder with a regulating alternator so I may also have to perform the "green wire mod" to output full voltage constantly.
 
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MacG

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Thanks NFT5, rang around and can get them from TJM in Queanbeyan for $535, in stock.

Given all lights can suffer if they don't get enough voltage, how would you guys recommend wiring them up - I've used a 30A Britax loom for my sons Narva's, but TJM recommend a 40A loom, and the documentation suggest the Piranha DL1 or DL2 (which seems to have been replaced by the much more expensive Piranha Super Loom).

What did you guys use i.e. which loom or DIY wiring or professionally installed? Any advice to get the best out of them would be much appreciated.

I'm in a Series 4 Pathfinder with a regulating alternator so I may also have to perform the "green wire mod" to output full voltage constantly.

Hi Solyxius

The Piranha DL1 is still available. The DL2 has been discontinued. I was speaking to Piranha today. I have tested the DL1. It has 2.00mm dia copper wire to the driving lights and with the FYRLYTs this give approx 0.7 volt drop on the longest wire with both lights on. As the 150w lamp has a design voltage of approx 13 volts this will give you good output with about 14 volts charging at the battery.

Re the ECU regulating alternator. I did extensive tests on the new Ford ranger with the local Ford company which has a similar system to your Pathfinder. All you have to do is make sure you connect any neg wire from any ancillairy equip (lights) to the chassis side of the sensor on the negative battery post. Unlike in the old days when you could connect the earth wire direct to the neg battery post. If you connect direct to the neg post the computer will not recognise the current required to supply the extra equipment PLUS the needs of the battery to maintain full charge. The battery will slowly suphate up and fail within about six months. However the alternator system will still raise the voltage and amps output to meet the vehicles needs when the load is applied but it will short change the battery charge unless correctly wired downstream of the neg post load sensor. This was proven by the tests we did at Ford. We had approx 600 watts of draw with no problems at all when wired correctly. We monitored the ancillary equip current draw plus the battery current draw individually to prove that everything was working as designed.
Don't know if I'm allowed on this forum but the relevant test that was done is on http://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=28589.0 If you can't get it all then I can post the data on this forum if required for general info.

MacG
 
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solyxius

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Hi Solyxius

The Piranha DL1 is still available. The DL2 has been discontinued. I was peaking to Piranha today. I have tested the DL1. It has 2.00mm dia copper wire to the driving lights and with the FYRLYTs this give approx 0.7 volt drop on the longest wire with both lights on. As the 150w lamp has a design voltage of approx 13 volts this will give you good output with about 14 volts charging at the battery.

Thanks David,

However I noticed in another of your posts you prefer 5mm square to the lights (10 AWG, 2.5 dia?) - do you have a suggested loom other than the discontinued DL2 that comes with this out of the box plus the 6mm from battery to relay? I'd like to remove the wiring from any potential issues I encounter from the Nissan ECU controlled alternator.

Also is a 30A loom (relay / fuse) sufficient or is 40A preferred?

"Our globes are rated 5000 lumens at 13.2 volts so I have found the minimum, EG: Piranha loom NR1 which has 3.5mm square wire from the relay to the lights has approx 0.7 volts drop to each light therefore with about 13.8 /14 volts at the battery with the engine running the volts are pretty much ideal.
However we recommend minimum 5.00mm square which gives approx 0.3 volt drop with th 150watt lamps.
This then allows for longer wiring runs or a lower battery voltage output. The supply wire to the relay from the battery needs to be 6.00mm ."
 

MacG

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Thanks David,

However I noticed in another of your posts you prefer 5mm square to the lights (10 AWG, 2.5 dia?) - do you have a suggested loom other than the discontinued DL2 that comes with this out of the box plus the 6mm from battery to relay? I'd like to remove the wiring from any potential issues I encounter from the Nissan ECU controlled alternator.

Also is a 30A loom (relay / fuse) sufficient or is 40A preferred?

"Our globes are rated 5000 lumens at 13.2 volts so I have found the minimum, EG: Piranha loom NR1 which has 3.5mm square wire from the relay to the lights has approx 0.7 volts drop to each light therefore with about 13.8 /14 volts at the battery with the engine running the volts are pretty much ideal.
However we recommend minimum 5.00mm square which gives approx 0.3 volt drop with th 150watt lamps.
This then allows for longer wiring runs or a lower battery voltage output. The supply wire to the relay from the battery needs to be
6.00mm .
"

Your right I did say that, and was wrong!. It was just recently I found out the rolls of wire that were used for the voltage drop tests had been incorrectly marked with the wire sizes. Hence why the over sized stated wire. No excuse ,I should not have missed it. This was found due to the lack of correlation between the AWG specs and the local wire specified in DL1 loom and the specs on my rolls of wire.
The wiring diagrams have been redone and the DL1 is the minimum to use 12AWG = 2.00mm dia copper / 3.5mm square /classified as 2.00mm wire (0.7v drop).
Or as I use 11AWG = 2.3mm dia copper / classified as 3.00mm? (0.4v drop). If you go bigger than that you will seriously shorten the lamp life, (but you get noticably more light output) thats the trade off. Yes you do need a larger wire beteen the battery and the relay as it carries the current for both lights. In the DL1 it is 2.3mm dia / 3.00mm wire. This works well.
I haven't found any better loom than the DL1 since the DL2 was discontinued. You will have to make your own if you want larger.

A 30amp relay will do the job as the lights draw about 25amps between them. A genuine 40 amp relay just gives you a bigger safety margin.(Note: we do not know these days if it just a different number printed on the relay as are a lot of items coming out af Asia)
The best way to reduce any problems is keep your joints to a minimum and sealed from moisture and the earth wire (neg) from the lights goes back to the Neg battery connection to the body, not a short wire to the bull bar as you do not know the resistance through the chassis bolted connections especially over time.
This should have no effect on your ecu controlled system.

MacG
 

Alaric Darconville

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Where the hell are you guys finding square wire? :crackup:

Yes Rick, its hard to find.

Some magnet wire is square, or square with rounded corners. I've also heard of people experimenting with square exhaust pipes for the sound they make. (For those that don't get the joke, the cross-sectional area of the wire is being described, regardless of the polygonal construction.)
 

ozgrinch

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...Now that the weather is warming up a little it may be time for another comparo...
As another ACT member, I'd be interested in attending and observing, so let me know when it's going to happen. Oh, it takes me about 6 min to get to Mugga Lane...small world. :party:
 

NFT5

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Installation of lights (and various other things) is now largely complete on my new vehicle so I'm pretty much available whenever the consensus is to have this comparo again. Have to say that, after a trip away last weekend, I'm loving the Fyrlyts.

I'd like to have somewhere with a bit more length to the road, though. My idea is to try to take some readings at various distances and I think 400m might be a bit constrictive. I don't suppose that any of you guys on that side of town might be able to find out if we could get permission to access the blocked off extension of Jerrabomberra Ave? Looks about 800m dead straight on the map and that would be ideal.
 

Monocrom

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Wouldn't this be an important light since it is made in Australia? They are rather under represented anyways in lighting.
Country of origin is important. But then a much closer examination of the light would be needed. If a light is mediocre or junk, who cares where it's made.
 

yellow

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Is a maker/product from 10 years ago still in business?

There have been HID and actually are led headlights instead
 

F89

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These lights are something else. There's not really anything like them, particularly considering they're halogen.
Things have changed a fair bit since the 10 years of the original posts. They're biggest system now uses 24V 250W globes (can be run off 12V systems).
There's a few different tiers of power levels in the range but all the housings are big metal and glass structures for big 4x4s and trucks.
Australia is very big on this kind of gear and there's a few companies designing and manufacturing this kind of gear in country but there's also those with production in China.
I've never heard of or seen anything more impressive than any of the Fyrlyt driving lights.
 
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