G2 with drop in LED.

[Deegle]

I just got a Cree R2-WC 250-Lumen 5-Mode Memory Drop-in LED Module for Flashlights (3.6V~8.4V) from DealExtreme for my Surefire G2. It went in fine and works great. However, it isn't quite as bright as I had hoped. I have a Browning Tactical Hunter K2 which is rated at 130 lumens. The 250 lumen G2 is only slightly brighter than my 130 lumen Browning. I'm new to high powered flashlights. Is this typical? I expected a bigger difference.

 

[bigchelis]

I just got a Cree R2-WC 250-Lumen 5-Mode Memory Drop-in LED Module for Flashlights (3.6V~8.4V) from DealExtreme for my Surefire G2. It went in fine and works great. However, it isn't quite as bright as I had hoped. I have a Browning Tactical Hunter K2 which is rated at 130 lumens. The 250 lumen G2 is only slightly brighter than my 130 lumen Browning. I'm new to high powered flashlights. Is this typical? I expected a bigger difference.

There is no R2 in the world that has made 250 lumens. The DX R2 11836 I have made about 140 Lumens out the front with MrGmans sphere. Go to the LED section and read the sticky way on the top and you will learn what lights and LED drop-ins actually make.

EDIT: The Tiablo A10 R2 holds the record with 245 lumens out the front. If others exists they have not been tested.

Please also keep in mind that the G2 doesn't dissipate heat and will your DX drop-in due to excess heat build up. If you get a metal bezel like a Solarforce that will take care of it.

:welcome:

 

[Marduke]

Taken at face value, human perception of brightness is roughly logarithmic, meaning it takes roughly 4 times the brightness increase to appear twice as bright, and twice the brightness to even appear "noticeably brighter"

There is no R2 in the world that has made 250 lumens. The DX R2 11836 I have made about 140 Lumens out the front with MrGmans sphere. Go to the LED section and read the sticky way on the top and you will learn what lights and LED drop-ins actually make.

EDIT: The Tiablo A10 R2 holds the record with 245 lumens out the front. If others exists they have not been tested.

It's not that hard with a bit of overdriving. The Eagletac T10C2 uses an XR-E and puts 256-258 OTF.

 

[Deegle]

Thanks for the info. Any idea where I can find a solarforce bezel which would fit the G2. I googled it and didn't have much luck.

 

[Mjolnir]

Well Bigchelis was technically correct, since the Eagletac uses a Q5, not an R2. Of course, they could really be higher binned, and Eagletac just didn't feel like letting us know.

In order to compare brightness, you will have to do a ceiling bounce test. Visual inspection of the beam pattern will not give you overall brightness, since different lights focus their beams differently. It could have a wider spot and spill and appear less bright (or not as bright as it should be), but actually have higher output.

 

[Justin Case]

Please also keep in mind that the G2 doesn't dissipate heat and will your DX drop-in due to excess heat build up. If you get a metal bezel like a Solarforce that will take care of it.

I don't think a Solarforce bezel is a good choice. If you go the bezel route, which I would not recommend, I would get a SureFire bezel. See this link for an explanation.

A better solution is to replace the plastic G2 body with a metal 6P-compatible body (Solarforce sells them) and then wrap some foil or other conductor around the drop-in to conduct heat directly to the metal tube. See this link for measured data. Also, your hand will help dissipate heat flowing to the metal body. Your hand won't provide such an assist for the bezel route.

 

[Deegle]

Would this work?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Solarforce-BLK-...ItemQQimsxq20090527?IMSfp=TL090527156002r5668

 

[Justin Case]

That looks like the right product. Interestingly, Lighthound has a similar host, but the Solarforce L2 they sell apparently cannot fit an 18650 cell. Definitely, Solarforce does have 6P compatible bodies that do fit an 18650, but it might be wise to verify this functionality first.

 

[bigchelis]

Taken at face value, human perception of brightness is roughly logarithmic, meaning it takes roughly 4 times the brightness increase to appear twice as bright, and twice the brightness to even appear "noticeably brighter"



It's not that hard with a bit of overdriving. The Eagletac T10C2 uses an XR-E and puts 256-258 OTF.

Oh yeah,
I forgot about the Eagletac. I guess since I have a Tiablo A10 I convinced myself otherwise..

 

[bigchelis]

I don't think a Solarforce bezel is a good choice. If you go the bezel route, which I would not recommend, I would get a SureFire bezel. See this link for an explanation.

A better solution is to replace the plastic G2 body with a metal 6P-compatible body (Solarforce sells them) and then wrap some foil or other conductor around the drop-in to conduct heat directly to the metal tube. See this link for measured data. Also, your hand will help dissipate heat flowing to the metal body. Your hand won't provide such an assist for the bezel route.

I go the Solarforce route, but I never get contact.:mecry: What I then do is wrap the module with aluminum foil or cooper tape. Yes, the Surefire route is the ideal, but the Solarforce route is more economical and easier to put UCL or aspherics as your tasted changes.

 

[Deegle]

I got the solarforce body off ebay. Looking forward to seeing how it works with my DX drop in!