Glow Powder/Epoxy Translucency

gallonoffuel

Enlightened
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Northern MD
Hey guys, I just ordered some of the V10 glow powder for a few projects I have in mind, and I had a question. When mixing this stuff into the 'crystal clear' epoxy, how translucent is the resulting mix? Will it transmit as much light through it as, say, a thin piece of white plastic? I suppose it depends partially (or perhaps completely) on the concentration of glow powder, but I'd like to get an idea of how much light can be transmitted through it if you mix in enough powder until saturation (when the mix gets too gritty). Can you sort of guesstimate how translucent it will be while it's still workable, or will it cloud up further upon curing? Thanks!
 
Hey guys, I just ordered some of the V10 glow powder for a few projects I have in mind, and I had a question. When mixing this stuff into the 'crystal clear' epoxy, how translucent is the resulting mix? Will it transmit as much light through it as, say, a thin piece of white plastic? I suppose it depends partially (or perhaps completely) on the concentration of glow powder, but I'd like to get an idea of how much light can be transmitted through it if you mix in enough powder until saturation (when the mix gets too gritty). Can you sort of guesstimate how translucent it will be while it's still workable, or will it cloud up further upon curing? Thanks!
The short and simple answer is that the mix won't be translucent at all.

The longish answer is that it depends on how much GID powder you add to the mix, and how thick of a layer you'll be dealing with. In that case, the answer may be "it depends". However, the less powder you add, the less it'll glow; same applies for the layer thickness.

So, back to my original answer: nope, not translucent at all.
 
So even though the medium is supposed to be relatively clear, the glow powder is opaque enough to block most or all of the light from the epoxy/powder mix? Perhaps I will rethink my approach for this project. I'll test some out and see if the results are what I was thinking.

On a similar note, i was unable to find clear epoxy at home depot or lowes. They carry the loctite version with the 2-barrel syringe applicator, but i really wanted the seperate bottles of hardener/epoxy to mix my own. Gotta keep looking.

Thanks greenLED!
 
So even though the medium is supposed to be relatively clear, the glow powder is opaque enough to block most or all of the light from the epoxy/powder mix?
Exactly. For a decent glow you end up having to dump enough GID powder that it blocks most light going through the epoxy.

You could put just a liiiiitle bit of GID powder (say 10% by volume). That way the medium would be mostly unubstructed, and you'd still get some glow (nothing like the "mix 'till it's almost gritty" recipe, but it'd glow decently enough if you're using glowic.com stuff).


On a similar note, i was unable to find clear epoxy at home depot or lowes. They carry the loctite version with the 2-barrel syringe applicator...
I've used the syringes a couple of times; very easy to measure similar volumes that way. BTW, I use the slow curing type (8 hour or so). Gives a lot nicer results, IMO.
 
Thanks again. I'll try mixing some small samples and see if they provide what I need. The GITD effect is actually secondary from what I'm trying to accomplish, so if I don't get a very intense glow, it'll be ok.

I'll have to look again for the epoxy. I don't think I saw the long-setting product at the big box stores, only the 5 and 20 minute types. A hobby shop might be a better bet.

Hopefully glowinc ships quickly, I want to get crackin' on this. :)
 
Look for Devcon 2-Ton at Walmart. Very good results for me.

I have 2 year old V10 and Devcon 2-Ton mixes that still appear to be freshly done. GlowInc is as good as it gets!
 
Look for Devcon 2-Ton at Walmart. Very good results for me.

I have 2 year old V10 and Devcon 2-Ton mixes that still appear to be freshly done. GlowInc is as good as it gets!

I haven't been able to get it at Walmart for sometime now. They told me they aren't carrying it anymore. :confused:

Locktite works just as well, but I sure liked that 1.97 price on the devcon.

You should be able to find it at hardware stores. Ebay always has people selling it too.
 
Does anyone know if Selleys Epoxy Fix work as well? Thanks.
 
is it clear? If so, it should work. try it.

It states Dries Clear. Comes in 2 mini bubble packs that could be torn off together for mixing, one slightly murky and the other slightly golden clear. :thinking:
 
It will do.

What's the curing time? If it's fast set-up then prep work will make or break your project.

Also think about what else you might want to put it on if you have extra mix.
 
I've tried a couple of clear epoxies with glow powder and not been impressed with the results. greenLED describes it like it is. The best results I've achieved are from sprinkling glow powder on top of the wet epoxy after it is in place, let it set and dust off the excess. Doesn't look too flash but works well.
 
To each their own but I never liked the gritty feeling you get with the dusting method, I like the surface to be smooth and packed with alot of powder.

Here is a quick and dirty guide I've posted before somewhere on here.
DON"T use anything fast setting unless you have done this a thousand times and know the epoxy you are using well.
Mix the epoxy in a plastic baggie then pour in the powder. Use as much powder as you like but you will reach a point where the mix gets sludgy and gritty, then you probably have gone too far and need a bit more epoxy. You want just enough to bond the V10 together without it looking like glow powder floating in an ocean of epoxy. It's really hard to give someone a mix ratio, I go mostly by feel. If you require a mix with zero bubbles in it (I never want bubbles!) try to mix slowly with a massaging or kneading motion.
It is not a precise operation, you just have to try it and get a feel for it. Don't be afraid of it!
When you have it all mixed up in the baggie cut off the corner of the baggie and squeeze for application. Remember that the smaller the hole in the baggie the more precise the application will be. As a side note it also means you have to squeeze the baggie harder so don't use the cheap wimpy bags because you will probably burst through them and have a huge friggin mess in your hand! Don't touch it for at least 2 hours and it will look pretty dang good. About a minute after you pour you may find a bubble or two rise up to the surface, don't panic just use a sewing needle to pop them quickly and the mix will slowly even back out where the bubble used to be.
The key to a good glow job is in the prep work and steady hands. If you screw up just be sure to remove the accident and clean the areas before it sets up totally. Boiling it off always works. You will feel the mix heat up as the reaction happens that eventually totally solidify it. Another hint for you, say you have a knife scale you want to put a glow dot into, drill the hole and put the clear scotch tape on one side of the hole then pour. Now if you want a really neat flat surface to be on the viewing side of the handle make that the side you put the tape on. I do it the opposite way since I like the glow dots to be a shiny finish and tape makes it a flat finish but I have alot of practice. It also doesn't hurt to take a razor blade and scrape away excess as soon as you finish pouring.


Don't take too long for application or you'll end up with a glowy pancake in a baggie............
 
Thanks for the tips, Sgt Led. It'll be my first time doing this, if it's comes out good, it'll be a beauty, if not, one light is going to be dang ooogly. :crazy:
 
Just an update on this. I tried out the epoxy/powder mix and spread it out on top of the lens on 2 lights. The first was my streamlight microstream which I use for nighttime navigating around the house when its pitch black. I was using a chapstick cap diffuser on it and even that was a bit too bright. I must say, this powder/epoxy mix worked wonderfully. The beam is completely diffused and a significant amount gets absorbed, but the leftover light is perfect for what I need. I did the same thing on an old Cabela's XPG rechargeable luxeon light using the same technique. I sometimes take this light camping or throw it in the truck with the automotive charger. Again, the result was exactly what I was looking for. An incredibly diffused, low output beam, and when i turn it off, I can find it again. I think this will get even more camping and hiking use now. I tried taking beamshots but I havent figured out how to do it properly with my camera.
 

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