Glowstick Idea

[sunspot]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by NightSun:
Y. The only rule is that you must beat the krill extreme.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
I have the Nichia Glow powder and a Krill extreme.No way is GID going to beat a Krill.
As to the Arc-AAA UV, I don't think Peter makes them anymore(I may be wrong,Darell?)
I do like the tube idea.

 

[vcal]

The problem with UV LEDs is that they will not last near as long as regular LEDs. -Note that shortened warranty from Arc. flashlight.

Glow coating works fine for the base of the stick, but that's all. BTW-it doesn't take much to beat the output of a Krill

My simplest answer so far:
1" O.D. x 4" PVC from Home Depot, Orchard etc. + Infinity with the inside dia. of the PVC sanded and the Infinity head press-fit into it=longlasting, durable, bright, and cheap to run glowstick.

Make a good stand-up base (I used a dead Krill one) for it, and you're all set.
-wish I had some pictures of mine to show 'ya

 

[Darell]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by phred:

Originally posted by NightSun:
[qb]I don't think Peter makes them anymore(I may be wrong,Darell?)

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
I can't recall if they're actually still being *made* anymore, but I know for sure that they can still be purchased - both from Arc and from TTS.

 

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Thanks for the fast input!
Are you sure there aren't any GID products that rival the EL panel in the Krill Extreme?? Combinations of certain types (i.e. Strontium-based) w/ certain LEDs?
I would think the strongest trait in this light would be it's longevity, vs. output (even though I'm not to big on compromise in this area

).
Any GID experts want to weigh in on this one?

 

[vcal]

I've done an almost ridiculous amount of experimenting on G.I.D.

, and have to conclude, for any real lasting illumination,-NOT just as a marker, our LEDs are truly the answer.

So, rejoice in the realization that we have ever more exciting LEDs to experiment with, and then go build your own version the Perfect Illumination Stick

 

[e=mc²]

Not to complicate the project/contest any, but what about adding a simple timing circuit to pulse the the led on for about 10-20 sec then off for several minutes until the GID pigment decays to a level below that of an EL panel. The blue-green pigment that I have far outshines my LimeLite nightlite, which is a blue/green EL panel, for at least 20 minutes after initial charging. This pulsing action would prolong the UV led's life, as well as conserve on battery power, yet provide a marker like glow. I didn't do the math, but the duty cycle of the on vs off time would be incredibly small.

...just food for thought
Ed-

 

[B@rt]

How about this...

read about it here:Glo-Toob

 

[vcal]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Edwood:
Not to complicate the project/contest any, but what about adding a simple timing circuit to pulse the the led on for about 10-20 sec then off for several minutes until the GID pigment decays to a level below that of an EL panel. The blue-green pigment that I have far outshines my LimeLite nightlite, which is a blue/green EL panel, for at least 20 minutes after initial charging. This pulsing action would prolong the UV led's life, as well as conserve on battery power, yet provide a marker like glow. I didn't do the math, but the duty cycle of the on vs off time would be incredibly small.
...just food for thought
Ed-<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Interesting idea...- 15 seconds on,..15-20 mintues off, would do it..

-also there's now a yellow/green pigment that competes with the brightness and longevity of the impressive blu/green.

 

[Saaby]

Upon reading this

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>1" O.D. x 4" PVC from Home Depot, Orchard etc. + Infinity with the inside dia. of the PVC sanded and the Infinity head press-fit into it=longlasting, durable, bright, and cheap to run glowstick.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I sketched this

(Post-Its are great)

You could just make a cheap LED circut inside...hook a 123 cell to a led or something...as simple as possible, and then use some type of base that would reflect the light to the outside of the PVC. Maybe this is what Mr.Glow was saying, I donno, all I know is I was thinking if you paint the outside of a PVC pipe...how are you going to charge it with a LED from the inside?

I don't know how exactly you'd do the timer/auto recharge but the disadvantage to that is there would be current, although extremly small, required to run the electronics. I know you could use a "Monostable 555 chip" with a push button to have the led come on for about 30 seconds (or whatever, 10 seconds, 10 minutes...doesn't matter) and then turn off, then you'd just hit the button (Which would also glow in the dark obviously) when the light was getting dim to recharge.


The Glo-Toobs look interesting but this is even better...why? Because you'd build it yourself

Glo-Toob for tent light, PVC tube for Light Stick replacement!

 

[vcal]

OK-Saaby..what I was suggesting was the use of the small $12. CMG Infinity light mated to that PVC tubing.

I did that sometime back, and now have a reliable single AA rechargeable light tube that runs brightly all night...-and just puts my Krill extreme to shame.

 

[Saaby]

Hmmmmmm...So how exactly do you mate the Infinity to the PVC? It has to light up the outside right?? I'm not seeing it although it is probably painfully simple

 

[vcal]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Saaby:
Hmmmmmm...So how exactly do you mate the Infinity to the PVC? It has to light up the outside right?? I'm not seeing it although it is probably painfully simple<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

The Infinity head is carefully fitted so that it is about 1/4" up into the tube, and shines up into it, causing the whole length of the tube to glow. Ideally it is a "press-fit"-friction-so that it solidly stay in place. It also helps that the CMG has a knurled head

I put a cap on the top of mine (with foil liner) to reflect the beam back down into the tube again. Also, to intensify the strength of the glow, I lined 180° of the tube neatly with reflective broiler foil, so that the light only comes from
Half the diameter of the tube,-just like they did on the Krill 180° extreme.

Edit: now that I have some excellent 3M special reflective mirror film (thanks to lightlover #260!) it'll work even more efficiently!

 

[Saaby]

Ah...so, ok. I get it. I didn't think the light would go through the PVC.

 

[**DONOTDELETE**]

You guys have more experience with the 'glow powders' than I'm ever likely to...

Is the light output equivalent, or superior to a cyalume (snap light) in a similar package?? If so...

I would think a narrow clear plastic tube of about the same size, coated on the inside with this stuff, coupled with a single white LED (properly diffused)to 'recharge' the substance, would last a ridiculous amount of time. It would make an outstanding survival light, especially if used with common AA or AAA batteries.

What do you all think?

 

[Roy]

How about a coated tube that you could stick an ARC AAA into? An ARC AAA UV would really light it up!

 

[duffahtolla]

PVC is translucent not transparent..
Wouldn't it would adsorb a good percentage of the light?

We need to get a clear tube.

I think this calls for Transparent Aluminum

 

[**DONOTDELETE**]

YES! Finally someone starts a topic on this! I think every one should put forth their best mod so we all can try. Sorta like a contest. The only rule is that you must beat the krill extreme.

Everyone! START YOUR THINKTANKS!

 

[Saaby]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Roy:
How about a coated tube that you could stick an ARC AAA into? An ARC AAA UV would really light it up!<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


The lid could be convexish...to help reflect the light back to the paint. Think a tiny disco ball at the top of the tube.

 

[vcal]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by duffahtolla:
PVC is translucent not transparent..
Wouldn't it would adsorb a good percentage of the light?

We need to get a clear tube.

I think this calls for Transparent Aluminum

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Translucent is what I use. I don't want transparent because it does NOT diffuse light properly like glowsticks do, and should.
-Note how Cyalume and all the other lightsticks work (and appear in the dark)...

Transparent won't give you a uniform distribution of light.

p.s.-that transparent Al is interesting stuff though.

 

[LEDagent]

HEY! I did a mod kinda like what you guys are trying to do. Here is what you need (W/ pictures of course

)...

1 Arc AAA
1 Krazy Glue container

Now..what you have to do is remove the labeling from the container. Use Alcahol to remove the remaining label residue.

The container is a wee bit bigger than the Arc head to fit snuggly. So what i did (NOT SHOWN IN THESE PICTURES...just made it up right now) was take a piece of tape - i don't know which kind...the medical stuff. It kinda feels like cloth or paper...but tacky - and place half of its width AROUND the container and the other half hanging from it. As you try to slip in the Arc between the tape, it will catch and bunch up neatly into the container giving you a snug friction fit for the head of the Arc AAA. Anyway, if all goes well it should look like this:

Does it decrease light output? YES. But by how much...i can't really say. With an informal test, by removing and installing the glowstick container above my head in a DARK room, the light output decreases by 10-15 percent. But range really suffers. With direct light, you can see maybe 20 feet in front of you. But with the container in place, you can maybe see 10 feet at the most. But i doubt glowsticks are meant to be used that way anyway.

So enoegh talk, i know pictures will tell a better story.

Picture of Arc glowstick in indirect sunlight on a table:

Arc glowstick about 1.5 - 2 feet from an object:

With this container in place, it makes the arc a GREAT GREAT GREAT tentlight. the illumination is more than enoegh in a 5-8 person tent. Although its not enoegh to read by if its suspend 3-4 feet above you, it is eneogh to move around with. Effective reading range with night adapted eyes is about 2.5 feet if you get enoegh direct line your way.

Let me know what kind of pictures you want to see and i'll just replace the ones you see above with better ones. I try my best to get them up ASAP.

-Laurence