Got the NEW Maglite ML25IT 2C

xxo

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Back in the old days, some of us used to run 3X CR123A's in 2C Mags with a 6 cell xenon PR bulb, worked well but not rechargeable. Three CR123's have just the right length to match as two C cells and the button tops allow them to make contact with each other and also with the Maglite.

For 2X lithium-ions, you really should be using protected cells and even a pair of protected 18500's may be a little too long for a 2C Mag. 18350's should work in an adapter though run time will be short, which is why I went with a 3C Mag running protected 21700's.

None of my C cell Mags are bored for 26 mm cells, so these are not an option for me. And besides 21700's have nearly as much capacity as 26650's anyway.
 

bykfixer

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I was asked via pm a question about my charging results. I charged a brand new RCR this afternoon that ceased charging at 4.21 volts. Right now it's resting. In the morning I'll stick it back in the charger and report in this post what the voltage is.
After that I'd prefer not to derail this thread any further, please.
FDC5945-B-3539-4-B43-A819-CBDA7-FFA55-DE.jpg


Here it is next morning
C1672845-E2-BC-41-EA-9534-96-F0088-E398-D.jpg



I stand corrected
 
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Olumin

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Alright so I received the batteries and bulb today. The cells barely just fit into the tube, but just barely (I dont advice anyone trying this, as cells vary in diameter). What surprised me is that they are actually too long! Instead of 50mm like stated on the website, they are about 50,7mm! That means the tailcap wouldn't fit. So, I shortened the tailcap by turning the threaded end down a bit with a lathe, and also cut the sprig a bit.

Now everything fits like it should, but, the bulb wont light at all. I tried again with my previous setup and everything still works, meaning I didn’t break anything. Despite being flat-top, the cells definitely contact each other, the top contact is slightly proud of the cell. Can anyone help out?

The bulb I am using: https://maglite.com/products/replacement-lamp-bulb-for-maglite-6-cell-c-d-flashlight

Picture of the battery I am using: https://puu.sh/HYOi4.jpg

The modified tailcap: https://puu.sh/HYOmm.jpg
 
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snakebite

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you need a neodymium button magnet on the + end of the 1st cell.
this is a very common issue when using flattops.
 

Olumin

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I feared it might be something like that. The question is how am I gonna get that magnet back out once its in there (its probably gonna stick to the contact-spring inside the light).

BTW: I did try it with the neodymium magnet (I always have some around for this very purpose), and it works wonderfully. Thanks very much for the advice. I hope the magnet will either come out with the cell or wont shift around on the spring too much, otherwise Ill try using tweezers. Ill frost the bulb with some sandpaper like I did with my previous setup and then im done.
 
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xxo

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The reason the cells are too long is the same reason that they make contact with each other – they have what are basically wide button tops. To make contact with the Mag's polarity protected positive contact you need a normal small diameter button top like on a C cell battery. A magnet may work (sort of) if the Mag's positive contact is non magnetic, which may not always be the case and your cell's positive needs to stick to a magnet, which is definitely not always the case with different cells.

Magnets are not a good solution since they can move around and potentially cause a short which is not something that you want to risk, particularly with unprotected cells. Probably the best option is to remove the switch and remove some plastic intended for polarity protection until the wider positive on the cell makes contact with the positive of the light. Some have soldered copper bullet gas checks to the light's positive that will allow contact with true flat top cells, though you need to make sure these are on there good and is never going to come loose and create a short. In the end it is safer and easier to just use proper button top protected cells. The protection should also keep the light from blowing up if the cells are mismatched and one over discharges.
 
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aznsx

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With all due respect, that's why God made button-top cells - way before I was born. Since I only buy cells sold for flashlights (and similar applications), that's all I use. I've never scavenged junked laptop battery packs though. I'm not into marginal solutions for trying to make a non-button-top cell work like a button-top cell. That involves work and potential problems, and I don't need more of either:). Life's too short, and I prefer to deal with the 'first world' problems. There's more than enough of those to keep me busy!
 

vicv

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And with all due respect. Not all batteries are button top. Even flashlight branded ones. Also, being in the US, you have about 1,000,000 online stores to buy them from. In other parts of the world, there isn't. There are none in Canada that I know of. And shipping is apoplectically bad. So scavenging junk battery packs is the only available solution for many.

Oh and I think flat top cells look cool. Especially the fatter cells.

Also I wasn't aware maglites needed them. All my 18650 powered mags have home made adaptors in them and I use brass screws to lengthen them so I create my own button top
 

aznsx

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And with all due respect. Not all batteries are button top. Even flashlight branded ones. Also, being in the US, you have about 1,000,000 online stores to buy them from. In other parts of the world, there isn't. There are none in Canada that I know of. And shipping is apoplectically bad. So scavenging junk battery packs is the only available solution for many.

Oh and I think flat top cells look cool. Especially the fatter cells.



Also I wasn't aware maglites needed them. All my 18650 powered mags have home made adaptors in them and I use brass screws to lengthen them so I create my own button top

I guess it really is a perspective thing.

I'm aware that not all cells are button-top, thus my post. Many cell terminations are designed to be welded to for other applications (such as 'battery packs') and obvious reasons.

The vast majority of cells I buy are in fact from flashlight manufacturers, and a majority of those are not U.S. based companies, so I didn't know the ROW couldn't easily buy them if I could easily get them in the U.S. It's more commonly been the opposite - things available elsewhere that I can't get here. Good to know.

I'm also not aware that any of the particular flashlight manufacturers I buy cells from have any cells in their product line that are not button-top (understandably, at least to me) - which of course may be specific to the manufacturers I'm buying from and may not apply to other flashlight manufacturers whose products I don't happen to buy. Good to know.

Also, for most of the first hundred years of flashlights, practically all cylindrical flashlight cells were button-top, for what I consider sound technical reasons, and those reasons are still valid today AFAIK. I'm not aware of anything that has fundamentally changed in that regard.

Your geographic location and perspective may well differ from mine, so as I said, I guess it's a perspective thing.

I would agree however that a thread about a Maglite is probably not the most appropriate place to comment regarding button-top cells, since practically their entire product line is based on alkaline cell compatibility, and to the best of my knowledge, all standard cylindrical alkaline cells are button-top anyway. Poor choice of threads on my part. All the talk of struggling with 'solder blobs', magnets, and other questionable solutions just led me to ask myself: Why? I also don't modify flashlights, so that also limits my own perspective.

Thanks for your perspective. Things are different up North!

BTW, I hope you didn't take my comment as implying that I don't think yours is a 'first world' country. That was not my intent:)
 

Olumin

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The only Li-ion 26500s available to me were flat-top. The magnet solution worked very well for me and the light is now working like it should. There is really nothing else I can add to it now. I really wish someone would make an aluminium OP reflector for the ML25 like they do/did for the regular C/Ds. That would make this light truly amazing.

I will say however that using a 3-cell with two protected and button-top 21700s is definitely the easier/better solution. So if anyone reads this in the future, just do that. Having this kind of brightness from an incan, with 2+ hour runtime in such a small package + rechargeable is very cool tho.
 

vicv

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It's awesome this worked for you. This sized and performance flashlight is a great thing. Sure my tiny s2+ has triple the output (and I set it up to be lower output), but it sure doesn't carry as nice or have the Incan beam which I still prefer. I've been on the lookout for one of these in 2 cell format. I'll probably use 2x 18500(as I already have them) and the 6 cell mag bulb. Then I can put a brighter bulb (maybe 1.5A or so) in my old 3c
 

xxo

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If anyone wants a ML25IT, I would get one while you still can, it seems that not all that many were made. Even the regular C cell xenon Mags are being discontinued.
 

Sacramentum96

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Sorry for the Necro bump, but I thought I read that the 5c bi pin would blow on 2x lithium ion. I currently run a five cell on two lithiums but it's the old PR base Krypton bulb. It was my understanding that the newer Xenon bipin bulbs were a higher driven bulb and you would need to use the six cell version
I've overdriven 4Cell Xenon's on 2x Keeppower 18650s. Very white light but bulb life is shortened.
 

vicv

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That's impressive. Currently I'm running a 6 cell xenon pr bulb and it's the whitest incandescent I've had yet and I've tried quite a lot. It's a lot whiter than any surefire or lumens factory lamp. I can't believe a 4 cell is working
 

snakebite

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me either.
unless its a super long life type.
those are underdriven by design and have more overdriving headroom
 

snakebite

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or the internal resistance is high/cells worn out.
anyone know max safe wattage for ml25?
any metal reflectors out there?
 

vicv

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Slightly. If you use it a few minutes at a time some blistering around the bulb area will show up but nothing bad. I ran mine 15-20 minutes at a time and got minor blistering with a stock lens and reflector. If you drill out about a millimeter or three around the bulb that won't be an issue as the bulb hugs the reflector.

Just take note of the raised area near the bulb on the back side of the reflector. It is what pushes down on the on/off switch similar to a minimag.

IMG_20181006_205521.jpg
About 2 hours total use

IMG_20181006_205624.jpg
Can drill some without issue

IMG_20181006_205746.jpg
Really hugs the bulb.

So yeah, removing a little plastic from away from the bulb can help heat spread away from the plastic better.
This one has the TL3 bulb.

Someone asked about Tads bulbs. Yes they will work too. And using a pair of C cells makes it possible to Yuji these too, if you want a low power mega runtime version.
I was just playing with the switch with the head removed. Now I cannot see the pictures you put up since the switchover seems to have made the links broken. But if I remember correctly you had an arrow pointing to the little flat area right outside of the hole for the bulb as a part that presses on the switch. If you try it again you will find that that is not the part that pushes in the switch. It's the large ring on the outside of the reflector. If you take the head off you will notice a large white plastic collar that goes around the outside of the socket. That whole white nylon piece is the switch.(red arrow first picture)

The red arrow second picture shows what presses down on the switch. Not the green arrow. So you are able to drill the hole larger if you feel you need to
 

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