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I finally know exactly how to work it. Your info was so much easier than the hive website. This light has became even more awesome. I currently just have the pencil graphite in there, I plan on soldering it in the future. Has yours ever became un- bridged? I’ve read if it does than the last saved settings will be saved until bridging again in order to change settingsWell done! Yes - feel free to PM at any time.
I know exactly what your saying and it makes sense. I got it all figured out and I’m really enjoying this hive driverI went through the HIVE converter manual recently and a general takeaway was this:
The converter works on "off" time, meaning the light will normally switch modes when it is turned off for a short period of time. (This can be changed to "on" time in Setting 14, but "off" is the default).
So to enter a sequence for programming, the action is to let off the switch for a short or long time and then re-engage. The starting or "neutral" position is with your thumb partially depressing the switch. This feels unnatural/counterintuitive, at least to me.
You're counting on the up strokes rather than the down strokes, so to speak. It's a bit like reggae music, which is sort of notorious for being difficult/counterintuitive for musicians to play.
I think this may explain why many folks have trouble learning to program this light, and that things like a 2-5-2 sequence seem to work. That effectively changes the 2-4-2 "up stroke" sequence to a more intuitive 2-5-2 "down stroke" sequence.
Interestingly, a reverse clicky changes this whole scheme around. For an "off" time driver and a reverse clicky, the starting position is with the switch latched on and the thumb not touching. Then the sequence is entered by partially depressing the button (to the turn the light off) for a short or long period of time.
When I look at the problem like this, I start to feel that "off" time is better suited for reverse clickies and "on" time is better suited for forward clickies. I'd be interested in others' takes on this, or arguments in favor of the opposite.
Hi guys, I admit I am intimidated and I think to slow to master the programming of the HIVE so I have stayed away from it. Rush has provided me with more of the converters and some of them are set from the get go for RCR123 so will throttle down to a lower level sooner than the previous converters that were set for CR123. I was falsely under the impression that all converters were programed for the RCR123 and have always felt that the high current level was a push for a CR123 anyway.
There is only a danger that the light will turn off abruptly/suddenly, as it will suck out battery and the protection board in the battery will work, there are no other dangers.I have been using both types of batteries in this mule over the years, but I have only been using protected RCR123 lately. Is there any danger using RCR123 if the HIVE was originally programed for CR123?
Other than not being warned about battery depletion, are there any output level differences?There is only a danger that the light will turn off abruptly/suddenly, as it will suck out battery and the protection board in the battery will work, there are no other dangers.
I would reprogram to use RCR123 for not to be left in the darkness without warning
I didn't notice any difference in brightness level, very stable driverOther than not being warned about battery depletion, are there any output level differences?
Also, where can I find the programming manual? I had no luck with some old links on this site.