I changed the McClicky on my Haiku. I used a small pair of needle noise pliers with a thin noise. Simply unscrewing the old switch and screwing the new one in. You need to get the switch relatively tight in order to make sure it has a solid connection. The first attempt I did not tighten enough for fear of breaking the switch, (it is plastic), so the light ended up flickering and cutting out unexpectedly. I emailed Don and he told me the switch need to be pretty tight so I tighten it up and have not had a problem since
So the one with the holes is the one you should get then so it can be tight.
#113 EPDM So does lighthound have these? I dont have the slightest idea where to find something like that but I am keeping bookmarks of these items for future reference so any help in the right direction is appreciated.
Is there a link showing pictures how this operation is done? I am assuming that the switch is installed from the inside of the tube. However to change the boot, one must remove the o-ring #113 EPDM right?
To get access to the switch you need to pinch the boot and pull it out. The o-ring will usually come out with it. The you unscrew the switch from the top. To replace the boot, just seat it on the switch and work the O-ring back around it. There is a small groove that it will seat into. The process is really simple. I was a little nervous at first but if you can change a light bulb you can change the McClicky switch too. I will try and take some pictures tonight.
Are all McClicky switch boots the same size and interchangeable? I just got an EN Mule off the BST. I really like it but the boot is super stiff, and on such a short light it's hard to activate. I was thinking of swapping the boot with the one in my SF C2, where the stiffness won't be much an issue as the light is large and the boot protrudes, and then putting that softer one in the Mule. They will fit in the opposite lights properly, yes?
Well I swapped them. They weren't EXACTLY the same size but close enough that I shouldn't have any problems, and I am pretty happy with the soft press on the Mule and the hard press on the C2. It worked well. There is now a slight gap in the Z41 between metal and boot, and the o-ring holding in the boot on the Mule took some pressing, so I think the one on the C2 was slightly larger than the stock one on the Mule, but Oh Well. It did what it needed to.
There are two boots I have used. The first is (was) a rubber boot very similar in geometry to that of the boot used in the E-series clickie switch. I incorporated an additional O-ring around its perimeter when I started using it in the McClickie paks. It became stiffer in activation in the McClickie paks compared to the tail cap assemblies used on the Aleph lights. I ultimately went with a silicone boot that has a larger diameter flange and essentially integrated the additional O-ring. In other words this boot was designed specifically for use in the McClickie paks as used in my current offerings. It is much softer in activation.
Ok, so if I am understanding correctly, the Mule HAD the older, stiffer boot, thus my activation issues; my new Haiku as well as my McClicky that I installed in the C2 have the newer, softer button. And the softer button is the only one being given with McClickies and your current lights?