Haiku XML 6V with Single R123 rechargeables.

jumpstat

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Hi all,

Would the above partnership work harmoniously?

Has anyone used this setup and if so does it functions as intended and what sort of runtime is possible?

The reason I asked is that I prefer to have the 1x123pak rather than the longer pak.

Thanks for the answers.

Cheers :wave:
 

Drywolf

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Using a very non-scientific method.

@ 8.03v I get three levels with the high reading 24.51 lux ceiling bounce test - R123 x 2
@ 6.13v I get three levels with the high reading 24.80 lux ceiling bounce test - primary x 2
@ 4.10v I get three levels with the high reading 18.12 lux ceiling bounce test - R123 x 1
@ 3.95v I get three levels with the high reading 16.09 lux ceiling bounce test - R123 x 1
@ 3.80v I get three levels with the high reading 13.50 lux ceiling bounce test - R123 x 1
@ 3.60v I get three levels with the high reading 11.19 lux ceiling bounce test - R123 x 1

So the low and medium settings are about the same and the high setting gets lower and lower as the voltage drops off. Eventually you only get a very low low and nothing more.

As for runtimes using two R123's I get about 1 hour on high and the protection circuit kicks off. Using one R123 it actually runs longer but the high keeps getting lower and lower.

I know this is not perfect results, buts it's all I'm going to invest for now.

Frank

:)

.
 
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shado

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I put my 6V Haiku (XP-G) head on a 123 Pak and compared it to a 3V Haiku 123 (XP-G). I turned them on for a minute or so side by side and the beam looked the same to me. The funny thing is, I found a big difference doing the same with a S-27?
 

shado

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I sent Don an email as I'm ordering one. I will post his answer when he replies.
 
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McGizmo

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I sent Don an email as I'm ordering one. I will post his answer when he replies.

Glad I saw this as I found your e-mail in my spam folder!?! :(

The 6V converter is a buck converter so any battery set up that provides less voltage than the Vf of the LED + probably some overhead will not see the LED driven at the designed current level.
 

jumpstat

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Glad I saw this as I found your e-mail in my spam folder!?! :(

The 6V converter is a buck converter so any battery set up that provides less voltage than the Vf of the LED + probably some overhead will not see the LED driven at the designed current level.
Thanks Don for the answer.
 

precisionworks

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IMO, the biggest advantage to the 6v Haiku it that it runs nearly forever (using the middle brightness setting). It will not take an 18650, and I've considered boring & reaming mine ... but cannot for the life of me figure out a suitable fixture for securing the body in the lathe jaws.

Don't throw rocks at me - I well realize that any mod to one of Don's lights will lower its value. And it really is a non issue, because of the long run time on primaries.
 

Obijuan Kenobe

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Isn't the point of this discussion that the 6V buck/boost light engine used in the 2 cell McGizmos is nearly incompatible with a single cell 3.7V set up.

I don't think boring out a 2x123 pack to fit a 18650 will address this voltage issue.

Just my very worthless 2 cents.

obi
 

jumpstat

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Isn't the point of this discussion that the 6V buck/boost light engine used in the 2 cell McGizmos is nearly incompatible with a single cell 3.7V set up.

I don't think boring out a 2x123 pack to fit a 18650 will address this voltage issue.

Just my very worthless 2 cents.

obi
The only reason I asked this question is that I have already acquired a 3V Haiku XP-G and want to consider getting the 6V XML Haiku head. The body will have to come later when funds permits.
 
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