Halcyon Proteus 3 HID, LED conversion.

[Rydive]

Hey folks.

I'm about to attempt to convert my Pro 3 in to an LED lamp using a Cree MC-E emitter. The host looks something like this:

I managed to flood the torch completely by hanging up the cable on the guard rail of a dive boat as I entered the water...goodbye battery, bulb, ballast, umbilical and switch. So, now I have a skeleton to work with in which I want to install a Cree MR-E:

http://www.led-tech.de/en/High-Powe...es/CREE-MC-E-on-Star-PCB-LT-1502_120_133.html

I have bought the emmiter, and also this reflector and heatsink:

http://www.led-tech.de/en/High-Powe...ctor-for-Cree-MC-E-13,5°-LT-1492_106_110.html

http://www.led-tech.de/en/High-Powe...e-Heat-Sink-round-32.5mm-LT-1539_106_114.html

I want to power the unit on lithium 18650's. Probably 3 or 4 depending on whether I wire the emiter serial or parallel. I haven't decided yet as I don't know what the best constant current regulator to use is. Any advice would be more than welcome!

It seems that 3 cells in series might be the best option as most of the drivers don't seem to be able to give enough current a low voltages. Any tips?

Thanks everyone, looking forward to letting you all know how it goes. I really don't know that much about electronics and anything I do know has been gained over the past day or so trawling for parts on the web. So, your opinions on this would be very useful. Am I on the right track, or is it all going to fail in an expensive and colourful fasion? :mecry:

:thanks:

 

[Packhorse]

I did a similar DivetRite conversion with a P7 which I have had better results with than the MC-E's. Anyway I used the Kai Domain 2.8a driver and a 7.4v Li Ion pack of 8 18650s

Here are the results http://sods.freeforums.org/upgrading-10watt-hid-s-to-led-s-t824.html

 

[H20doctor]

Wow that's a nice reflector thanks for the link I'm going to ordersome up... As for your new light.. 3 ea 18650 batteries will give you a 4hr burn time .. You can run them on a Luxdrive driver from Led supply its a simple driver with No soldering to connect power supplies from the Batts to the Led wires .. You will have to soldier onto your MCE chip though.. Post your progress .. Goodluck

 

[Packhorse]

.. 3 ea 18650 batteries will give you a 4hr burn time ..

How you work that one out?

I say 4 cells with give you a 3 hour burn time.
2500ma x 4= 10,000ma @ 3.7 v or 37 watt hours

MCE@ 2800ma consumes about 11 watt + driver inefficiency.

Of course if you drive it at a lower current you get longer burn time.

Rydive: Looking at that heat sink. I think you would be way better off with a thick aluminium disc that has been machined to fit in the light head. This will dissipate the heat into the light body then into the water so much better. With that heat sink all you will be doing is heating up the air in the light head. What is the light head made out of? Delrin? Aluminium?

 

[H20doctor]

Well Packhorse ...I know because I build lights for a living.. I use luxdrive drivers not Deal extreem drivers.. I use 3000 Ma 18650 and not the batteries you are useing... I also Burn test my light Before I sell them.. I get 4.5 Hours of light burn on 3 18650 at 1 amp... Just because your lights don't burn that long doesn't mean othe set ups with different drivers won't.. Math on paper doesn't always mean the light or batteries will burn for what's calculated.. Thank you for your questions

 

[russthetoolman]

Water Rx,
What series luxdrives are you using, how many, what current is each putting out and what is your wiring configuration to the LED?
I am interested in knowing how you are using luxdrives for your lights.
Thanks
Russ

 

[Packhorse]

Well Packhorse ...I know because I build lights for a living.. I use luxdrive drivers not Deal extreem drivers.. I use 3000 Ma 18650 and not the batteries you are useing... I also Burn test my light Before I sell them.. I get 4.5 Hours of light burn on 3 18650 at 1 amp... Just because your lights don't burn that long doesn't mean othe set ups with different drivers won't.. Math on paper doesn't always mean the light or batteries will burn for what's calculated.. Thank you for your questions

OK thats what you get. Great.

But the OP was talking about a MC-E. Perhaps you know something I dont and the OP may want to under drive it at 1 amp like you do.

I assumed he wanted to drive it at rated power which is 2800ma.

Even if you do use 3000mah cells....

3000ma x 3 x 3.7v= 33.3 watt hours.
So you may get 3 hours. not 4.

I always find this simple formula very accurate. Of course I am talking about full output at rated lumen current and capacity where you may not be.

 

[rafboh]

Hey folks.

I'm about to attempt to convert my Pro 3 in to an LED lamp using a Cree MC-E emitter. The host looks something like this:

know what the best constant current regulator to use is. Any advice would be more than welcome!


:thanks:

Hi, I have same Halcyon torch that failed recently after several years of service and would like to convert it to LED now. I will appreciate very much if you will share with me what kind of driver and battery pack have you finally used. Since I am very new in this field I would appreciate very much if you gave me a hint how to connect all this pieces together. In particular I mean connecting a driver ( or probably four drivers ?) with CREE MC-E . Thanks for any help , Rafal

 

[rafboh]

Hi, I have same Halcyon torch that failed recently after several years of service and would like to convert it to LED now. I will appreciate very much if you will share with me what kind of driver and battery pack have you finally used. Since I am very new in this field I would appreciate very much if you gave me a hint how to connect all this pieces together. In particular I mean connecting a driver ( or probably four drivers ?) with CREE MC-E . Thanks for any help , Rafal

Well, I was not too patient and tried to finish the job myself after digging the issue in the Internet. I used constant power supply from led-tech.de ( http://www.led-tech.de/en/LED-Contr...ower-Supply--700mA,-30V--LT-1552_118_119.html ). 4 x LI-Ion 18650 (2200 mAh connected in series, Cree MC-E connected in series driven by one 700mA BUCK. It works !! I have to admit I am surprised because I did this for the first time in my live and was almost sure it should not work just like that. The only problem is that heat sink is getting hot very quickly and I wonder if it is big enough to take heat from a led. I will do burning time test. Theoretically it should burn about 3hr if I understand the rules well.
Since it is going to be installed in Halcyon Proteus head and used under water I think it could be reasonable to isolate electronics in case water get inside (we know it sometimes happens) I wonder what kind of silicone or other material would be good to swamp electronics and isolate from water. Any advise is welcome.

 

[wquiles]

In my most recent project I used Hysol ES1001. See here on post #34:
http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/repairing-your-own-gear/298240-replacement-mc-e-led-head-canister-divelight-4.html

There is also a very good thread here that also covers this potting concept in more detail:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/240520


Will

 

[rafboh]

Thanks for hint. I used epoxy to seal electronics. Job is done. Burns like hell, at least same brightness as HID but longer burning time than before, with much smaller battery pack. I would post some photos of the project but since I am "unenlighted" I do not have the option.
Rafal

 

[Dashrynn]

see i want to do the same thing to my proteus 3, except put a sst90 in it and change the batteries for lithium

 

[350xfire]

The Cree MCE and Fraen reflector are my preferred choice!!! You get a nice hot spot with sidespill. I use the Luxdrive 700ma driver for its simplicity and it's fully potted. I have run the Cree at 1 amp and you get a bit extra light. However, it may affect the life of the LED so be careful overdriving. I get the Cree in SERIES and use a 14.8 volt LiIon Pack. I have not done a full burn test, but I do test my battery packs. I have had a 3500 mah pack run the Cree for 4 hours and still had time left.

You can't go wrong with this set up.

 

[350xfire]

OK thats what you get. Great.

But the OP was talking about a MC-E. Perhaps you know something I dont and the OP may want to under drive it at 1 amp like you do.

I assumed he wanted to drive it at rated power which is 2800ma.

Even if you do use 3000mah cells....

3000ma x 3 x 3.7v= 33.3 watt hours.
So you may get 3 hours. not 4.

I always find this simple formula very accurate. Of course I am talking about full output at rated lumen current and capacity where you may not be.

Depends on how they are connected Pack... Bet H2O is in series not parallel like yours.

 

[Packhorse]

Do the math. If the dies are wired in series then the MC-E is over driven.
It will consume about 15 watts depending on Vf. It may draw a little less ( or more) so lets be generous and say it only draws 13 watt.

battery pack is 33 watt hours.

33/13= 2.5 hours burn time. That does not take in to account driver and battery inefficiency. And from what I have seen 3000ma battaries they are very very inefficient on fast discharge rates.

Now if the dies's are wired 2P2S and driven at 1 amp then power consumption is halved and burn time is doubled. But this comes at the cost of lower output.

No matter how hard you try you cant escape the laws of physics. The best you can do if learn them and make the most of them.

 

[SUBjohan]

No matter how hard you try you cant escape the laws of physics. The best you can do if learn them and make the most of them.

+1

 

[Dashrynn]

Have you modded this light yet? If not there is a 14w ballast you can use to replace the 10 watt. Same size and everything supposedly, i just found it. Also its 1000 lumens.....i think thats well over the mce's rating.