HDS EDC light keeps ramping up.

[slvoid]

I have a HDS EDC B42 that I've 250-clicked into turning the locating beacon on, the momentary on, and the forced setting off.

Lately I've been leaving it on the maximum setting so it turns on at max all the time. Tonight it when I turned it on, it came on at the lowest setting, ramping up to the brightest, then it'll repeat it for a good 2-3 minutes.

I can't seem to stop it.

 

[Oddjob]

Unfortunatley you may have to do a hard reset if your light is acting up. Doing a hard reset will return the light back to factory settings and you will have to reprogram it all over again. Have you done a soft reset and tried different batteries, cleaning the contacts etc?

 

[slvoid]

This is odd. I tried a new battery and it went away for a bit then started doing it again. Soft reset, same thing.

I measured both batteries around 2.2-2.3V, which the HDS should gladly suck the juice out of?

 

[Hondo]

It is a vampire, on low settings. Those voltages are low, almost dead. My B42 won't go to max with a batt. that low, it steps down imediately. Ramping UP still sounds wierd, but I would still try a fresh battery, or at least something measuring 2.8 volts resting or better. New primaries should measure about 3.20 - 3.25 volts.

Hondo

 

[MarNav1]

I sure hope you can get it fixed, Novatac was worthless about helping me fix mine.

 

[Dizos]

I sure hope you can get it fixed, Novatac was worthless about helping me fix mine.

What is wrong with your flashlight and what was your experience with Novatac?

 

[MarNav1]

Send me a PM so I dont get into hot water with the moderators or Sasha. I dont want to derail his thread either.

 

[souptree]

My U60XRGT does that continually ramping up thing when the battery is too low to power it on the level it's set for. The ramp up goes from very low to as high as the battery will power it. Setting it to a level within the ramp up range, instead of a level above that range stops the ramp up on my light. As the battery drains further, the range is reduced.

I have always seen this as a feature, and figured it's designed to do that. Not only that, but it's a really cool feature! After all, it's not just telling you that the battery is low, it's literally showing you what the battery/light are currently capable of delivering.

I actually use my HDS as a battery drainer for cells that are used in other lights. I run into the depleted cell issue frequently as a result.

I could be totally off base in these observations. This is only my own conjecture based on using my own light. I make no claim to actually knowing what I'm talking about.

I LOVE my HDS. It's amazing how well thought out the interface is. Henry is a true genius.

 

[slvoid]

The cell that's 2.2 volts is actually measuring 2.9 with no load. It's 2.2 under a load of 3 ohms, or close to an amp of current draw. (I hook it up to a giant resistor to measure it). The funny thing is that it was ramping up to a full 42 lumens from .08 using the 2.2V, so it seems like it's able to get there.

I stuck in a fresh 3.2V battery but then it could only hold max for 2-3 seconds before stepping down to a lower level, something's weird with my batteries??

 

[Ty_Bower]

The cell that's 2.2 volts is actually measuring 2.9 with no load. It's 2.2 under a load of 3 ohms, or close to an amp of current draw...

I stuck in a fresh 3.2V battery but then it could only hold max for 2-3 seconds before stepping down to a lower level, something's weird with my batteries??

I've encountered more than one primary CR123A cell that can't deliver a full amp for more than a couple seconds, even when they are brand new. If you really need that kind of performance from your battery (and the HDS does, if you want to run it on the maximum setting) I'd suggest you stick to the premium branded CR123A (Duracell Ultra, maybe others?).

Using the no-load voltage is practically worthless for a primary (non-rechargeable) lithium cell. As you've already seen, a cell which appears to be nearly full voltage at no-load can sink like a stone once you try to pull current from it.

If you feel up to it, I'd suggest you look into li-ion rechargeable cells for your HDS. They have much lower internal resistance, and will cheerfully deliver currents in excess of 1 amp for nearly the full life of the cell. I've got a pair of cheap purple wrapped ~500 mAh rated li-ion cells that I use in my HDS. I bought them a long time ago (almost two years?), use them almost every day, and typically charge them once every week or two. They're still holding up strong, and seldom disappoint me.

 

[slvoid]

@#$!!! Freaking titanium 123A cells.

When I bought the light, they came with two dozen (24!) of them for free (now I know why). I had a batch that measured 2.8-3.2 volts. I remeasured them using my 1amp rig and they were between 2.2-2.6V.

Anyway at work I have a panasonic 123A that delivers 2.8-2.9 under the same load. Popped that in and all's well now so I had the secretary order me a box of energizer and panasonic batteries.

I guess I'll keep the 2 dozen ti's at home for spares.

 

[Oddjob]

Good to hear your problem has been resolved. It would suck to have to reprogram it. Definitley stick with reputable brands or maybe try RCR123's.

 

[slvoid]

Haha yeah, should've gotten an ultimate.
1000 clicks to reprogram it!