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HDS EDC Rotary Pass Around

Joe did PM me to let me know he contacted Lion504 a few days ago, but I want everything posted in the thread.
 
I dont have the same use scenarios as people that wear gunbelts and holsters, but, I still respect and appreciate classic and well designed tools.

There is nothing nefarious about some of us that carry around portable hole punchers. We just want to be able to see where we are looking to be 100% sure of what we are seeing. I can count on the HDS to work 100% of the time. The Chinese lights, not so much.
 
Me, please, Hogo...if I'm not too late. I've been eyeing an HDS forever, but when I got ready to finally buy one, I couldn't decide between the Rotary or one of the clicky versions.
 
Hey lion, tell me if you have the same problem I had with the 123 voltage dropping rapidly. Curious to know if my cells are just old/bad.

I flashed it and nothing changed.

Can't wait for you to get the light. Sorry the shipping took so long. The kid at UPS had me convinced it would of been there MUCH sooner.

Gonna have to see what people think if the 18650 tube.
 
Received the light today. Thanks Joe. And thanks to Hogo for allowing me the opportunity.

I put my primary in and seems to be working fine. Haven't messed with programming. A few initial observations:

- This clicky is really mushy. You really have to hit it dead center. I find that annoying. But perhaps it's been overly fondled. I'm probably not helping this at all... Since it's a rotary, how hard/expensive would it be to fix this?
- Rotary tension is really good. I was expecting something a little looser. Anyways, I like it.
- The rotary gives the impression of a flicker as you fly through the 24 levels. At first I thought that maybe something was wrong, but I've concluded it's just the optical illusion caused by quickly changing the 24 discrete levels.
- I LOVE the access to all 24 levels. I'm looking a little sideways at ol' Mr. Exec after experiencing the riches of 24 vs just the 4...
- Maybe I missed this on the forum, but I don't recall any discussion of the ramping direction. And this next point comes with two caveats. (1) I'm right handed and (2) the ligaments/tendons in my thumbs are pretty bad after years of sports. But I find it much easier to spin the rotary COUNTER CLOCKWISE. Unfortunately that is the direction to turn DOWN the lumens. So if I follow the conventional wisdom and start the light in the lowest low, I have to spin the dial CLOCKWISE to make it brighter. Spinning it clockwise between by thumb and forefinger is unnatural/harder. My normal use case: pull light out, accomplish task, stow light/reset lumen level. My experience has been that it's better to have one-handed light operation at the front end, rather than the back end of the sequence. My point is that going up in lumens one-handed is the more important direction (at least for me). Now, this may seem picky. It is clearly, obviously a flashaholic, first world problem. Or it might just be my own crazy thumbs issue. Wondering whether Henry had any UI data to support making the directional choice he did (qwerty vs dvorak).

Will play with it a little more tomorrow.
 
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Update #1.

I think my critique on the clicky may have been unfair. Maybe it's just a little more recessed? Seems to be easier to manipulate today.

For some reason, I was expecting it to be noticeably taller than the executive. It is taller, but maybe only 1/8th of an inch. Almost imperceptibly bigger.

My last observation is about the smoothness of the rotary. There have been some posts about 'grittiness' when turning. This pass-around sample seems just a tiny bit gritty. If you pay attention, you can feel it.

Bottom line, I like the rotary. If I ever can find room in my heart to love 3 different HDS lights, I would get one. But I think my testing confirmed I made the right choice with my 2 exec clickies (high noon and F89HG).

Finally, I watched a Youtube video of The Professor, and then crossed up some beams (I'm still giggling over the pure white of the high noon 🙂.

Ag78eKr.jpg


Left to right: pass-around sample XPG, High Noon, F89HG, Triple N219C @4000K.
 
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Regarding the use of right hand and turning the tail cap, how about holding it on the tail cap and using the body to alter the brightness levels.................just a thought to try, could be way off! .
 
The "grittiness" is actually the finger contacts going between the contacts on the contact board.
The mushiness is the post in the rubber button being a tad short.

img-1681.jpg
 
I lean to the warmer side of Neutral, but lion's comparison pic makes me lust for a High Noon. I've seen lots of pics, but this is the first one to make me really want one! The thoughts of so many users who use lights differently using the same specimen brings up positives and negatives I may not have thought of, even after reading years of HDS posts.

Regarding the button, I could be way off, but on some of my better sealed lights, I've found the button can be a little harder to press shory after a battery change with air trapped in the body. Using Henry's tip of holding the boot down while closing the light helps, but sometimes by the next morning it has equalized a bit on its own. Then again, as you said, it has been handled a lot (the term "driven like a rental" comes to mind), so... 🙂
 
Thanks for the info. So is the tactile feedback (will no longer call it 'grit') I'm experiencing normal? I know I'm treading on thin ice here ;-), but can you compare the rotary operation of the sample with that of the members who posted about pronounced feedback in one direction? I believe that you mentioned previously that Henry was aware of the latter and was addressing it with a new design. Perhaps it's my OCD acting up, but if the tactile feedback is just normal operation and experienced by 99% of all customers, then it's perfectly acceptable to me. I know, I know, I probably need some counseling..
 
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