HDS HDS Systems #23

LRJ88

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Says the beam pattern of the NLT325 is same as the standard 250 offering...just more lumens.
So I'll go out on a limb and say there's plenty of usable spill.
I find it hard to really see the difference in that from looking at other pictures, i’ve been kinda bitten by too bright hotspot at close ranges, i’d much rather have a direct comparison than get something i won’t use again. The reason i got a D4V2 with W1 and 219BT-V1, is exactly that, long-range high throw and then a nice and warm flood for closer ranges.

Sure thing. To my eyes the spill is the same between the NLT and SDR50. It's the size of the hotspot and the nature of the transition that differs. I'll take photos tonight.


I'm new to HDS but both my battery compartments have a raised button and I'll probably never buy a flush...
Thank you very much, it’s much appreciated.
 

greatscoot

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I have both, but neither in 18650 size. That said there’s two practical differences:
1. You *can* tailstand with flush, you cannot with raised.
2. Raised is *much* easier/faster to operate when you need to get the light on, and also with gloves on.
I like the flush better, just because it looks better to my eye. Otherwise I am happy with both.
I have one flat and 3 raised button lights. As for looks, it’s the opposite for me, the raised button looks better and the flat button looks odd.
 

JohnSmith

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Much easier to have accidental in-pocket activations with the raised button. I was a raised button enthusiast for many years but got tired of finding my light on in my pocket. I tried the flat button and never looked back. All my HDS lights are flat button now. I only have Clickies, so it was an easy swap for me.
 

ekardscribner73

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Yeah, I guess it depends how you carry your lights. Whether in my pocket or in a holster, I've always got some sort of setup keeping the light vertical and easy to deploy. I almost never have accidental activations, so I appreciate the button being easy to locate.
 

ekardscribner73

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Here are some more beamshots. I apologize for the quality. Sold all my nice cameras a few years back so this is all I've got. The first set is from about 3 meters at level 14. This is the lowest I could go with my current camera equipment. The second set is from an obvious distance set to level 11.

20220911_205811.jpg

SDR50

20220911_210054.jpg

NLT 325


20220911_210409.jpg

SDR50

20220911_210431.jpg

NLT 325
 

ekardscribner73

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i’ve been kinda bitten by too bright hotspot at close ranges
I know what you mean, in a way, because that's often how I feel about my M61T. However, these beamshots are deceiving because rather than suffer at the hands of a searing hotspot, you can always just turn the light down a few levels (and save some battery)! There is always a setting that will be comfortable.

The weird-colored transition from hotspot to spill in the XP-G2 is really apparent. The SDR50's beam is quite even and beautiful.

The SDR50's lowest setting appears to be about half the lux of the NLT325, if that makes a difference to you.

After taking these beamshots, I've decided not to sell the SDR50 quite yet. I'm going to use them both for a year or so to see what there is that I haven't discovered yet.
Welp.
 
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LRJ88

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I know what you mean, in a way, because that's often how I feel about my M61T. However, these beamshots are deceiving because rather than suffer at the hands of a searing hotspot, you can always just turn the light down a few levels (and save some battery)! There is always a setting that will be comfortable.

The weird-colored transition from hotspot to spill in the XP-G2 is really apparent. The SDR50's beam is quite even and beautiful.

The SDR50's lowest setting appears to be about half the lux of the NLT325, if that makes a difference to you.

After taking these beamshots, I've decided not to sell the SDR50 quite yet. I'm going to use them both for a year or so to see what there is that I haven't discovered yet.
Thank you for the pictures, they really help.

I tend to end up wanting more dedicated throwers to avoid having to lower the level to suit closer-up work, if i work with something close like that i want to have more of a lit surface rather than a spot with the sharper line between ”good light” and ”just barely working to see sh*t” that follows. It doesn’t help that i’m light sensitive as well, meaning that adjusting to a sharp spot can be even harder at times depending on the situation, a sharp spot in the dark on something reflective with little spill can be almost as painful as looking into the light itself.
 

wayben

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All five of mine have flush buttons, just to try to prevent accidental turn-ons. The button is shallow enough that there is no problem turning them on, even with gloves.
 

kaichu dento

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I think I had one raised switch long before the introduction of the Rotary, but all the rest of my switched Ra/HDS have had the flush option and it will always be my favorite.
 

karp

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I know what you mean, in a way, because that's often how I feel about my M61T. However, these beamshots are deceiving because rather than suffer at the hands of a searing hotspot, you can always just turn the light down a few levels (and save some battery)! There is always a setting that will be comfortable.

The weird-colored transition from hotspot to spill in the XP-G2 is really apparent. The SDR50's beam is quite even and beautiful.

The SDR50's lowest setting appears to be about half the lux of the NLT325, if that makes a difference to you.

After taking these beamshots, I've decided not to sell the SDR50 quite yet. I'm going to use them both for a year or so to see what there is that I haven't discovered yet. Welp.
So are you selling (haha)?

Because honestly, I'm now leaning towards the SDR50 - the reason is that it still looks like it has throw, as it appears to be similar in total dispersion area (have no idea what the official term is) to the NLT, but without the intense hot spot.

What I don't what is what I get out of my Barrel Flashlight Co. Picatiny. Love the quality of the light, but it's 100% flood and I need some distance as my back yard is about 3/4 of an acre.
 

Showngo

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So are you selling (haha)?

Because honestly, I'm now leaning towards the SDR50 - the reason is that it still looks like it has throw, as it appears to be similar in total dispersion area (have no idea what the official term is) to the NLT, but without the intense hot spot.

What I don't what is what I get out of my Barrel Flashlight Co. Picatiny. Love the quality of the light, but it's 100% flood and I need some distance as my back yard is about 3/4 of an acre.
You try changing the lens on the Barrel? But I sold mine because it didn’t work as well.
 

kerneldrop

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So are you selling (haha)?

Because honestly, I'm now leaning towards the SDR50 - the reason is that it still looks like it has throw, as it appears to be similar in total dispersion area (have no idea what the official term is) to the NLT, but without the intense hot spot.

What I don't what is what I get out of my Barrel Flashlight Co. Picatiny. Love the quality of the light, but it's 100% flood and I need some distance as my back yard is about 3/4 of an acre.

NLT all day
 

ekardscribner73

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So are you selling (haha)?

Because honestly, I'm now leaning towards the SDR50 - the reason is that it still looks like it has throw, as it appears to be similar in total dispersion area (have no idea what the official term is) to the NLT, but without the intense hot spot.
Yup. SDR50, raised tail, 18650. It's posted in the marketplace. I'm just going to enjoy it until someone wants to buy it, lol

You're right about the beam. It's still a good, focused beam. (Same reflector, right?) Just a little wider and with a little less punch. More balanced, probably. I'm just a sucker for throw. When Malkoff went to the SST-20 emitter I was very excited.
 

LRJ88

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Has any of you been waiting for the European site with cutlery etc. to restock HDS items? I was told they were expecting to get new stock now in September and most of it’s been sitting at +-3 weeks for well over a month, but when i looked today most items say ”not available” instead. Knowing you’re a bunch of nerds i wanted to ask just in case one of you’d already been in touch with them.
 

WarriorOfLight

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Has any of you been waiting for the European site with cutlery etc. to restock HDS items? <...>
I am sorry to tell you that a few weeks ago when I was checking the K&T site there were 2-3 NB40 and 2-3 NB45 in stock. They were gone after a very few days. Most Rotaries were not in Stock when the NB40 + NB45 were available.
 

LRJ88

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I am sorry to tell you that a few weeks ago when I was checking the K&T site there were 2-3 NB40 and 2-3 NB45 in stock. They were gone after a very few days. Most Rotaries were not in Stock when the NB40 + NB45 were available.
I saw the other ones but they weren't quite what i wanted, i ordered an SDR50 back in July and now i've just been waiting for them to get it and ship it, but dear lord it's taking ages and i'm still all hyped over it but their updates are damn hard to read/get used to.
 

the.Mtn.Man

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Sorry that you lost it. Had a friend lose one on his ranch on horseback... found it a couple years later.
I would beg to differ on the cost... the Ultimate 60 XRGT sold for $295 back in 2004 which would be $462 in todays dollars. The Ultimate 60 XR was $245, the equivalent of $384 today. The Ultimate 60 was $195 or $305 today. A base Executive is $302 today... if we are comparing apples to apples. I'm not saying they are cheap, but they never were.
All I know is that an HDS Rotary today is about twice what I paid for one a decade ago.
 

thermal guy

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You know what it is? It’s resale value.U60’s-U42’s would sell for 80 -90 bucks used back then. Now used HDS lights “because they are basically brand new” sell for damn near the regular selling price.
 
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