HDS HDS Systems #23

desert.snake

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That is a nice HDS, and I would not take a chance on accidentally touching the reflector. There is no amount of cleaning that can be done to take it off.
The reflector does not need to be touched, only the diode. Seem to be I didn't write exactly, you don't need to open the reflector, but unscrew the reflector with the bezel so that it's like this. The reflector will be safe
1674654164096.png

What is on the diode here can be both scratches and traces of thermal paste and a piece of adhesive tape or some kind of film. Until you unscrew and look under a magnifying glass, you can't say for sure
1674657340666.png


It's like clean binoculars, you can clean everything, or you can ruin everything
 

Spyder333

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The reflector does not need to be touched, only the diode. Seem to be I didn't write exactly, you don't need to open the reflector, but unscrew the reflector with the bezel so that it's like this. The reflector will be safe
View attachment 38302
What is on the diode here can be both scratches and traces of thermal paste and a piece of adhesive tape or some kind of film. Until you unscrew and look under a magnifying glass, you can't say for sure
View attachment 38306

It's like clean binoculars, you can clean everything, or you can ruin everything

Thanks for that information. If I'm feeling brave enough one day I may do that. The light works perfectly though, and I assume it's been calibrated to account for any effect that spot may have on the lumen output.

If I do open it up, should I just try rubbing the LED dome with an alcohol wipe to see if that removes the spot? Not sure how delicate the dome is.
 

desert.snake

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Thanks for that information. If I'm feeling brave enough one day I may do that. The light works perfectly though, and I assume it's been calibrated to account for any effect that spot may have on the lumen output.

If I do open it up, should I just try rubbing the LED dome with an alcohol wipe to see if that removes the spot? Not sure how delicate the dome is.

I used 95% medical ethyl alcohol, everything was fine. But it takes very little for the cotton wool to be barely damp.
I did this with regular cotton wool or a cotton disc for female faces. Alcohol wipes can scratch, I learned this from an expensive monitor and lint-free alcohol wipes that were intended for optics and screens
1674667859890.png
 

KITROBASKIN

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Great to see such nice flashlights. Canned air can be used for dust on reflectors. One should be careful to keep the can upright when using it, thinking. That is such an excellent design; keeping the reflector separate from the emitter.
 

desert.snake

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When I was looking for a suitable picture for the previous previous message, at first I did not notice, but now I noticed the intestines of the old osram golden dragon. The inside is also beautiful, never seen before. I looked at this controller, even if you buy in bulk, I guess henry tests them as carefully as he tests diodes and the part goes to the trash, right?


Here is that message, but I copied the photo from there, because I do not know how long they will live there
 

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Hogokansatsukan

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I assume it's been calibrated to account for any effect that spot may have on the lumen output.
It would have been calibrated just as it is. Once they come to me for calibration, I NEVER open them up. They are calibrated with the head completely intact (reflector/bezel/lens) as one unit that will be shipped.
 

E=mAh²

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I received my EDC Custom Rotary. I knew it the moment I picked it up. this is a great light. I can't wait for night. View attachment 38287 View attachment 38288 View attachment 38289
Dang I forgot how sexy the black bezel looks especially with the lower profile flush switch.

That almost looks darker black than previous variants, or at least that I have had on my lights or seen on others.

Thinking back now, I remember to my surprise the black bezels seemed to soak up (or hide) the scratches/blemishes better than the original naked stainless in my experience.

Damn, I haven't second guessed any of my options up till this point... Thanks alot! :banghead: :crazy:
 

aginthelaw

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To my cpf/hds community:
I have adult adhd and the absence of hourly updates on my expensive property bought with my hard earned pittance tugs at my psyche. That being said, your lights, parts, repairs are all being taken care of as quickly as a two man shop can. This particular 2 man shop has an eye for detail that can be a hindrance to speedy delivery times but yet is one I can appreciate. Sending your light or buying your light from hds is the difference between a car wash and detailing. Which one would you prefer on that ‘76 grand torino with candy apple red paint with a white swoosh on the side when the sun is shining down the a bevy of beauties playing a volleyball tournament at the beach?
 

muichimon

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Dang I forgot how sexy the black bezel looks especially with the lower profile flush switch.

That almost looks darker black than previous variants, or at least that I have had on my lights or seen on others.

Thinking back now, I remember to my surprise the black bezels seemed to soak up (or hide) the scratches/blemishes better than the original naked stainless in my experience.

Damn, I haven't second guessed any of my options up till this point... Thanks alot! :banghead: :crazy:
Since this is my first HDS light, I was worried while looking at the image of the HDS thread. Stainless steel silver can also be used as an accent, but the black bezel has the same black nitride finish as the rotary switch cap, so this time I chose a sense of unity. I've only used it for a few days, but it's a very good light that I can feel the developer Henry's strong commitment to.
 

E=mAh²

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Thanks lion504. I bought the 3700 while waiting a year for the NB35 and really liked it during that time. I also thought about converting it to rotary since I liked it so much. But after receiving the 3500 it’s gets less use. I didn’t notice any green tint for the 3700 but oddly I find the temp of the 3700 to be warmer than the 3500. 3700 is more golden and warm while the 3500 reminds me of an off white cream color, like vanilla ice cream. The overall feeling of the 3500 is very nice.

*edited color of 3700 as more golden rather than orange*
I too see the 3700 as warmer than the 35 at least per your pic but the NB40 while technically the same temp looks noticably warmer than the ss40, again, at least it appears that way to me in that specific line up.

Should get my NB40 Monday, pretty excited, what do you prefer between NB40 and SS40? I had a clicky with ss40 but sold it while back I liked it ok but it was weird for whatever reason it looked significantly different than malkoff drop INS and MDCs I have with the same emitter who knows:unsure:
 

neco

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I too see the 3700 as warmer than the 35 at least per your pic but the NB40 while technically the same temp looks noticably warmer than the ss40, again, at least it appears that way to me in that specific line up.

Should get my NB40 Monday, pretty excited, what do you prefer between NB40 and SS40? I had a clicky with ss40 but sold it while back I liked it ok but it was weird for whatever reason it looked significantly different than malkoff drop INS and MDCs I have with the same emitter who knows:unsure:

I prefer the NB40 a lot more than the SS40. I ended up selling my SS40 after I realized how much more I like the Nichia’s over it. I liked the NB40 so much I ended up getting one I. Rotary and one in Clicky. The 519a’s have got me interested as well. Will just have to see what they look like once HDS releases them as stock options. The domed vs de-domed thing looks complicated though, don’t want to have to go through so many versions to find the perfect one
 

TheJLew85

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I prefer the NB40 a lot more than the SS40. I ended up selling my SS40 after I realized how much more I like the Nichia’s over it. I liked the NB40 so much I ended up getting one I. Rotary and one in Clicky. The 519a’s have got me interested as well. Will just have to see what they look like once HDS releases them as stock options. The domed vs de-domed thing looks complicated though, don’t want to have to go through so many versions to find the perfect one
I am the exact opposite. I used to love the nb40 (still do). I picked up the SS40 when they first came out and compared the two. I went back and forth for a while but the SS40 won in the end. I feel like it has very slightly better cri and I prefer the yellowish tint of the SS40 over the redder tint of the nb40. So I sold the nb40. Both great emitters tho. And if I could, I would own both.
 

kj2

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Damn… I paid 309 Euro for a rotary Nichia 219B a couple of months ago at K&T… now it’s 475.53
Haven't checked for awhile, and just saw this pricing last week. I mean.. I digg HDS lights.. but €500?!
I know, small company, small production batches, has to be imported. But for what it is, for how it performs.. damn..
 

Mr. LED

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Haven't checked for awhile, and just saw this pricing last week. I mean.. I digg HDS lights.. but €500?!
I know, small company, small production batches, has to be imported. But for what it is, for how it performs.. damn..
I agree, you can buy at least 4 Zebralight for this price.
 

jonathannnc

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Purchased another Sw30 rotary after regretfully selling my last and I’m so glad I did. Thanks Henry, thanks Hogo. I genuinely appreciate this light and the work you guys do. I also repurchased my nlt325 executive I sold a bit ago. 6 HDS’s so far in this journey and my only regret is selling my first 4. Next to my Hive 119v 4000k haiku.
D5D5A65D-30F8-4E55-9338-DEAC6E036801.jpeg
4AD541D3-1744-4E4A-98F6-79994A20FDB9.jpeg
 

kaichu dento

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Purchased another Sw30 rotary after regretfully selling my last and I’m so glad I did. Thanks Henry, thanks Hogo. I genuinely appreciate this light and the work you guys do. I also repurchased my nlt325 executive I sold a bit ago. 6 HDS’s so far in this journey and my only regret is selling my first 4. Next to my Hive 119v 4000k haiku. View attachment 38946 View attachment 38947
Classic pairing of lights if there ever was one would have to be the Rotary and Haiku! The lettering on the new bezels has really come a long way and looks fantastic; I may have to order one.
 

Lights and Guns

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Haven't checked for awhile, and just saw this pricing last week. I mean.. I digg HDS lights.. but €500?!
I know, small company, small production batches, has to be imported. But for what it is, for how it performs.. damn..
Yeah, I've always eyed an HDS.
I think what I like most about them is the "retro" bare bones... late 1990's look to them. I honestly really like how they look...

The price isn't really where they lose me, it's the output (or lack there of) that has stopped me and continues to stop me every time I visit their website or see one of their lights in the B/S/T. 250 lumens max is quite ridiculous especially for the amount of money they are asking for the product. I guess for most EDC tasks that will suffice, but I enjoy having a lot more light in my pocket than that, just on the off chance I need it; with that said, there are tons of other options around the same size and price that offer double or triple the output and are also bombproof lights (much like a malkoff). Just doesn't make sense to me. But I may be missing something.
 

WarriorOfLight

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Haven't checked for awhile, and just saw this pricing last week. I mean.. I digg HDS lights.. but €500?!
I know, small company, small production batches, has to be imported. But for what it is, for how it performs.. damn..
Here is my explanation. If it is correct I do not know. K&T are located somewhere in the EU. Therefore they must pay import tax, which is ~25% of the item value. Also they must pay 75$ for shipping.
At the end K&T will also have a financial gain at the end if they are selling a HDS. The exchange between USD and EUR is also different from the times the lase prices were calculated at K&T.
Years ago the rate was 1.25USD for 1€. Today we are more near at 1:1

The only point I do not know if K&T pays the same end customer price we all pay, or if there is a price table for reseller. My guess is there is only one price for all....
 

cerbie

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Yeah, I've always eyed an HDS.
I think what I like most about them is the "retro" bare bones... late 1990's look to them. I honestly really like how they look...

The price isn't really where they lose me, it's the output (or lack there of) that has stopped me and continues to stop me every time I visit their website or see one of their lights in the B/S/T. 250 lumens max is quite ridiculous especially for the amount of money they are asking for the product. I guess for most EDC tasks that will suffice, but I enjoy having a lot more light in my pocket than that, just on the off chance I need it; with that said, there are tons of other options around the same size and price that offer double or triple the output and are also bombproof lights (much like a malkoff). Just doesn't make sense to me. But I may be missing something.
High output is definitely not going to happen. I don't know whether Henry chooses the limits based on Watts into the body/surface temp, purely LED temp, time on high, or what, but overdriving and letting it get burning hot are both no-nos. Malkoff has no such qualms. Unfortunately, lm/W has not been increasing much, over the last several years, and that's what it will take to get much higher outputs in HDS lights. Thing is, I can count the times I've needed >100lm for EDC on zero fingers. Generally, when it comes to that, I'm doing something specific, that I've had time to prepare for, so can grab another, bigger, light, that has more mass and surface area.

But, there are the lows, and programming. Few other factory lights can offer the level of customization you get with an HDS, and none of them are in the same ballpark, quality-wise, save maybe for the trickle of BOSSes (Lumintop and BLF drama comes to mind, plus the coarseness and hysteresis of most Hall-type rotaries). Malkoff, FI, has no programmability at all - maximum KISS.

Also, having owned and used both extensively, I have to give HDS an edge on toughness, over an MDC. Not that you should worry about the durability of one, it's just anazing how well my HDSes take - and deal - damage, like old Innovas.

Though, it's hard to beat the MDC pocket clip. McGizmo perfected it, and Malkoff offers it at a fraction of the cost, in a black HA that can aesthetically match various E-series heads. It's clear Henry is not a pocket clip guy, and HDSes would need a major redesign to implement that nice of one.
 
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KITROBASKIN

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Seems like an HDS could be turned on maximum for as long as the battery lasts, many many times. Even when it is several years old, it is safe to think that the emitter has not been cooked with hot use and will continue to be reliable for cave use (or other needs where reliability is more important than juicing the LED and getting eventual burn out)?
 
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