We just need to wait a bit for the output of 3V LED with 1000 lm / W and everything will be fine
I’m one of those.One of the reasons we always hear folks who buy their first HDS say "it's a lot brighter than I thought it would be."
I get that. And I can also see how it seems like there are a lot of wasted levels. I I do love, my executive clicky, but the rotary knob is unbelievable for a quick operation from low to medium to high brightness. I think the answer is to just have both. And carry them at the same time. Yep I’m gonna go with that.My only hang up with the rotary is you gotta turn all the way to level 19 to get above 20 lumens.
I know, I know… 2.44 HDS lumens at level 13 is enough for us hardusers.
I’m in the executive camp
That's why my rotaries are Tactical. They would be improved by a detent prior to going momentary, but I like the reduced twisting all the same.My only hang up with the rotary is you gotta turn all the way to level 19 to get above 20 lumens.
I know, I know… 2.44 HDS lumens at level 13 is enough for us hardusers.
I’m in the executive camp
Yes, all the time during our power outages, turn it on step 2, 3, 4 and leave it on in the room I am in, also at night outdoors in a blind when dark adapted, although I like my red nest for that.What can be seen by .02 lumen?
Steps 1-5 range from .02 - .10 lumen…does anyone use those steps?
Completely agree.The single emitter/deep reflector design matters too. 300 Lumens out of an HDS, Malkoff, Zebralight, Haiku, etc. is a lot more useful than 300 lumens out of a triple/quad emitter/TIR light.
Sometimes it is too much lightThe lowest level is enough light to get around in the middle of the night.
Haha, exactly. I use a Jetbeam RRT01 rotary when I need less than .02 lumenSometimes it is too much light![]()