HDS Systems #23

WarriorOfLight

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Good morning gents. Can someone help me out and tell me what LED this is?

View attachment 41657
I do not think it is a 219B, the PCB should be White. I checked all my 219B HDS, all white PCB, and believe me I have plenty 219B HDS lights.
The PCB change was between High Noon / 3 o clock - both 2nd run and the legendary final group buy that Hogo offered 2700-4000K 219C LED.

What ring color is on the battery contact?
 

Kalsu

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I do not think it is a 219B, the PCB should be White. I checked all my 219B HDS, all white PCB, and believe me I have plenty 219B HDS lights.
The PCB change was between High Noon / 3 o clock - both 2nd run and the legendary final group buy that Hogo offered 2700-4000K 219C LED.

What ring color is on the battery contact?
The ring color on the battery contact is red.
 

WarriorOfLight

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The ring color on the battery contact is red.
IRed means 200lm if I remember correctly. I would bet on a NC50 or NC57. That would also correspond to the Green PCB. If you have the feeling it is NB4 than I would be more @ NC50 singe the difference between 4500K and 5000K is not that big.

Btw. If it is a NC50 - 3 o clock - than you have a really cool flashlight. There are only two runs of it.... You do not see them offered that often.
 
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Kalsu

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IRed means 200lm if I remember correctly. I would bet on a NC50 or NC57. That would also correspond to the Green PCB. If you have the feeling it is NB4 than I would be more @ NC50 singe the difference between 4500K and 5000K is not that big.

Btw. If it is a NC50 - 3 o clock - than you have a really cool flashlight. There are only two runs of it.... You do not see them offered that often.
Interesting. Thanks for all that information. Now I am really curious. It does look warmer than my SDR50 if that matters.
 

WarriorOfLight

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Interesting. Thanks for all that information. Now I am really curious. It does look warmer than my SDR50 if that matters.
You really have an interesting light. The PCB does not match to the LED :D The LED looks like a 219B and not 219C. Also the Head does not looks to me the light was modded. The gray stuff seems to be untouched. I mean the stuff around the PCB and one of the screws...

219B NB45 came after the legendary low k run. If I remember correctly a few NB45 and also NB40 were available for Aluminium Lights. The most of this LEDs were used in Brass, Bronze and Titanium...

Maybe Hogo can identify "NBX", at least that is what I read on the PCB as marking...
 
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Kalsu

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You really have an interesting light. The PCB does not match to the LED :D The LED looks like a 219B and not 219C. Also the Head does not looks to me the light was modded. The gray stuff seems to be untouched. I mean the stuff around the PCB and one of the screws...

219B NB45 came after the legendary low k run. If I remember correctly a few NB45 and also NB40 were available for Aluminium Lights. The most of this LEDs were used in Brass, Bronze and Titanium...

Maybe Hogo can identify "NBX", at least that is what I read on the PCB as marking...
That is what I read it as to. As far as I know the light has not been tampered with. What ever the LED is it has a very pleasant tint. Hopefully Hogo can help out here.
 

jon_slider

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.. NB4. That would correspond to the PCB, the warmer color ...
it is definitely a 219b of some sort

I agree it is probably the old standard High CRI 219b 4000K 9050..

the HDS clicky I gave my son on his 17th birthday has an NB40 in it.
compare the color of that light to your NB "+"
it will help narrow down if your mystery 219b is 4000K or 3000K...
 

Kalsu

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it is definitely a 219b of some sort

I agree it is probably the old standard High CRI 219b 4000K 9050..


compare the color of that light to your NB "+"
it will help narrow down if your mystery 219b is 4000K or 3000K...

Oh yeah I totally forgot that my sons light is a 4k. I will check that out.
 

Lights and Guns

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Looks like I'm joining the HDS club--bought a basic Rotary from another CPFer. An original LuxV Surefire U2 has been my EDC for a billion years, and I used to have a UB3T, UM2, and a T1A I never really warmed up to. Always thought "something like this in one CR123 would be perfect" and here we are. Big fan of selector ring lights.
welcome to the club, I just grabbed an HDS rotary after many years of being on the fence. Love it and can't see myself needing to carry anything else for EDC. Shoulda pulled the trigger on one ages ago.
 

muichimon

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Hi all, unrelated to the current discussion, but I went on a Nichia spree and now have the NB30, NB35, and NB40. I liked the idea of a warmer one and a cooler one. I am happy with the NB30 and NB40 (I got the NB30 after I decided I wanted to go warmer than the NB35).

The question is (and this never ends!)-should I get an NB27 as my warm HDS instead of the NB30?

Thoughts from people who have one and/or who like warm lights?
I would also like to see a comparison between NB27 and NB30. I recently bought an NB45, so next time I'm leaning toward the opposite 2700k NB27. I still like low color temperatures so much that I use Incan lights, so I think I'll like it.
 
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So glad I finally found a high noon! It is awesome.
7520751E-85A3-46FA-A0D2-2578CE9B92E9.jpeg
 

RPC

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I have a "3:00" High Noon, the 5700K High Noon is toward the top of my want list.

If I can ask, where'd you find this one?
 
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I have a "3:00" High Noon, the 5700K High Noon is toward the top of my want list.

If I can ask, where'd you find this one?
i found it on here as stated by ninja :) I had the 3 o clock and the high noon and after comparing both I sold the 3 o clock and kept the high noon. Not a huge difference but I prefer the high noon.
 

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