HDS Systems #23

WarriorOfLight

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You may know this compare between HDS Lights with NA52, SDR50, SDW57, NC5 (3 o' clock) and NC57 (high noon). I did this some time ago (~ a year or so).
Maybe this helps to decide since NA52 and SDR50 is both at the moment available @ HDS.

 

Rstype

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I do recall you posted this w good while ago but it helped for me to compare the two emitters currently available at HDS. Thanks for that.

I think the NA52 would have a tighter hotspot than the sdr50. Even with the 200 on the na52 and 300 lumens with the sdr50

Anybody have the Na52 ?
 

bartekreaper

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Poland, Wroclaw
I do recall you posted this w good while ago but it helped for me to compare the two emitters currently available at HDS. Thanks for that.

I think the NA52 would have a tighter hotspot than the sdr50. Even with the 200 on the na52 and 300 lumens with the sdr50

Anybody have the Na52 ?
If thats the 519A 5700K i have one modded with this LED but DD so CCT is about ~4200K and alightly more throw + artifacts on white wall from domeless.
 

ilikeguns40

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Western PA
I do recall you posted this w good while ago but it helped for me to compare the two emitters currently available at HDS. Thanks for that.

I think the NA52 would have a tighter hotspot than the sdr50. Even with the 200 on the na52 and 300 lumens with the sdr50

Anybody have the Na52 ?
I had owned one. Hotspot was a little tighter than the SDR50, however I felt it was a bit underpowered. Still nice, but if I had to choose between NA52 and SDR50, I'd pick SDR50, but that's just my taste. Can't really go wrong with NA52
IMG_1242.jpeg

SDR50 left- NA52 middle
 
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jon_slider

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SDR50 left- NA52 middle
IMG_1242.jpeg


useful photo thanks, it shows that the SDR50 (Samsung LH351d 5000K) has greener Tint, than NA52 (Nichia 519a 5700K)

I would choose Nichia (NA52), because it is less green, and higher CRI (better Red Color Rendering), than Samsung (SDR50).

The Nichia (NA52) is imo the Best Daylight White LED available. It is also the LED that both Hogo and Henry use in their personal lights.

The Nichia has slightly cooler (whiter) color temperature and supersedes the Samsung in CRI and Tint.
 
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Rstype

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I like that the nichia is whiter in tint. I did detect that slight green in the Samsung , so I'll avoid that for now.

I was so sure I wanted a rotary, but now I'm thinking hmmm

I got a 123 body in clicky
I got a 18650 body now in clicky

Should I complete the circle and get a
2x AA 🤣

Or start another set but in rotary …. Decisions decisions …..
 

elzilcho

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Apr 27, 2016
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I found that, when comparing the SDR50 and NA52 against actual sunlight, the SDR50 rendered colors more accurately in many cases. There's a preference in the market for increased reds in emitters nowadays but the sun doesn't follow trends. When holding both next to a patch of sunlight (mid-day, northern hemisphere, spring--basically a week ago or so), the NA52 showed up very pink, whereas what I assumed would be a similar green influence from the SDR50 actually appeared closer to accurate. The sun really doesn't accentuate reds all that much, but there's a lot more green going on in natural lighting than might be expected.

I'm sure everyone's eyes will see things differently. Normally I pick out green like it's the only color in the room, so the comparison was a surprise.

ETA: The comparison was done with the HDS version of each emitter.
 

WarriorOfLight

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I like the 2AA body. Makes the HDS really versatile, Eneloops are working fine! :)

Here a compare of all existing rotary Options (including 18350 & 18500). Most members here should know this picture.



And here a compare of 123, 18650 and 2xAA I did long time ago on a German forum. On this pictures you can see the accurate size of the bodies:



(Important: ruler is metric, since my world is metric)
 
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tex.proud

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Mar 31, 2016
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Texas
Changing things up again.

I was using the HDS Universal clip, covered in heat shrink, and a band of heat shrink around it on the bezel to ensure that the set screws didn't fall out.

I'm now trying the clip from my Lumintop FW3A under the bezel. I know Henry says not to do it like this, but so many people do. It's not a perfect fit, but fits well enough.

You can see on the left side of the light that it is a little recessed, while it is a little proud on the right side. This is due to it being slightly larger diameter than the threads, and the clip pressure pulling it to that side. It is however much smaller, and much better ergonomically in hand.

Lumintop FW3A Copper 3500K and HDS Rotary CR123 5000K

hdsc.jpg


Carry On!
 

Mgizler

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Mar 10, 2011
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I want to grab another rotary, and was considering the 325. How much of a difference is it over the 250. I love the narrow throw of the 250. Is the 325 the same, or is it more of a flood? I kind of remember reading somewhere on here long ago that the 325 was not a thrower. Really cant remember for certain thought.
 

desert.snake

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I want to grab another rotary, and was considering the 325. How much of a difference is it over the 250. I love the narrow throw of the 250. Is the 325 the same, or is it more of a flood? I kind of remember reading somewhere on here long ago that the 325 was not a thrower. Really cant remember for certain thought.
The 325 (Cree XP-L HD) has a slightly wider beam in the hotspot, the range is about the same as the 250 or a little less. The NLT version has the same beam shape as the 250, but hits a little further. He's great
 
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