I saw it because half the emitter was darker at low levels. Then when I looked closer I can see a line where the dome is separated. I don't see any tool marks or scuffing that'd make me think someone tried to de-dome it, but who knows. Seller was an experienced HDS owner who claims he didn't notice this or a missing body O-ring.
HDS Systems #23
- Thread starter Hogokansatsukan
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I saw it because half the emitter was darker at low levels. Then when I looked closer I can see a line where the dome is separated. I don't see any tool marks or scuffing that'd make me think someone tried to de-dome it, but who knows. Seller was an experienced HDS owner who claims he didn't notice this or a missing body O-ring.
jonathannnc
Enlightened
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Wow… nb45 looks a lot better IMO. Thanks for the comparisons!
WarriorOfLight
Flashlight Enthusiast
I also did a compare 😀
NA52 is a little bit more on the yellow side NB45 is a bit more on the red / rosy side.
jon_slider
Flashaholic
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Great photo, that does look like a problem
If HDS does not want to give you a free replacement head, I suggest you send the light to Andy Zhu and have him install a High CRI LED.
For example a Nichia 519a in your choice of color temperature. I recommend Not choosing DeDomed, as it ruins the border of the hotspot.
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Jonathan is right, XPG3 dome is holding up very weakly. Once I did dedoming by accident, when there was a piece of some dirt on the diode and I wanted to wipe it off with a cotton swab 😳 (It wasn't HDS)
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Does anyone have both an HDS with the NB45 and a Haiku with the 119V to compare? I like the selection offered in the McGizmos, they have a touch of pink but not too much. Some of the HDS beamshots look much rosier but it's difficult to tell on a screen. Interested to hear if someone who has both can estimate how similar (or not) the bins are between the two. I'm hoping there's enough blue in the HDS to make my brain happy.
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Been a clicky guy for a long time and I'm glad I decided to try a rotary, it's simply perfection. A one and done light in NB45.
jon_slider
Flashaholic
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Schokokeks
Enlightened
I don't know where people follow the latest news, but I'm going to hope the new one will still have some kind of rotary UI, there will be a lower output AA version (~120 lumens), use 519A emitters, and the tailcap boot will use a user-replaceable boot a la Malkoff (the o-ring holding it into the hole).
Or, that's at least what I really, really want to believe is all true, so I can justify not spending a couple hundred bucks in the near future, haha.
Clearly you're not following the latest news. A rotary control has been confirmed for the new model. 519A emitters are already in use for the current models. Henry won't make a boot just like Malkoff does, his designs follow a different style. But I wish the rubber button can be user replaceable.
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Just my musing: A possible solution to that would be making the rotary cap two pieces. The boot could just be held in place by a retaining ring that screws into the existing setup (much like SureFire E series tail caps) and not disturb the tail where it locks into the body. There would be no risk of breaking the "fingers" that sense the position of the tail cap.
The end part of the tail might need to be thicker, so it can accommodate threads for the retaining ring and a bottom "shelf" to prevent over tightening of the retaining ring (that would damage the round IC board underneath). Tightening the retaining ring would seal the tail by sandwiching the lip of the button against that bottom shelf.
Schokokeks
Enlightened
I am 100% not following the latest news, hahah. Thanks for the update.
Out of curiosity, where do people hear the word on the street? I read a this entire post, and the one previous to it, but there isn't as much that's recent (the portion I quoted was 20 pages and a year ago).
Schokokeks
Enlightened
Yeah, I think there are a good amount of options that could be implemented, versus having to remove the entire tailcap - which is recommended against.
I could see someone wanting to avoid having two parts in a rotating tailcap (that could loosen), but as you point out, there are ways to deal with that.
The Malkoff solution is pretty simple; the boot is held in place into a groove via an o-ring, and it's a very quick change:
It holds up really well, is super easy to maintain, and is really low cost.
I can appreciate maybe not wanting to adopt the entire McClicky switch (I've never head anyone complain about the SWITCH on an HDS), but the boot situation really is the Achilles' heel of the design. It's a wear item (in addition to the puffing up part that seems to [arguably fairly] annoy a lot of people who got a flush switch to tailstand), but cannot be easily remedied. A simple easy-to-swap design would go a long way, as I think sending it in for a repair from within the U.S. is kind of an expensive ask, so I can't even fathom how much more that has to sting for people outside the U.S.
HDS could still get one made for them, etc., and not have to use a some kind of off-the-shelf solution, but it seems like being able to order a light and the regular "maintenance parts" would be a great fit for a brand emphasizing reliability, where a simple tear in a rubber part can take it out of action.
This thread has the latest news brought by @Hogokansatsukan
A few weeks ago he posted that HDS is moving machining and electronics in house so they'll be self sufficient. Limited runs will be easier and faster. Also they stopped ordering parts for clicky and rotary a while ago, a new model will be introduced when these run out. So machining in house could mean they'll also start producing new models from the start. He said the moving could be complete until the end of the years. Let's hope so.
Big props to Henry at HDS--11 day turnaround and I have the light back with a new head and new O-ring. He said he'd never seen a failure like this before. Buying it was frustrating but dealing with the company wasn't. Right up there with Streamlight and Ruger for customer service.
Now I'm stuck with the age-old problem of deciding which HDS to carry.
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Schokokeks
Enlightened
Okay, I SWEAR I read that, but for the life of me couldn't find where I saw that, so it's great knowing I'm not losing my mind, haha. I spent half the morning trying to confirm that, but I'm under the weather...
That does sound really cool, and like something that would really allow them to be a lot more dynamic. I'm thinking I might keep my fingers crossed for a single AA rotary with a 4000K 519A. Seems like if they're going to make a new light, there's likely not a lot of point in capping things specifically for the CR123A (calibrating to not exceed the CR123A draw limits), but a lower-power only AA would be a fantastic fit, since the majority of the current rotary's output levels are well within the range you can get comfortably from a single AA. To me, that seems a bit like a "peanut butter and jelly" combo, AND a lot of AA lights these days tend to focus on 14500 hot-rodding, so something with the opposite focus could be a great addition to the market (plus, the 519As tend to maintain great CRI at low levels, so another good fit).
Can't wait to see this new rotary. It's hard to imagine it being better than the current models, as I feel they are perfect. User replaceable rubber boots, better clip options, and possibly a AA/14500 model that would be thinner than a CR123 light. However I do really like the CR123/16340 battery setup
Schokokeks
Enlightened
Yeah, your picture of the black head one is making it very hard to resist. I generally prefer the more neutral 519A to the 219B, but they only have the 519A in ~5000K (which I think would be interesting to try, since that's my upper range of acceptable beams), so it's been a bit easier to resist.
I only recently got into 16340 cells (Elzetta Alpha and a Malkoff with the VME head), and I'm finding they are pretty nice. Surprisingly compact, and you CAN use a primary if need be. I still prefer NiMH AA the most, and it seems like the reliability and lower output of the HDS rotary would be such a perfect fit for the format. I have XL hands, so the ever-so-slightly taller AA tends to make a light that sits about perfectly in my hand vs. 16340.
I've been wanting a rotary for a few years, and looking more seriously into it recently, the rubber boot situation just seems like something that I'd hate myself over the second I'm having to deal with mailing it back to HDS for, hahha. As weird as it sounds, I'd probably jump on it as a "buy once, cry once" holy grail if I could simply swap out simple parts if they broke/wore out. I don't think the inflating ruining tail standing would be the worst thing for me, but it also wouldn't be the best. And again, having to possible mail it off if it causes an issue is kind of depressing for a light whose primary feature set is centered around reliability.
I used to worry about the rotary boot life expectancy and mailing it back to get it fixed but I've moved past that. I've always bought the clicky HDS because of that. Recently I decided to try the rotary and I'm super pleased I did. It's perfect. If I have an issue way down the road I'll mail it back. I wouldn't let the boot discourage you from getting one. HDS has excellent CS and they will take care of you. Best thing (if you got the funds) is to purchase 2 rotaries or just purchase a rotary body only and keep one as a backup in case you need to send one in and you won't be without a light
Schokokeks
Enlightened
Oh, lord... that would solve my dilemma of the 2xAA and/or the CR123A body, hahah.
I've also been thinking of grabbing a CR123A one, assuming it will be a neat "legacy piece" as the new ones roll out.
The hard part is this is my birthday present to myself, so I COULD spend the money, but the other part of me wants to blow the money making a hilarious 7xD-Cell Malkoff Mag using 10 aH NiMH batteries, hahaha. I think the rotary would be a great light around the house at night, and I think the Malkoff Mag would just be a great piece of goofy fun. I also kind of want to still grab a non-Ultra Eiger head so I can swap between those...
Ironically, I think your posts on the Peaks are what finally pushed me into getting an Eiger, so I guess it's only fitting if you're responsible for me getting a rotary...
I feel like the Venn diagram for guns and US made, ultra-nice flashlights is almost two overlapping circles, haha.
