HDS Systems #23

[jon_slider]

Big props to Henry at HDS--11 day turnaround and I have the light back with a new head and new O-ring. He said he'd never seen a failure like this before.

Wow! Outstanding Customer Service.. Congratulations ;-)

and possibly a AA/14500 model that would be thinner than a CR123 light

this post suggests the new model will be based on an 18500 body:

An 18500 tube would be right between the 123 and 18650 tube. A perfect size.
With the proper spacer, you could run a CR123, an RCR123, and 18350, and if the elf was packed off and a gnome replaced him, a single AA.

 

[Schokokeks]

Wow! Outstanding Customer Service.. Congratulations ;-)

this post suggests the new model will be based on an 18500 body:

That's even better, especially if there ends up being an AA head.
18500 is a really nice size, and with some spacers and sleeves, it can fit all kinds of neat arrangements without being too large. 500mm cells tend to result in bodies that fit my hand absolutely perfectly.

I think I need to start buying some Treasuries to set aside money for when this launches, hahha.

Thanks so much for finding that quote. I spend entirely too long looking for that this morning.

 

[Mr. LED]

this post suggests the new model will be based on an 18500 body:

18500 is too long for my EDC needs, I prefer 18350, current batteries have 1600mAh, it also fits 16340 and CR123 without needing a spacer.

 

[desert.snake]

Unexpected reminder. I noticed that one of the legs of the chair was grinding the floor surface more than the other 3 legs. Upon inspection, it turned out that a metal object was embedded in the wood, which was grinding the coating. It turned out to be one of the HDS Twisty arcs, which once fell out of the head when I tried to lift it a little, since the turning distance between modes was less than 1/10 of the head turn, I thought I had lost it forever. But now I don't have a this flashlight))) If anyone needs it, I'll send it to you when the opportunity arises. Although it was difficult to solder, this metal does not stick well to solder even with phosphoric acid

 

[jon_slider]

if there ends up being an AA head

speculation runs rampant ahead, I have no inside info:

I dont think HDS is going to create a separate body tube nor head for AA..

my impression is they are planning a single redesign based on the 18500 body tube. The tube length will also fit 14500..

The driver may or may not be redesigned to allow use of 1.5V batteries (my guess is not), but the host will still use the same 18500 body tube and head, regardless what battery it runs.

The one feature I hope HDS adds to the driver, is a battery check function, such as Zebralight uses.. But essentially the existing driver will still work without need for redesign.

imo the main purpose of the redesign is to allow for greater battery capacity than 16340, while still retaining the ability to use CR123a, for the market segment that continues to rely on them.

My guess is the UI (Rotary), will stay the same. I do hope the new body tube will be tapped for a screw on pocket clip, and that the tailcap design will incorporate a user replaceable rubber button. Maybe the button will change to metal, though I believe it would still have rubber under it.. (for water sealing.)

 

[Schokokeks]

speculation runs rampant ahead, I have no inside info:

I dont think HDS is going to create a separate body tube nor head for AA..

my impression is they are planning a single redesign based on the 18500 body tube. The tube length will also fit 14500..

The driver may or may not be redesigned to allow use of 1.5V batteries (my guess is not), but the host will still use the same 18500 body tube and head, regardless what battery it runs.

The one feature I hope HDS adds to the driver, is a battery check function, such as Zebralight uses.. But essentially the existing driver will still work without need for redesign.

imo the main purpose of the redesign is to allow for greater battery capacity than 16340, while still retaining the ability to use CR123a, for the market segment that continues to rely on them.

My guess is the UI (Rotary), will stay the same. I do hope the new body tube will be tapped for a screw on pocket clip, and that the tailcap design will incorporate a user replaceable rubber button. Maybe the button will change to metal, though I believe it would still have rubber under it.. (for water sealing.)

I think this part is what makes me wonder about an AA head:

With the proper spacer, you could run a CR123, an RCR123, and 18350, and if the elf was packed off and a gnome replaced him, a single AA.

Gnomes are smaller than elfs, hahahah.

But yeah, I am hoping a new design is maybe to move to Li-ion, and leave CR123A (which is why there is a 1amp limit on the LEDs). Of course, I'd be all over an AA only, low voltage head, because the rotary lends itself perfectly to that, since it doesn't really offer or focus on a high amount of lumens, but in a wide range of low settings.

Maybe doing the two screw holes for a stop/pocket clip will happen, and the replaceable boot would really make the rotary absolutely one of the most reliable lights available.

 

[elzilcho]

they are very close, the 119v has slightly more rosy Tint Duv
pic from here

Thank you, Jon, for the comparison, really helpful. I thought I'd made peace with skipping the 4500k in the HDS but that beamshot on the right looks verrrry nice.

Unrelated but still HDS: I was browsing the Tom Bihn site for a backpack and happened to notice they have good taste in flashlights.

Is that an HDS hiding in there? Why yes, yes it is. The full reveal is on the product page. (I have no affiliation, just giving credit for the photo.)

 

[jon_slider]

that beamshot on the right looks verrrry nice.

glad if it helps answer yout tint question
just to be clear, that beam shape is not from an HDS

this is what the beam shape and tint of my HDS Rotary w sw45k beam looks like:

 

[muichimon]

I got the color filter. It's fun to just put them over the bezel and get lights with different characteristics. I think they also have translucent diffusion filters, so I'll buy some when I find them.

 

[Beard Man]

The custom option from HDS right now has Nichia 219B 4500K and Nichia 519A 5200K.
Which of these two options would you all recommend?

 

[ilikeguns40]

219b 4500k is my choice

 

[jon_slider]

Nichia 219B 4500K and Nichia 519A 5200K.

519a has a larger hotspot and the tint is not as pink as the 219b. 519a is more efficient, the battery will have longer runtime.

The 519a is nicer if the primary use is during outdoor daylight adapted use, for example, looking into the engine bay of a car during daylight. Because the 519a tint and color are closer to daylight.

otoh, since my primary use is after dark, and my daytime use is indoors, I prefer the 219b.

 

[Mr. LED]

 

[Schokokeks]

View attachment 65779

Since I've been asking anyone who might have an opinion:

What are your thoughts on the 2xAA body? I kind of like the idea of it, but it seems a bit unwieldy, so I keep leaning towards the 16340 body, even though that's not really my favorite batter size.

 

[WarriorOfLight]

Since I've been asking anyone who might have an opinion:

What are your thoughts on the 2xAA body? I kind of like the idea of it, but it seems a bit unwieldy, so I keep leaning towards the 16340 body, even though that's not really my favorite batter size.

I did a compare long time ago:

Compare of length, 16340, 18650 and 2xAA Body (sorry length is metric)

Compare to Surefire Outdoorsman Flashlights

Usage of 2xAA HDS

I like the 2xAA Option, the only disadvantage may be the length. I use this body with Eneloop cells.
-- a few typos removed --

 

[Schokokeks]

I did a compare long time ago:

Compare of length, 16340, 18650 and 2xAA Body (sorry length is metric)

Compare to Surefire Outdoorsman Flashlights

Usage of 2xAA HDS

I like the 2xAA Option, the only disadvantage may be the length. I use this body with Eneloop cells.
-- a few typos removed --

Okay, so in the hand is doesn't look as goofy (measurement wise, it's about the size of an MD3, which feels nice in the hand).

Format wise, though, do you find yourself using the 2xAA often, or instead reaching for one of the smaller rotaries?

It seems like capped at 2-300 lumens, a 2xAA format makes sense, but then it also seems the rotary shines more as a smaller EDC carry light that runs are really low levels, and I'm not sure if a large baton format is the best for that (versus my MD3 with an M91BN and 2X18500 cells in the same package).

It seems the the rotary would really shine (PUN!) when you can slip it in the pocket.

I'm going to keep dreaming of a single AA ~120 lumen version, which I think would be the bee's knees. The compactness of the smaller rotaries, but all the advantages of running an eneloop.

 

[jon_slider]

advantages of running an eneloop

For me:
An advantage of Eneloop is that it retains its charge better than LiIon, if stored in a hot car during summer..

What other advantages can you think of, for running an Eneloop instead of LiIon?

 

[WarriorOfLight]

..., do you find yourself using the 2xAA often, or instead reaching for one of the smaller rotaries?

I like my 2xAA Rotary. At all I own only 3 or 4 Lights for 2xAA but I own tons of Eneloop AA cells.

 

[Mr. LED]

For me:
An advantage of Eneloop is that it retains its charge better than LiIon, if stored in a hot car during summer..

What other advantages can you think of, for running an Eneloop instead of LiIon?

I would not use rechargeable in the car, only primary lithium, they can take more heat and cold.

 

[Schokokeks]

For me:
An advantage of Eneloop is that it retains its charge better than LiIon, if stored in a hot car during summer..

What other advantages can you think of, for running an Eneloop instead of LiIon?

A few I can think of:
-AN ACTUALLY STANDARDIZED SIZE
-They have a significantly longer lifespan (which is why I don't use Eneloop Pros, either)
-They contain much less energy, which is good if something goes very wrong (say, and accident)
-There's no need to monitor battery states
-You don't have to worry about LVP and/or a protection circuit
-A random person is more familiar with them, in case someone unfamiliar ends up using my light
-They're insanely cheap on a per-charge basis
-I have lots of them already
-Great size format for anything that's low power

A more controversial point:
-People usually say Li-ion is the better choice in cold temperatures, but that's generally because they freeze some batteries and then measure them. In usage, I find that eneloops perform really well out in the cold, and I've seen USAGE tests that showed surprisingly similar performance. I don't know if they "warm up" quickly or what, but in use, they're great. So, despite what is "common knowledge," my personal experience in winter has been very satisfactory with eneloops.

Eneloops are just a great option of not having to think about your batteries, especially if things are going very wrong.

I know, I know. Everyone in this hobby insists that Li-ion cells are "barely more work," but I don't like making spreadsheets, I don't like using label makers, and I don't like monitoring things. I like a nice light I can pick up whenever, and just turn it on. Every time someone insists Li-ion cells are "just as easy," it comes with a big helping of asterisked statements. And, primary cells in 2024 are just silly wasteful. You can charge an eneloop, stick it in a drawer, and have a "good enough" level of light available for years.

And, of course, AA/AAA cells are used in literally trillions of devices, so the ubiquity of the cells is great. I've definitely swapped batteries from an unused remote or something to power a light during a task. And, on top of that, I can buy a 24-pack of AA and AAA eneloops, and power tons of lights AND remotes, etc. I have a few Li-ion flashlights, and it's already annoying how many different cells and chargers I have to support that. I have two small cases of a dozen AA and AAA eneloops on my desk. I have a whole shelf strewn with 16340, 18350, 18500, 18650, 21700, and 10440 cells..Of course, I have to have button tops, flat tops, protected, and unprotected of each size, as you NEVER KNOW what will work in what. The lack of standardization means when I get an Li-ion cell, I often end up having to buy a cell with it, or specially for it. That's wasteful and silly.

Essentially, if you're using a low power device, I don't see why you'd want to use a Li-ion cell. For high power applications, it makes sense. For a sub-200 lumen light that is focused on it's Zombie Apocalypse reliability, AA (eneloop) support seems like the perfect fit.


EDIT: I forgot the recycling aspect, too. Lithium, while theoretically able to be recycled, often isn't, and in a LOT of places, it can't be. Lithium polymer is becoming increasingly common, and that one is even more of a recycling headache. Meanwhile, NiMH batteries can be brought in with most e-waste, and will be recycled.