Thank you for the detailed information. There are many different types, so I don't know which type is appropriate... but I measured it with a vernier caliper and it was 1.6mm x 0.8mm, so I'll try to get one of the same size. I'm not sure if this is a part that an amateur can repair, but I'm the type of person who likes to try things myself, so I'll see what happens.The two parts on the picture you are pointing at with the "GUM tool" are capacitors.
Here some information about SMD capacitors: https://www.zxcompo.com/understanding-smd-capacitors-and-smd-ceramic-capacitors-all-key-information/
On that linked page some examples of SMD capacitors
At least mostly ceramic capacitors does not have printed the value on it. Resistors have this mostly directly or with colored rings.
Here an example of resistors (recangle and round)
SMD parts are somehow not easy due to the fact they are very small. If you are extremely small than you only have very small parts with nothing on in. At least I am not able to read this stuff anymore ....
If you are skilled I would carefully unsolder the resistor you guessing is faulty and check it with measuring the resistance.
HDS Systems #23
- Thread starter Hogokansatsukan
- Start date
Help Support CPF:
Help Support Candle Power Flashlight Forum
That's almost certainly an 0603 capacitor. And by determining the physical size, you've now narrowed down your options for determining the correct part to a few hundred different possible capacitance values (the voltage rating in this application is likely inconsequential). Not outside the capabilities of an amateur to repair, but certainly not what I'd consider a "novice-friendly" activity.
Thank you for the advice. It was half broken from the start, so I was optimistic that I'd be lucky if I could repair it, but when I checked the back, I found that there were still small parts. I searched for the markings on the center part, but I couldn't find anything. The small part on the bottom right is printed with 380, but I wonder if it's a resistor? I'll try to look for this small part for now.
Last edited:
Schokokeks
Enlightened
It’s not even vaporware LOL, it’s just the wishes of a few members that HDS make a 14500 body…
Schokokeks
Enlightened
Way to not follow the thread, buddy. 😛
Hogo already confirmed they're working on it, and will use adapters so it will take a range of battery sizes!
Hogo mentioned a 18500 body.
This is what he mentioned, and it’s a few Henry years down the road, so I wouldn’t get any hopes high. The whole light would have to be redesigned, as he also mentioned in another post that the parts wouldn’t LEGO.
As much as I’d like to see a new HDS light, I don’t think about it because it will take too long to happen.
Schokokeks
Enlightened
And, we've now come full circle to my comment.
Glad to see we agree 😀 hahaha
(Happy Labor Day, man!)
The difference between the old and new laser-engraved models is that the letters on the older models are small but wide and deeply engraved. The newer models have larger but thinner letters. They are also engraved, but they are raised with a burnt-like soot effect. The black bezel is slightly different from the silver bezel; rather than being deeply engraved, the black nitride finish has discolored only where the letters are, creating a marking effect.
Which type of engraving do you prefer?
Which type of engraving do you prefer?
Just fyi, your print is on the second image from the bottom lol. Anyways, I like final images the best, I like to see the start stop points of the engraving.
I really dislike the welded look of the middle pictures.
I really dislike the welded look of the middle pictures.
WarriorOfLight
Flashlight Enthusiast
Interesting to know the Rotary uses a ATtiny24A with 2k program memory.
The easiest way to shift a current Rotary to a Clicky / Rotary would could have been the usage of the ATtiny85 or Attiny84A with 8k program memory size. But the flashlight would than not Support NiMH and AA Primaries.... But I do bot know what features of the ATtiny24A are in use...
I finally ordered the EDC Rotary!
I spent a lot of time looking for a great flashlight, mostly getting recommendations from you guys, my flashlight community, and my Korean friends.
It was a bit expensive for me, but I'm planning to use it forever, so it's totally worth it.
Here are the specs I picked
: EDC Rotary
NA45, Nichia 519A, black bezel, sapphire with anti-reflective coatings, 123 battery compartment, and a flush button.
The total was $497, not including shipping!
I spent a lot of time looking for a great flashlight, mostly getting recommendations from you guys, my flashlight community, and my Korean friends.
It was a bit expensive for me, but I'm planning to use it forever, so it's totally worth it.
Here are the specs I picked
: EDC Rotary
NA45, Nichia 519A, black bezel, sapphire with anti-reflective coatings, 123 battery compartment, and a flush button.
The total was $497, not including shipping!
Very good choice! Please tell about your impressions when you get it in your hands 🙂
I continue to monitor the auto-off option on the latest HDS firmware (I'm not sure if it's the last one, maybe the second to last one). Unfortunately, I did not record the time of the decrease of each level. About 10 hours passed and it seems to have dropped to level 1. I wonder if it will go out or will sit at level 1 until someone remembers about it?
Yesterday while I was going to eat, it finally went out. I started it again last night, now exactly 12 hours passed 15 minutes ago, it's still sitting at level 1, I continue to observe
So, I slept through the shutdown again, it seems to be somewhere between 12 and 16 hours, lol
Added observations of the time of the first part of the blackout from level 24 to 16 again
0, 6, 18, 38, 72, 122, 198, 305, 458 sec
24, 23, 22, 21, 20, 19, 18, 17, 16 level
Last edited:
Awesome, thanks!
I'm really looking forward to getting my hands on it. Once I do, I plan on posting on various flashlight forums and communities to show everyone just how incredible this flashlight is.
If I'm reading this right, 8 minutes total to step down from level 24 through level 16?
Yeah, something like that, + 10 minutes delay before the darkening starts. I'll double check later with the second Rotary, right now I'm trying to figure out how to use the UPS website to get a good shipping price
Im wondering if they do what airlines do for premium pricing..
It certainly looks like a weld. I prefer a deep, solid laser marking, as a thin marking will likely wear off and become thinner.
