HDS Systems EDC #14

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nbp

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Well, it is your money, and your light, so you have to do what you have to do to feel good about it.

However, my general advice to people who buy lights and find little picky things is to just use the light for a few days for what it was meant for: lighting stuff up. I suspect after a couple days, that some of those things will fade into insignificance. The bit of dust will not affect the beam, and in all reality, with the exception of white wall hunting, the slightly off-center emitter probably won't be noticed either. The one thing that does surprise me a bit is the gash as you called it. I would be curious to see a picture of that, as I have not had such things on any of my HDS lights.

As far as extras, there really aren't any. HDS lights come in baggies, and with a battery in them. Not really much when it comes to flashy accessories. It'll probably be awhile before you need to swap o-rings though, under normal use. I wouldn't worry at this point.
 

Eric Isaacson

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I doubt the "gash" is really a gash. My guess is it is where the wire is connected to the rotary dial, this is on all rotaries but looks odd the first one time you see it
 

Lighteous

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So what's the general consensus on the Rotary's tint? Is it PURE white or blue/green. If I get one it's got to be either white like my 140GT or neutral/warm tint. I'm trying to wait on the new High CRI but have "the itch" if you know what I mean. :naughty:

The tint of my Rotary is more of a pure white. There's not a hint of green.
 

flatline

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As far as extras, there really aren't any. HDS lights come in baggies, and with a battery in them. Not really much when it comes to flashy accessories. It'll probably be awhile before you need to swap o-rings though, under normal use. I wouldn't worry at this point.

Manual includes the details on all the O-rings. It's easy to order them on-line and they're so cheap that you'll spend more on the postage than you will the actual o-rings unless you get lots of spares (personally, I got 2 spares for each O-ring on my Clicky just because).

--flatline
 

TyJo

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I doubt the "gash" is really a gash. My guess is it is where the wire is connected to the rotary dial, this is on all rotaries but looks odd the first one time you see it
I agree. I think it is a small hole that allows the light to be serviced if needed. My rotary has one.
 

balloonshark

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Thanks for your replies everyone. I will try and use the light for a couple of days as I really do like the UI.

Here is a picture of the small 'gash' on the rotary knob. Hopefully the pic is clear enough. My camera doesn't like black objects.




hdslight014.jpg
hdslight014.jpg
hdslight014.jpg
 

r_x

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All rotaries have that gash. It has something to do with the disassembly of the rotary knob if I recall correctly. Someone much earlier in the thread disassembled their rotary and I'm pretty sure the gash was the key to removing the knob.


Thanks for your replies everyone. I will try and use the light for a couple of days as I really do like the UI.

Here is a picture of the small 'gash' on the rotary knob. Hopefully the pic is clear enough. My camera doesn't like black objects.




hdslight014.jpg
hdslight014.jpg
hdslight014.jpg
 

balloonshark

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Thanks for your help! It's a relief to hear that the hole is normal.

Cheers

Edit: What's the best way to clean the body of the light? It feels a bit gritty/dusty and looks like tiny aluminum bits are in the knurling. bondr006's looks much cleaner and shiny compared to mine.
 
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jimmy1970

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I must admit that I'm blown away by the sheer output of the Rotary 200/Tactical 200 lights - all my stock has perfectly centred emitters and anno. My own personal Tactical 200 makes my old Ra Clicky 140 GT look dim in comparison!! - Fantastic white tint too with the XP-G emitters.

They were definately worth the wait.:thumbsup:

James....:)
 

the.Mtn.Man

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Edit: What's the best way to clean the body of the light? It feels a bit gritty/dusty and looks like tiny aluminum bits are in the knurling. bondr006's looks much cleaner and shiny compared to mine.

Since the light is submersible, cleaning it with running water and mild soap would do the job. In my case, when I'm washing dishes I'll take my Clicky and swish it around in the soapy water, wipe it down with the dishrag, and then give it a rinse. Seems to do the job.
 

Bucky

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Eric and TyJo are correct. That is a service hole that is on all rotarys.

Here is mine....

DSC02265.jpg

Not sure if it was intentional or not, but that service hole also serves as a handy reference point. On mine, if you turn the tailcap until the screw slightly passes the service hole, it's right at the preset of 13 lumens.
 

Blades

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Not sure if it was intentional or not, but that service hole also serves as a handy reference point. On mine, if you turn the tailcap until the screw slightly passes the service hole, it's right at the preset of 13 lumens.

That is good to know. Thanks.
 

TyJo

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Any one else ready for HDS Systems EDC #15? :sssh:
I am. I think it isn't necassary to make new threads because of some updates but I would still prefer a new thread. Maybe make number 15 when the CRI is released? Anyone ask about the high CRI recently (release date updates, what the max output will be, etc.)?
 

:)>

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I must admit that I'm blown away by the sheer output of the Rotary 200/Tactical 200 lights - all my stock has perfectly centred emitters and anno. My own personal Tactical 200 makes my old Ra Clicky 140 GT look dim in comparison!! - Fantastic white tint too with the XP-G emitters.

They were definately worth the wait.:thumbsup:

James....:)

Mine too... I was comparing the 140GT to my Rotary today and the rotary is clearly superior in the output department.

The tint on my Rotary is a tad cooler than my 140GT and does not have a hint of yellow, purple, green, brown or blue... I am very satisfied...

...and, oh yeah, clean OT with a tooth brush under running water.
 

mrlysle

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I posted a few pics back in post #1514, and someone was asking about the big gap between the reflector and emitter. (I questioned it myself when I took the pictures) So I emailed Henry, and sent him a couple of the pics to see what he had to say. So just for anyone that might be wondering, Henry told me the relationship between the reflector and the xp-g was correct, and normal. That was all I needed to hear! Oh, and as far as cleaning my lights, I like and keep several microfiber cloths just for cleaning. They really get down in the little nooks and crannies well. Sometimes I'll just use one damp, with water, or if I feel it like it's a little grimy or oily, or whatever, I use 90% isopropyl alcohol. I pick up a bottle at Walmart evry once in awhile just for flashlight use.
 

balloonshark

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Thanks for the tips on cleaning the light. I tried a micro fiber cloth as well as running it underwater and using a toothbrush and Dawn with a quick rinse afterwords. So that leads to my next question. Is it normal to see sparkly glitter like flecks in the cuts of the knurling? Do they anodize after the knurling process or before?

The manual says from off, click, press-hold and release turns on your flashlight to preset level A. Should the light stay on in A after pressing the combo mentioned? Mine will flash the B preset from the click and then flash the A preset during the press-hold and release. For the record I enabled customization and then changed D from emergency strobe to tactical strobe. I also enabled momentary and then disabled customization.

One more question. One of the rows of the brightness level charts in the manual starts with (level 24) 238 lumens and the other 200. Does this mean if I have burst enabled it is 238 lumens for level 24 and this is the chart I should be using?

Sorry for all the questions. I really like the light so far. While doing a ceiling bounce it's close to the same brightness of the Eagletac P20A2 MkII XM-L. The beam also looks more white to me. Customizing the light was fairly easy which was a pleasant surprise. Overall I'm very happy with the rotary.
 
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