HDS HDS Systems EDC #14

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TyJo

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The manual says from off, click, press-hold and release turns on your flashlight to preset level A. Should the light stay on in A after pressing the combo mentioned? Mine will flash the B preset from the click and then flash the A preset during the press-hold and release. For the record I enabled customization and then changed D from emergency strobe to tactical strobe. I also enabled momentary and then disabled customization.
If momentary is enabled, I believe you only have your turn on preset level directly accessible from off (turn on preset is B from the factory). If you want 2 presets available directly from off (preset A and turn on preset) then you will have to disable momentary.
One of the rows of the brightness level charts in the manual starts with (level 24) 238 lumens and the other 200. Does this mean if I have burst enabled it is 238 lumens for level 24 and this is the chart I should be using?
From my understanding the 238 lumen models have not been produced yet, you should use the 200 chart. From my understanding the max level on the 200 rotary and clicky is 200 lumens, if burst is enabled they will drop down to 141 lumens after 40 seconds.
 
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00Moonshine

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Just a change of pace from the "How do you wash your flashlight?" slant this thread was taking. :D
 
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balloonshark

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If momentary is enabled, I believe you only have your turn on preset level directly accessible from off (turn on preset is B from the factory). If you want 2 presets available directly from off (preset A and turn on preset) then you will have to disable momentary.
Bingo! You are correct. I disabled momentary and now I have access to A from off :).

From my understanding the 238 lumen models have not been produced yet, you should use the 200 chart. From my understanding the max level on the 200 rotary and clicky is 200 lumens, if burst is enabled they will drop down to 141 lumens after 40 seconds.
Thanks. I had no idea that a 238 lumen model was in the works.
 
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TyJo

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Toons

Toons

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From my understanding the 238 lumen models have not been produced yet, you should use the 200 chart. From my understanding the max level on the 200 rotary and clicky is 200 lumens, if burst is enabled they will drop down to 141 lumens after 40 seconds.
This post got me to wondering....
I have a new 170 Executive and was curious which chart applied to this light. I noticed in the manual in the paragraph just before the Lumens output chart that Henry states "your flashlight includes up to 24 internal brightness levels, depending on model." I counted and I have 23 levels with the 23rd corresponding to 168 lumens in the second chart. Otherwise nowhere on the two charts does it matchup with a 170 Lumen output. So I conclude that the second chart is the one that I should use for reference on a 170 Executive or Tactical light. Correct? Or would someone like to enlighten me. :D
Thanks anyone. :thumbsup: Toons
 
think2x

think2x

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This post got me to wondering....
I have a new 170 Executive and was curious which chart applied to this light. I noticed in the manual in the paragraph just before the Lumens output chart that Henry states "your flashlight includes up to 24 internal brightness levels, depending on model." I counted and I have 23 levels with the 23rd corresponding to 168 lumens in the second chart. Otherwise nowhere on the two charts does it matchup with a 170 Lumen output. So I conclude that the second chart is the one that I should use for reference on a 170 Executive or Tactical light. Correct? Or would someone like to enlighten me. :D
Thanks anyone. :thumbsup: Toons
That sounds right to me. My 140GT has one more level than my High CRI. I just spent yesterday setting them up the way I want and learning EVERYTHING about them I could.
 
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Toons

Toons

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That sound right to me. My 140GT has one more level than my High CRI. I just spent yesterday setting them up the way I want and learning EVERYTHING about them I could.
Cool, Thanks,
Believe it or not I used to own this lights great granddaddy the Arc 4+. I'm a slow learner.... :shrug:
 
al93535

al93535

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I have the 170 executive, I also have been customizing it to my liking. I have a question about burst. I enabled it because I think it's a good option for battery life. I tried to catch the step down, and even watching the beam I cannot see it. Are the newer models 10 or 40 seconds before the step? I'm going to have to time it and watch carefully.

I appreciate any help!! Thanks!
 
pjandyho

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Newer models are 40 sec for both clicky as well as rotary. My rotary came with burst disabled instead of enabled and I have to get into the customization program to change it. Not sure if burst has been changed to the default setting on subsequent productions.
 
al93535

al93535

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I thought it was 40 seconds. I just can't see the step down. Hummmmm, I enabled it in the options menu and it performed the ramp from dim to bright confirming it was enabled. Maybe it's easier to see the step outside. How noticeable should it be?
 
pjandyho

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I thought it was 40 seconds. I just can't see the step down. Hummmmm, I enabled it in the options menu and it performed the ramp from dim to bright confirming it was enabled. Maybe it's easier to see the step outside. How noticeable should it be?

If you really want to see it, get your watch and turn on the light but don't stare at the beam until when 40 seconds is almost up. You should see it cutting down. I sometimes don't notice the light cutting down in level because it really is very hard to notice.
 
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TyJo

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I thought it was 40 seconds. I just can't see the step down. Hummmmm, I enabled it in the options menu and it performed the ramp from dim to bright confirming it was enabled. Maybe it's easier to see the step outside. How noticeable should it be?
Ceiling bounce the light in a pitch black room and use the watch suggestion. Start looking at 35 seconds, you will see it step down.
 
stoli67

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Does anyone know if there is a Bezel out there with trit slots that will fit an RA clicky?

I bought one from oveready but it was not right..... and the slots were too small to fit 5mm long trits....
 
calipsoii

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I bought one from oveready but it was not right..... and the slots were too small to fit 5mm long trits....

From the sounds of it, you bought what was left of Oveready's stock of the old Novatac/early HDS bezels. I believe they were called the PEU bezel. Might still be able to sell them to someone around here with a Novatac.
 
stoli67

stoli67

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Yes I suspect that you r right...

Still I am sure there is a market for new version RA clicky / rotary trit bezels!
 
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Girryn

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What the heck is this thread doing on page 4...
 
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Chris201W

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I received my Rotary 200 yesterday. I ordered it last Wednesday, the 20th, so it appears Henry has caught up on Rotary orders. I thought I would post some first impressions, and a few photos.

Overall, I like the light a lot. I went with the stainless steel bezel and flush button. The stainless bezel is quite attractive on an otherwise all-black light. Part of me is wishing I went with the tactical button, as the flush is a little more difficult to press than I'd like. I have small fingers, and I still need to use the tip of my thumb to get a good click. I definitely cannot press it with the pad of my thumb. One alternative is to use my thumb knuckle in a cigar grip. It's a minor issue, and I do like that there isn't a button sticking out while the light is in my pocket.

Fit and finish on the light are excellent. Flawless anodizing and perfectly centered emitter. Also, no fingerprints or dust on the reflector or lens, as some others have reported. The rotary control has the perfect amount of resistance. It's very stiff and instills a lot of confidence in me that it's sturdy, but not a problem to turn at all with one or two hands.

The light has a nice beam. Very bright hotspot with a gradual transition to spillbeam. My light has a cooler tint, with a little bit of purple that I can detect when I turn the light on during the day or compare it with an incandescent or a more neutral LED. I'm not a tint fanatic, though, so I don't think it will bother me when I'm using the light.

My beam has a definite ring around the periphery of the spillbeam. It's painfully obvious when I shine the light at a white wall from two feet away, but becomes less obvious the farther away I am from my target. Like the cooler tint, I wish it wasn't there, but it's not a deal breaker.

I posted a beamshot of the Rotary next to a shot of a Surefire L4 that I bought in 2008 (I have no idea how different the newer L4s are). This particular L4 has about as perfect a beam shape and tint as I could ask for, so I was initially disappointed with the HDS beam in comparison. When viewed by itself, though, the Rotary has a very good, useful beam..

Here are some photos:

griptilianhdscrop.jpg


The Rotary next to a full-size Griptilian, to show it's size. For pocket carry, I tied some gutted parachord in a constrictor knot around the body of the light, and attached a Tec Accessories P7 clip. This setup keeps the light out of the bottom of my pocket and is still discreet enough for business casual attire at work.

img1709rw.jpg


With an assortment of other lights and knives. The Rotary is smaller, brighter, and more versatile than either of these two lights.

beamshots.png


These were taken with the lights approximated 5 feet from the wall. The Rotary isn't quite as smooth or white as the L4, but it's noticeably brighter.
 
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