HDS Systems EDC # 16

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Does anyone use AW IMR 16340's vs. the protected RCR 123s in their HDS? I know that the HDS won't get brighter with rechargeables like most other lights but I have another 1 cell 123 light that does. I have heard good things about the AW IMR's being used in the other light and if I am going to get into rechargeables, I would prefer to use the same for both lights.

I've used IMR16340's in my 200 Rotary. They work, but I haven't been game enough to trust the built-in voltage protection yet. I have heard that if you put a partially charged battery into the light, it gets tricked into thinking its running a CR123A, and will not kick in the voltage protection when required. At one stage I ran the battery in it down low enough for my ZTS tester to show it was at 10% or less. Not sure when the protection is meant to kick in though.
 
I have heard that if you put a partially charged battery into the light, it gets tricked into thinking its running a CR123A, and will not kick in the voltage protection when required.

This is an excellent point and this is true for many lights that have a wide input voltage range. I only put fully charged cells into my lights - that way I am confident that I won't trick the voltage protection algorithm.
 
I've used IMR16340's in my 200 Rotary. They work, but I haven't been game enough to trust the built-in voltage protection yet. I have heard that if you put a partially charged battery into the light, it gets tricked into thinking its running a CR123A, and will not kick in the voltage protection when required. At one stage I ran the battery in it down low enough for my ZTS tester to show it was at 10% or less. Not sure when the protection is meant to kick in though.

This is an excellent point and this is true for many lights that have a wide input voltage range. I only put fully charged cells into my lights - that way I am confident that I won't trick the voltage protection algorithm.

I think the newer HDS lights are different. The instructions say that once you put a RCR in the light and the light is set to RCR, it will assume any batteries used are RCR. The light has to be manually reset to recognize CR123.
 
My rotary200 working fine with aw icr battery..I can't recall the last voltage reading it's around +3V after the protected circuit kick in..that's maybe why they recomand imr for further runtime...this has been covered years ago I think..
 
Hi,
don't know if it's been pointed before but for those looking for a cheap alternative to the SF beamshaper, the nitecore nfd25 works fine on the HDS's

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I received my second HDS yesterday. A rotary 140 high cri with a nichia 219. what a beautiful tint and beam. And honestly, compared to my L10 nichia with 14500, it's more powerful so i think that the 140 lumen are a little underrated.

I have two questions for you :

- what's the purpose of the small hole on the tail cap ?
- why the head of a rotary can't work on a clicky tail ?

Thanks.

Regards,
Quentin.
 
What about parasitic drain in these new HDS? I received my Custom rotary high CRI today, and noticed the included Duracell battery was somewhat depleted (2,92V). Should I expect a heavier parasitic drain in the rotary, or is it the result of some tests by manufacturer or seller?
 
- what's the purpose of the small hole on the tail cap ?
I think that is used to open up the rotary tailcap. Best left to the factory, I think.

- why the head of a rotary can't work on a clicky tail ?
The circuitry is different - the rotary head receives signals from the tailcap to tell it the position of the rotary control.
 
What about parasitic drain in these new HDS? I received my Custom rotary high CRI today, and noticed the included Duracell battery was somewhat depleted (2,92V). Should I expect a heavier parasitic drain in the rotary, or is it the result of some tests by manufacturer or seller?

I think the reduced voltage of your CR123 is from Henry testing the light. 🙂
 
I think that is used to open up the rotary tailcap. Best left to the factory, I think.


The circuitry is different - the rotary head receives signals from the tailcap to tell it the position of the rotary control.

Thanks. It was just curiosity.
Regards,
 
Hi,
don't know if it's been pointed before but for those looking for a cheap alternative to the SF beamshaper, the nitecore nfd25 works fine on the HDS's
For an even cheaper solution, a cap from many brands of bottled water also work.

3fisj.jpg
 
I received my second HDS yesterday. A rotary 140 high cri with a nichia 219. what a beautiful tint and beam. And honestly, compared to my L10 nichia with 14500, it's more powerful so i think that the 140 lumen are a little underrated.
More likely the L10 is overrated. Each HDS light is individually tuned after assembly to output the advertised lumens.
 
What about parasitic drain in these new HDS? I received my Custom rotary high CRI today, and noticed the included Duracell battery was somewhat depleted (2,92V). Should I expect a heavier parasitic drain in the rotary, or is it the result of some tests by manufacturer or seller?
As far as I know, the parasitic drain in HDS lights remains negligible. You can't really test that using the supplied battery because you don't know what the state of the cell was before shipping.
 
I just received a 200lm Clicky from the Marketplace. This is not my first HDS, and I've owned many programable lights. I admit I was lost trying to get it set up... I called the good folks at HDS in Arizona, and 23 minutes later we had it set up exactly the way I wanted. A huge THANK YOU for taking the time out of your day. Wonderful support and customer service!!! 🙂 (Beautiful pure white tint, btw...)
 
I have just received my repaired Rotary 200 back from Henry after some sterling warranty work turnaround. When it came back i was setting it back up again to how i have my other HDS lights and i am sure i had programmed a particular setting into the UI.

Basically if the light is already switched on and i press the tailcap down again i want the tactical strobe setting to come on. I have this working no probs on my 2 tactical HDS clicky lights, to recap if i press and hold WHILST the light is already on i want the strobe.

Can anybody help?

I am very sure i managed to programme the Rotary this way before i sent it off.
 
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