HDS Systems EDC # 18

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Pöbel

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happend to me two times. Got replacement rubber and has not happend again ever since. Probably new rubber material which does not crack anymore :)
 

erep

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I have an HDS XP-L, cerakote orange one, beautiful and works flawlessly. The LED is a bit off-center and I was wondering if it's hard to properly center the emitter and what the different steps would be.

It's more of an aesthetic matter, the beam is very nice.

Thanks.
 

AndrwTNT

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That leaves me with the only light I need...a executive clickie that Vinh swapped the xp-l for a 5000k 90+ cri 219b that has a beam so beautiful it came back to me with a fiat lux card! I just can't see needing another light.
That sounds amazing!
 

Reimball

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How often does the rubber button cover crack? I am considering an HDS purchase, but I imagine this is one of the first parts to go. Has there ever been a metal button cover rather than rubber ?

I don't post often but I have some first hand experience with this one.

I have a 5 and a half year old Clicky with the original flush rubber button. It is currently starting to show some surface cracks but I do not see any signs of this on the bottom side of the button. It is 100% functional and not showing any signs of what I would consider "failing". I am currently only even considering ordering a new button because I am making another order from Henry.

I also need to throw in my support for Henry. In my experiance he has been great. Email responses come within a day and the fact that you are dealing directly with Henry is pretty cool. It's easy to get anxious once you have placed an order and are waiting for a light. I know I did with previous orders but the wait was well worth it. The lights I have are exceptionally engineered and I don't have any regrets.

I don't have many real lights and that is because the couple of HDS light I have are that good. I love to look and get tempted by the forums but i have a hard time justifying getting something else.
 

trojansteel

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I don't post often but I have some first hand experience with this one.

I have a 5 and a half year old Clicky with the original flush rubber button. It is currently starting to show some surface cracks but I do not see any signs of this on the bottom side of the button. It is 100% functional and not showing any signs of what I would consider "failing". I am currently only even considering ordering a new button because I am making another order from Henry.

I also need to throw in my support for Henry. In my experiance he has been great. Email responses come within a day and the fact that you are dealing directly with Henry is pretty cool. It's easy to get anxious once you have placed an order and are waiting for a light. I know I did with previous orders but the wait was well worth it. The lights I have are exceptionally engineered and I don't have any regrets.

I don't have many real lights and that is because the couple of HDS light I have are that good. I love to look and get tempted by the forums but i have a hard time justifying getting something else.

Thank you for sharing your experience !
 

kaichu dento

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How often does the rubber button cover crack? I am considering an HDS purchase, but I imagine this is one of the first parts to go. Has there ever been a metal button cover rather than rubber ?
I've never had it happen in the 7 or so years I've been buying them, but then I always lose or sell them so the oldest one I have now is still only a couple years old. Anyway, I've heard of it, but haven't seen it.


Should buy a McGizmo from Don in the meantime and have it on their doorstep in less than a week
As an owner of both I stand by my original statement. If you can't wait for your HDS buy a used one. McGizmo is a different light altogether.
 

ven

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gizmo's are very nice, but the HDS for me is just as good.................if not better. The UI on the rotary for example is awesome, both well made,solid lights to last a life time. I would struggle picking being honest, but the HDS is a must imho. Mine thanks to Sean has a 4000k xp-l HI so great tint and good output with programmable driver, so for a gizmo its perfect for me as i like the flexibility of mode options(and more output when needed)

Neither is a replacement for the other, as is common to say "get both" well if there was ever a couple of lights to say that, its these two!!(all subjective of course)
 

Tre_Asay

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gizmo's are very nice, but the HDS for me is just as good.................if not better. The UI on the rotary for example is awesome, both well made,solid lights to last a life time. I would struggle picking being honest, but the HDS is a must imho. Mine thanks to Sean has a 4000k xp-l HI so great tint and good output with programmable driver, so for a gizmo its perfect for me as i like the flexibility of mode options(and more output when needed)

Neither is a replacement for the other, as is common to say "get both" well if there was ever a couple of lights to say that, its these

I almost got a mcgizmo but I wanted the UI of the HDS rotary.
 

ven

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I almost got a mcgizmo but I wanted the UI of the HDS rotary.


Both are amazing in their own ways.........

The rotary design is amazing...............i love my HDS , and thanks to Jon for introducing me and made it an amazing gift.

Gift aside(which makes it extra special) so just on the light, the size/form/UI/tint...........everything and yes even the clip! i like a lot.
 

nbp

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How do you even obtain one? I've looked and can't seem to find a way to purchase one.

This thread will help you out.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...mo-Available-Lights-Pricing-and-Ordering-Info

But this is an HDS thread so let's keep on topic. The HDS/McG topic is very popular, and maybe more relevant than ever with McG's new programmable HIVE driver, so maybe we can shift it to this classic thread:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?283906-Dare-to-compare-Ra-Clicky-vs-McGizmo-Haiku
 

trojansteel

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I'm a bit confused about the rotary operation. Hypothetically, If you double click to 50% (I've never used an HDS, but I'm assuming you could program double to 50%) while the rotary is set to #1, what happens when you turn the rotary slightly? Does it quickly drop to that setting? I guess I'm wondering how the rotary interacts with the clicky.
 

emarkd

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Think of the rotary position as one of the options, which most folks keep programmed at setting B (single click from off). Once you double click you're no longer on setting B, so the light doesn't care what the rotary dial position is at. In other words, nothing happens when you turn the dial after double clicking. Once you turn it off and back on to B then it matters again, but not before.

You could also reprogram it so that the rotary position isn't in any of the presets and then the light would never care what the dial is set at
 
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blueo8

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I am having trouble locating anybistruction on the pre sets of the rotaries. I have always had clickiesband can't make sense of the rotary's instructions.
How do you access A,B,C and D.
On the clickies it was:
Click=B
Double click from on=C
Triple click from on=D
Click press hold from on for A
Can rotary be made to have the rotary setting be the triple click setting only and be off for the other modes?
 

blueo8

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Why does the rotary still go through the strobe and highest setting and then go back to the rotary setting when I twist after a double click?
Think of the rotary position as one of the options, which most folks keep programmed at setting B (single click from off). Once you double click you're no longer on setting B, so the light doesn't care what the rotary dial position is at. In other words, nothing happens when you turn the dial after double clicking. Once you turn it off and back on to B then it matters again, but not before.

You could also reprogram it so that the rotary position isn't in any of the presets and then the light would never care what the dial is set at
 

emarkd

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The rotary basically works just like the clicky (as I understand it; I don't have a clicky) except that there's an extra setting for the rotary position. So the basic ui is the same - short click for B, hold from on for A, double click for C, triple click for D. It comes factory default with rotary position programmed into B but you can change it if you want.

As for the strobe on the rotary question, I guess you've got a Tactical Rotary model. Mine isn't that and I really don't know much about it.
 

trojansteel

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Think of the rotary position as one of the options, which most folks keep programmed at setting B (single click from off). Once you double click you're no longer on setting B, so the light doesn't care what the rotary dial position is at. In other words, nothing happens when you turn the dial after double clicking. Once you turn it off and back on to B then it matters again, but not before.

You could also reprogram it so that the rotary position isn't in any of the presets and then the light would never care what the dial is set at

Thank you!
 
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